Range Rover Classic welding

Hi people, I'm currently making some complimentary repairs to my range rover classic. I have already created a thread about this, but due to my limited tech knowledge I've made a real mess of it, I still can't figure out how to delete posts. I'd like to document these repairs for my own benefit and for those other nutjobs out there like me who enjoy this kind of thing! Many thanks Dave.

You need a bit more heat in them welds, tack plate in place, then either fully seam weld which in most cases will be to hot and burn holes or just tack tack tack so it is fully seam welded but you can control the puddle, if its hot enough one tack will melt into the next, if it burns through just move on an inch or so and carry on welding, then sort out the messy bits afterwards.
Looks are not that important, strength is.
People will say weld uphill for strength which on structural stuff is pretty much correct, but on bodywork weld it anyway you can get to it.
No matter how good you think you are at welding, car bodywork will always bite your arse!

No doubt in that it bites, the original metal certainly spits, probably down to some of the surface corrosion that's still in it. I did find it welded better downwards at this bit, maybe that's just due the position that was comfortable for me. Agreed it could be better at being hotter, as the penetration isn't that great, however I was blowing straight through both edges at 25 amps, so it's worked out this way, my theory is the strength will be in the convex weld as opposed to the penetration =D.
Any suggestions for what paint you use? I've used hammerite primer? I've bought a zinc rich primer that I'm going try aswell, then u was planning on using some coach enamel on top if that.

As @lynall says get a bit more heat into the weld and also check your earth is solid those welds look to me just sitting...you also mention burning through always cut back to solid metal and clean both sides...

RRDave said:

No doubt in that it bites, the original metal certainly spits, probably down to some of the surface corrosion that's still in it. I did find it welded better downwards at this bit, maybe that's just due the position that was comfortable for me. Agreed it could be better at being hotter, as the penetration isn't that great, however I was blowing straight through both edges at 25 amps, so it's worked out this way, my theory is the strength will be in the convex weld as opposed to the penetration =D.
Any suggestions for what paint you use? I've used hammerite primer? I've bought a zinc rich primer that I'm going try aswell, then u was planning on using some coach enamel on top if that.

Click to expand...

Welding dont work like that, you really need the penetration for strength, though they will be okay if its not an important bit.
Butt welds on old thin sheet are some of the hardest welds to do, if you lap them it is much easier as you have more material to play with, plus you can if access allows weld both sides.

Regards paint, any will do but like all weld repairs you have to keep an eye on it and recoat if needed in the future.
I primed with toolstation red primer, top coat with hammerite, then bilt hamber wax on top, only reason for this combo is it was what I had in the garage!

What i managed yesterday, the last little plate underneath was a faff, next time I plan to tack all the plates in situ, then once everything is fitted, remove the tacks and weld the assembly of plates in the shed, then bend it all back into place so I'll do the min amount of welding possible on the car.

Looking good RRDave, thanks for posting

Last picture in post #9 is looking better - on the other welds your voltage was too low..

I use Bonda Primer - it's full of goodness - and then tractol enamel on top of that, then Dinitrol UB wax - which lasts well, but does need re-coating every couple of years ...

Thanks for the tips, I've used hammerite primer I have some coach enamel i'll try on top of that then. I've used tigerseal for seam sealing.

Tigerseal upol


Started cutting on the other side, A pillar is much better this side, too many patches in the floor, so cut a decent portion out. I knew this body mount was dead so chopping that out aswell. I plan to do the sills and pillar bottoms in a few years. So will make temporary bodges for the mount but I want to get the footwell area and floor solid to compliment future repairs. I've also found a hole in one of the body mounts on the bulkhead, very upsetting. I now have a grand total of 4 questionable body mounts! Luckily the work is quite satisfying, but I will only be doing so much body stuff this year because I need to the heads off!

I think, it's ok if you'll post your photo here and it's a good opportunity for us to read and watch out after your progress.

lots of good clean solid work going into that .. looks good .

I've been progressing the repairs around the Range Rover, I've learnt that you need to make sure all the rusty metal is removed before making repair sections, I've also learnt more about how the panels are put together. It has been satisfying. I'm happy with the quality of my work so far. I think it would have been worth me replacing the whole inner wings, it would make the repairs easier to access with the grinder and welder, the repairs I'm making will do for a few years, but I do plan on doing the wings and front end eventually. One light pod was totally rotten so I've replaced that just using rivets and made a few ropey repairs with plates and rivets, but this is just intended to keep her roadworthy for the forseeable future. I'm also going to grind all surface rust on the inner arches and coat with two layers of Corroless S primer. I've purchased some Corrolan underseal wax to try, its like Lanoguard but half the price, since Jesus himself made Lanoguard by the way. I've got some good old brushable waxoyl for the inner arches too.