Range rover p38 kick down cable

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loz1

New Member
Posts
17
Hi,

Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Possible underlaying problems with my gearbox/transfer box??
Gearbox screams to around 4500 revs before it changes for 3rd to 4th. I have a sports button (i know this only lets the engine rev higher before changing gears) but when pressed, it lights up on the dash then goes out. Plus I have "Select Neutral" on the information panel. (no faults read on gearbox and suspension is fine)


Thanks in advance
 
The "Select Neutral" message usually means the transfer box is trying to change ratios but the car is moving or in gear so it can't.

I wonder if you're stuck in low range or whether it's just got confused. With the car stationary, try putting the gearlever in neutral and changing to low ratio. (Wait for the beeping to stop). Then change back again. See if that makes any difference.

The Sport button becomes Manual control on low ratio, although it should still stay illuminated when pressed.

Worth a try anyway.

Guy
 
The "Select Neutral" message usually means the transfer box is trying to change ratios but the car is moving or in gear so it can't.

I wonder if you're stuck in low range or whether it's just got confused. With the car stationary, try putting the gearlever in neutral and changing to low ratio. (Wait for the beeping to stop). Then change back again. See if that makes any difference.

The Sport button becomes Manual control on low ratio, although it should still stay illuminated when pressed.

Worth a try anyway.

Guy

Just tried what you suggested. Unfortunately still the same. The "Select Neutral and Slow Down" messages go out but come back on again after a few seconds. I didn't hear any beeping either when i transfered from high to low and vice versa althrough the low ratio side of the "H" gear selector did start to flash
 
Just tried what you suggested. Unfortunately still the same. The "Select Neutral and Slow Down" messages go out but come back on again after a few seconds. I didn't hear any beeping either when i transfered from high to low and vice versa althrough the low ratio side of the "H" gear selector did start to flash

Did it ever stop flashing? At the same time as the low ratio side of the gear selector is flashing, you should have a flashing gearwheel symbol on the dashboard along with the beeping. This continues until the transfer box has completed changing ratios.

Sounds like something might be stuck, although whether this has any bearing on your original problem of late gearchanges or not I'm not entirely sure...

Guy
 
Did it ever stop flashing? At the same time as the low ratio side of the gear selector is flashing, you should have a flashing gearwheel symbol on the dashboard along with the beeping. This continues until the transfer box has completed changing ratios.

Sounds like something might be stuck, although whether this has any bearing on your original problem of late gearchanges or not I'm not entirely sure...

Guy

Just been out to the car. Started it up and did as suggested in your previous post. The low ratio side of the gear selector continued to flash in different gears for approx 5 mins without going out (also no flashing gearwheel symbol on the dash....having a look in the manual i don't think i have one, or if i have, the bulbs gone and i can't see it). I did however hear a faint whiring noise a couple of seconds after engaging the gears (but this possibly was the air suspension reseting itself)
 
if its screaming it sounds to me like it's stuck in low range, especially if it aint beeping and flashing at you. Sounds like transfer box. Or, electro****ery. Electro****ery is aknown problem with P38's.
 
Been searching the internet and read a few other peoples problems with changing gears etc, and a number all seem to come up with the same theories i.e replacement of the 'xyz' switch and/or change the ratio motor which changes from hi/low ratio. Would this be a feasible place to start??
 
Certainly sounds like something is amiss under there.

How hard are you pressing the accelerator when it holds its change to 4500 rpm? I would expect that even in low range it would change normally unless you were wellying it.

It sounds like you definitely have a problem with the low/high range changeover mechanism, but it may or may not be related to your original problem. I'm not sure these have kickdown cables. Isn't kickdown controlled electronically?

The hi/lo change should only take seconds. I have a slight clang on mine when it's changed ratios.

I assume you're not getting "gearbox fault" reported on the message centre? Mind you, that only seems to come up when the battery voltage is low anyway. Good old Land Rover!

There is definitley a gearbox ecu which may be playing up - not sure if there's a seperate one for the transfer box but it sounds as though yours is at least truying to work. The transfer box problem might just be the motor sticking but I don't know why you're not getting the beeping and the flashing gearwheel light on the dash.

Have you had a look on rangerovers.net to see if there's anything helpful on there? At the very least it will probably explain how it's supposed to work. Try here... Range Rover P38/4.0/4.6 Common Problems and Fixes

Guy
 
Certainly sounds like something is amiss under there.

How hard are you pressing the accelerator when it holds its change to 4500 rpm? I would expect that even in low range it would change normally unless you were wellying it.

It sounds like you definitely have a problem with the low/high range changeover mechanism, but it may or may not be related to your original problem. I'm not sure these have kickdown cables. Isn't kickdown controlled electronically?

