range rover wont start

hi have a 1989 3.5 v8
it wasnt running very well felt sluggish then just cut out and wouldnt start .
have replaced roter arm/dizzy cap/plugs/leads and even mass flow .
getting a spark at plugs and getting fuel,but it wont start.
it is just turning and not even trying to start .
any help/advice please

You have got the rotor arm fitted correctly haven't you?

does it not only go on one way ???????
i am getting a spark at the plugs
it has started once since i changed everything then died,was told to try the mass flow,but changed that and still nothing

Are you sure you are getting fuel into cylinders?

when i took the plugs out to check for a spark they were wet with fuel
so yes there is fuel getting to cylinders

Have you tried?

Take the dizzy cap off and see if the rotor arms returns after you twist it clockwise, it should feel springy.
If not bob weights have siezed probably at the out position.

Don't forget you may have to take the plugs out and dry them off and remove the pump relay under the drivers seat, the one nearest to the gearbox , crank to clear the fuel from the system.
Replace the plugs and relay and try again, keep it cranking and see if it starts.

Ignition leads in correct order?
Timing?
Water in the fuel?
Bad coil?

When you crank, does it even promise to start?

when it cranks every now and again it sounds like it wants to start but mostly just spins.
there are no points in the dizzy,which i can set. it looks like an 8 point star that spins round

That's the gubbin that the electronic ignition uses to work out when to spark.

Doesn't spin by hand, does it? Cos if it does it's not in right....

no it wont spin by hand

Not unknown for the timing to slip, sometimes the nylon teeth on the spockets wear, if you have a timing light connect this to No1 spark plug lead and see when it fires, it should be around the TDC mark on the crank pulley. If you dont have a timing light, mark the distributor location, loosen the clamp bolt and turn distributor slowly whilst someone else cranks the engine, if it fires up then the timing has shifted. Replace timing chain and sprockets and use a genuine LR gasket for the timing cover, some aftermarket ones fit poorly and cause leaks. Let us know how you get on

tried moving distributer at time someone has been cranking it still nowt

Seems as though you have tried most things, are you getting fuel to all cylinders? If you take each spark plug out in turn they should be wet if it's not starting. If all spark plugs are sparking then this would indicate that the ignition side is sound, do you know anyone with a similar vehicle so you could swap out your ECU from under the drivers seat, may be a problem with that. I would still try a timing light to be sure that your timing is set right.

Must be a virus
After reading your thread mine is doing the same thing.

After all my tests I down to water coolant sensor, Realy for fuel return valve and after that a big hammer.

Hope you have better luck, my car is good condition and drives well but will not start in the mornings. Crank, crank, crank, with the odd splutter and usually just before the battery gives up she fires and runs perfectly for the rest of the day.

Keep you informed if I find out what it is.

Is the cold start valve running all the time? Try unplugging it and see if it starts any better like that.

Pete-M said:

Is the cold start valve running all the time? Try unplugging it and see if it starts any better like that.

Click to expand...

it will need the cold start to first start
if i ever get it started then i will unplug it to see if it runs any better

sedgebank said:

it will need the cold start to first start

Click to expand...

Possibly not if it's flooding....

Have you got it going yet ?

SOunds very much like a prob i had, Bob weights and springs had come loose and when i checked for the spring action it became even looser.

The pics show how much the rotor arm moved and the shaft also went up and down, just make sure it's sitting correctly. You've also got the same set up as i have, Reluctor??

Sorry to hear you still have problems

Great advice from members so far......Let us know how you get on
I had a similar problem with my 89 Classic
Mine were
Crank until you almost flatten battery and she will fire, but mine would run fine all day afterwards. ( Plugs would be soked with fuel )
The fault was the coolant temperature sensor under the top hose, second sensor in from front of car, If this sensor fails the engine will not start, you may even see green gunge in the socket and plug where coolant has leaked through the sensor. They are cheap from Land Rover and are worthwhile changing. If you have a 200ohm resistor and push it into the socket you can
fool the engine into starting. It may take a few cranks with a good battery to get the crud out of the cylinder heads though.

A few points that may help to find the problem with non starters
As advised to me by forum members when I have had problems
Petrol not spoilt etc.
If you have a good spark at the plugs and fuel and the correct timing and the sensors are correct then it should try to start.
If no or poor spark check for genuine ignition spares, re-check all spark plug leads are pushed fully home.
If you have a non genuine rotor arm these are known to fail and cause problems... poor spark when you need it
Loose connections on coil and ballast resistor, shorting capacitor, disconnect capacitor while you test.
Check your rotor arm has Lucas stamped on it, if not its not genuine acording to my LR garage

If you have taken the distributor out remeber that you can have it 180 degrees out.
Incorrect reluctor coil setting will give you problems
Bob weights and springs stuck or fallen off, Twist rotor arm clockwise and it should spring back. If not look at weights and springs.
If you pull the rotor when it's stuck on the shaft you will dislodge or break the plastic retainer, check as the pictures obove.
Check all hoses for air leaks to and from plenum chaber etc.
Check if you have one, the flapper in the MAF has not stuck, Remove hose between air filter and MAF and carefully push the flapper backwards if it moves easily it's not stuck. Mine was full of muddy deposit.
Replace hose and remove air filter while you try to start.
Clean or replace the flame trap/breather on top of LH rocker cover, looking from front and ensure no air leaks, if you have leaks it probably wont start if it does it will be very lumpy.
Don't touch the accelerator while you try to start it should not need any extra fuel while starting.
One strange tip but it has worked for me .. From America
Turn off negative breaker next to battery, have a cup of tea and return an hour or so later then re try. I don't know why but I think this clears the ECU somehow. I may work with any drink
I'm no mechanic but the advice given to me my the forum members has worked so far

I hope this helps.