Range Rover engine removal

A

[email protected]

Guest

• Jun 28, 2006

• #1

Hmm, I seem to be a bit stuck.

Trying to remove the engine from my '98 4.6 Range Rover. Everything is
now released except mountings and 3 bolts securing the bell housing to
the engine, the upper 2 and one on the right below the top one. Any
idea how to remove these bolts? Can't get a spanner on the lower one
at all, and the upper ones are so close to the bulkhead that the
spanner fits at a daft angle that would slip under presure. Socket
won't fit either on any of them. Any bright ideas?

Alan C

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Jun 28, 2006

• #2

On or around 28 Jun 2006 11:13:49 -0700, [email protected] enlightened
us thusly:

>Hmm, I seem to be a bit stuck.
>
>Trying to remove the engine from my '98 4.6 Range Rover. Everything is
>now released except mountings and 3 bolts securing the bell housing to
>the engine, the upper 2 and one on the right below the top one. Any
>idea how to remove these bolts? Can't get a spanner on the lower one
>at all, and the upper ones are so close to the bulkhead that the
>spanner fits at a daft angle that would slip under presure. Socket
>won't fit either on any of them. Any bright ideas?

pull the engine and box as a unit and split them after?
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose"
Alphonse Karr (1808 - 1890) Les Guêpes, Jan 1849

 

N

Nige

Guest

• Jun 28, 2006

• #3

Austin Shackles wrote:
> On or around 28 Jun 2006 11:13:49 -0700, [email protected]
> enlightened us thusly:
>
>> Hmm, I seem to be a bit stuck.
>>
>> Trying to remove the engine from my '98 4.6 Range Rover.
>> Everything is now released except mountings and 3 bolts securing
>> the bell housing to the engine, the upper 2 and one on the right
>> below the top one. Any idea how to remove these bolts? Can't get
>> a spanner on the lower one at all, and the upper ones are so close
>> to the bulkhead that the spanner fits at a daft angle that would
>> slip under presure. Socket won't fit either on any of them. Any
>> bright ideas?
>
> pull the engine and box as a unit and split them after?


Let the whole unit drop & support the bits that need supporting, then split it as you require. There is a
way of doing it as i have seen loads in breakers, but it will be easier to do it as Austin says.

Nige


--

Subaru WRX
Range Rover 4.6 HSE (The Tank!)
200cc Dirt Bike (Dirtbag)

We might be going on a summer holiday, the Greece Ball rally!!!!

 

S

SimonJ

Guest

• Jun 28, 2006

• #4

> Trying to remove the engine from my '98 4.6 Range Rover. Everything is
> now released except mountings and 3 bolts securing the bell housing to
> the engine, the upper 2 and one on the right below the top one. Any
> idea how to remove these bolts? Can't get a spanner on the lower one
> at all, and the upper ones are so close to the bulkhead that the
> spanner fits at a daft angle that would slip under presure. Socket
> won't fit either on any of them. Any bright ideas?
>
According to the manual, up to 99 model, the engine and transmission is
removed as a unit, after 99, the engine is removed on it own, but remove the
engine mounts from the engine and chassis first. This presumably allows the
engine to drop enough to access the rest of the bolts.

 

A

[email protected]

Guest

• Jun 29, 2006

• #5

> According to the manual, up to 99 model, the engine and transmission is
> removed as a unit, after 99, the engine is removed on it own, but remove the
> engine mounts from the engine and chassis first. This presumably allows the
> engine to drop enough to access the rest of the bolts.

Yeah, I read that, can't understand why they state this, the 'box and
engine is the same. Only difference on the later unit is an ally sump
pan and different injection gear. I've got most of the induction stuff
off anyway so now there should be no difference. I really don't want
to take the boxes out as well, too much extra work, so I think I'll
remove the engine mounts and drop the engine as much as I can, shove it
left/right etc and see if that helps access. Last resort is to remove
the gearbox crossmember and drop the box a bit too. All this to save a
grand

Alan C

 

I

icky

Guest

• Jun 29, 2006

• #6

When its as low as it can go try getting at them from over the top of the
gearbox with a load of extensions.

Icky

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> According to the manual, up to 99 model, the engine and transmission is
>> removed as a unit, after 99, the engine is removed on it own, but remove
>> the
>> engine mounts from the engine and chassis first. This presumably allows
>> the
>> engine to drop enough to access the rest of the bolts.
>
> Yeah, I read that, can't understand why they state this, the 'box and
> engine is the same. Only difference on the later unit is an ally sump
> pan and different injection gear. I've got most of the induction stuff
> off anyway so now there should be no difference. I really don't want
> to take the boxes out as well, too much extra work, so I think I'll
> remove the engine mounts and drop the engine as much as I can, shove it
> left/right etc and see if that helps access. Last resort is to remove
> the gearbox crossmember and drop the box a bit too. All this to save a
> grand
>
> Alan C
>

 