The hi/lo change should only take seconds. I have a slight clang on mine when it's changed ratios.

I assume you're not getting "gearbox fault" reported on the message centre? Mind you, that only seems to come up when the battery voltage is low anyway. Good old Land Rover!

There is definitley a gearbox ecu which may be playing up - not sure if there's a seperate one for the transfer box but it sounds as though yours is at least truying to work. The transfer box problem might just be the motor sticking but I don't know why you're not getting the beeping and the flashing gearwheel light on the dash.

Have you had a look on rangerovers.net to see if there's anything helpful on there? At the very least it will probably explain how it's supposed to work. Try here... Range Rover P38/4.0/4.6 Common Problems and Fixes

Guy


Had a look on the Range Rover p38 common problems site and yes, the transfer case ecu is a known failure item. So. i'll start off with that (they are cheap on ebay) and go from there. The weekend is fast approaching so time to get underneath again and see it i can do anything with the ratio motor (may a tap with a large hammer would help). Thanks again and i'll relay progress as and when
 
Under the repair operations section there is an article on the selector switch. Might be worth having a quick read of that too. Sorry no link but I'm on my phone. Good luck!
 
Under the repair operations section there is an article on the selector switch. Might be worth having a quick read of that too. Sorry no link but I'm on my phone. Good luck!


:):):):):) As promised, an update. All's well with the range rover. Changed the transfer box ecu under the passenger seat with a secondhand one and 'BINGO'. Message in info panel 'Select Neutral' has gone. (don't know if this was a good thing as now i can see how many mpg i'm getting = no a lot). Sports button also works. The original ecu i had taken out had i rattle inside so obviously something wasn't right. Gear changes are fairly slick and no racing in one gear. All in all, a cheap fix. HAPPY DAYS
 
:):):):):) As promised, an update. All's well with the range rover. Changed the transfer box ecu under the passenger seat with a secondhand one and 'BINGO'. Message in info panel 'Select Neutral' has gone. (don't know if this was a good thing as now i can see how many mpg i'm getting = no a lot). Sports button also works. The original ecu i had taken out had i rattle inside so obviously something wasn't right. Gear changes are fairly slick and no racing in one gear. All in all, a cheap fix. HAPPY DAYS

Great news. Will it go into low range now?

Guy
 
Great news. Will it go into low range now?

Guy

Damn, forgot about that. Thought i was going too well. No symbol on the dash, no noise from the motor and no flashing when you change from high to low. So, i think no. I have the hi-low motor on order from the states so should arrive any day now so will see if that works. BUT STILL HAPPY
 
Damn, forgot about that. Thought i was going too well. No symbol on the dash, no noise from the motor and no flashing when you change from high to low. So, i think no. I have the hi-low motor on order from the states so should arrive any day now so will see if that works. BUT STILL HAPPY

From the States?? Surely it'd be cheaper to buy one here?

Anyway, sounds like you're making good progress. Keep us posted!

Guy
 
From the States?? Surely it'd be cheaper to buy one here?

Anyway, sounds like you're making good progress. Keep us posted!

Guy

Appologies for the late response. Ok, got the ratio motor from the states (was cheap to begin with but customs decided they wanted there share so ended up forking out £120). Anyway, swapped in over but doesn't seem have changed although when you do changed from high to low, the low ratio side of the 'H' box (inside car) does flash once and then goes off which it's never done before. Might try the switch on the gearbox next to see if that's
the problem
Also on another note, gear changes are alot smoother now I've top up the ATF. Only was down a bit but topping up
makes all the difference
 
Hi,

Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Possible underlaying problems with my gearbox/transfer box??
Gearbox screams to around 4500 revs before it changes for 3rd to 4th. I have a sports button (i know this only lets the engine rev higher before changing gears) but when pressed, it lights up on the dash then goes out. Plus I have "Select Neutral" on the information panel. (no faults read on gearbox and suspension is fine)


Thanks in advance

I had same problem, changed transfer motor for a second hand unit and the ECU. Still no good, when we opened both transfer motors old and replacemnt both were sold and burnt out. So I bought a new motor and put that on, still no good. Having changed back to the original ECU some time previous I put the second one back on and hey it all works. So really I think when you talking motor or ECU do both and you are sure to resolve
 
Hi Loz. 1st off, you should hear a clunk noise when you shift from High to Low range. My Dads does it and KookyGuy seems to say the same.
Regarding you sticking revs problem, my Dad had this issue, when kicking down it would rev right out and go no where - and when it was inspected, the diagnostic machine concluded that his MAF sensor was faulty.

I hope this helps.

Lee
 
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