G

Gazza

Guest

• Jun 29, 2006

• #7

[email protected] wrote:
>>According to the manual, up to 99 model, the engine and transmission is
>>removed as a unit, after 99, the engine is removed on it own, but remove the
>>engine mounts from the engine and chassis first. This presumably allows the
>>engine to drop enough to access the rest of the bolts.
>
>
> Yeah, I read that, can't understand why they state this, the 'box and
> engine is the same. Only difference on the later unit is an ally sump
> pan and different injection gear. I've got most of the induction stuff
> off anyway so now there should be no difference. I really don't want
> to take the boxes out as well, too much extra work, so I think I'll
> remove the engine mounts and drop the engine as much as I can, shove it
> left/right etc and see if that helps access. Last resort is to remove
> the gearbox crossmember and drop the box a bit too. All this to save a
> grand
>
> Alan C
>
Ive just had a new engine fitted in my 1998 P38 by a local independent
outfit. While work was in progress I popped in to have a look. My car
was up in the air on the lift and he was working on the deck below
transferring bits on the engines. The gearbox was still in the car and
there were no extra supports in place so I'm sure the crossmember was
still there. It obviously can be done but I'm afraid I can't tell you how!

Gaz

--

1998 V8 HSE P38
1989 V8 RR Classic

If It Ain’t Broken... Fix It ‘Til It Is

 

B

beamendsltd

Guest

• Jun 29, 2006

• #8

In message <[email protected]>
[email protected] wrote:

> Hmm, I seem to be a bit stuck.
>
> Trying to remove the engine from my '98 4.6 Range Rover. Everything is
> now released except mountings and 3 bolts securing the bell housing to
> the engine, the upper 2 and one on the right below the top one. Any
> idea how to remove these bolts? Can't get a spanner on the lower one
> at all, and the upper ones are so close to the bulkhead that the
> spanner fits at a daft angle that would slip under presure. Socket
> won't fit either on any of them. Any bright ideas?
>
> Alan C
>

Take the engine mountings off (a bit fiddly to get back on though)
and drop the engine down - making sure nothing gets squashed/stretched.

Also works on Defenders & Discovery I's - no need to remove the
floor to do a clutch.

Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
RISC-OS - Where have all the good guys gone?
Lib Dems - Townies keeping comedy alive

 

A

[email protected]

Guest

• Jun 30, 2006

• #9

Just an update.......

With the engine mountings removed and the engine dropped as low as it
will go, it is just possible to get at all the bell housing bolts, but
from differing places. The worst ones are on the starter motor side.
These are removed by careful use of a very well fitting 14mm impact
socket hamered onto the imperial bolt head, this way it won't slip and
round them off! Then use wiggle drive, various extention pieces and
all while on your back under the car. What fun the last 2 days have
been!

Right, now to build the new engine with the good bits from the old,
then refit!

Anyone want a 4.6 block, excellent condition on 7 bores? ;-)


Alan C

 

N

Nige

Guest

• Jun 30, 2006

• #10

[email protected] wrote:
> Just an update.......
>
> With the engine mountings removed and the engine dropped as low as
> it will go, it is just possible to get at all the bell housing
> bolts, but from differing places. The worst ones are on the
> starter motor side. These are removed by careful use of a very well
> fitting 14mm impact socket hamered onto the imperial bolt head,
> this way it won't slip and round them off! Then use wiggle drive,
> various extention pieces and all while on your back under the car.
> What fun the last 2 days have been!
>
> Right, now to build the new engine with the good bits from the old,
> then refit!
>
> Anyone want a 4.6 block, excellent condition on 7 bores? ;-)
>
>
> Alan C


Where are you matey?

Nige


--

Subaru WRX
Range Rover 4.6 HSE (The Tank!)
200cc Dirt Bike (Dirtbag)

We might be going on a summer holiday, the Greece Ball rally!!!!

 

A

[email protected]

Guest

• Jun 30, 2006

• #11

>
> Where are you matey?
>
> Nige

I'm in Hatfield, Hertfordshire. I'll list the block on Ebay, as
there's bound to be someone there who'll pay silly money for it, even
if I do describe exactly what state it's in. Some have recently sold
for over £400 even having the description of a slipped liner and
presurizes the cooling system. I'd be pleased to get a couple of
hundred. Anything to reduce the huge credit card bill due in a few
weeks.

Alan C

 

N

Nige

Guest

• Jun 30, 2006

• #12

[email protected] wrote:
>> Where are you matey?
>>
>> Nige
>
> I'm in Hatfield, Hertfordshire. I'll list the block on Ebay, as
> there's bound to be someone there who'll pay silly money for it,
> even if I do describe exactly what state it's in. Some have
> recently sold for over £400 even having the description of a
> slipped liner and presurizes the cooling system. I'd be pleased to
> get a couple of hundred. Anything to reduce the huge credit card
> bill due in a few weeks.
>
> Alan C

Yikes!!! Mate, it's worth £30 maximum! But, as you say, some sucker will bid that.

nige