Range Rover Classic - no Spark

Hello Everyone,
I have a 1989 Range Rover. I am getting no spark from the coil. I have
gone through all the tests in the service manual and the book tells me
it is either the coil or the plug wires, both of which have been
replaced. I have tested the ignition load relay on its own and it
closes with 12 volts. The strange thing is that when I test the relay
socket I get less than 0.5 volts through the two contacts that are
supposed to activate the relay, no matter what position the ignition
switch is in. Does anyone know the correct voltage needed to activate
this relay or is there an inline fuse I am not finding. If I am on the
wrong track and the problem lies elsewhere please help. The electrical
diagrams in the service manual I have are not correct, so I am kind of
in the dark. Here is a link to the manual I am using,
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9291A.cfm .

Before this problem the engine was overheating due to a bad radiator,
so I replaced the radiator. Then the water pump went out. I replaced
the pump and the thermostat. All seemed well and after 2 days of
normal driving with no problems it quit on the highway at 60 mph as if
I had just turned off the ignition. I pulled over and it would not
start. After 10 minutes checking connections and finding nothing wrong
it started. I parked it when I arrived at work at 7am & restarted it
at 11am & 3pm with no problems. Then at 4pm when I was to leave for
the day it would not start and has not turned over since. I thought it
may be the coil, amplifier, alternator, wires, relays or fuses. But
like I stated above I have tested and ruled them out using the service
manual. I have no way of testing the ignition switch out of the vehicle
or checking voltages in the wiring since I do not have an accurate
electrical diagram.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Michael

"Michael" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello Everyone,
> I have a 1989 Range Rover. I am getting no spark from the coil. I have
> gone through all the tests in the service manual and the book tells me
> it is either the coil or the plug wires, both of which have been
> replaced. I have tested the ignition load relay on its own and it
> closes with 12 volts. The strange thing is that when I test the relay
> socket I get less than 0.5 volts through the two contacts that are
> supposed to activate the relay, no matter what position the ignition
> switch is in. Does anyone know the correct voltage needed to activate
> this relay or is there an inline fuse I am not finding. If I am on the
> wrong track and the problem lies elsewhere please help. The electrical
> diagrams in the service manual I have are not correct, so I am kind of
> in the dark. Here is a link to the manual I am using,
> http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9291A.cfm .
>
> Before this problem the engine was overheating due to a bad radiator,
> so I replaced the radiator. Then the water pump went out. I replaced
> the pump and the thermostat. All seemed well and after 2 days of
> normal driving with no problems it quit on the highway at 60 mph as if
> I had just turned off the ignition. I pulled over and it would not
> start. After 10 minutes checking connections and finding nothing wrong
> it started. I parked it when I arrived at work at 7am & restarted it
> at 11am & 3pm with no problems. Then at 4pm when I was to leave for
> the day it would not start and has not turned over since. I thought it
> may be the coil, amplifier, alternator, wires, relays or fuses. But
> like I stated above I have tested and ruled them out using the service
> manual. I have no way of testing the ignition switch out of the vehicle
> or checking voltages in the wiring since I do not have an accurate
> electrical diagram.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Michael
>
Check the earth connection from the amplifier unit under the coil to the
inner wing, I've had lots of trouble from these in the past.

Martin

Oily wrote:
> >
> Check the earth connection from the amplifier unit under the coil to the
> inner wing, I've had lots of trouble from these in the past.
>
> Martin

On my engine the amplifier is still mounted to the distributer, but I
have heard about a modification where the amplifier is mounted
elsewhere because of problems caused by heat. I am guessing you have
the mod. I will check all the grounds again to be sure.
Thanks,
Michael

On 7 Oct 2006 13:14:33 -0700, "Michael" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Oily wrote:
>> >
>> Check the earth connection from the amplifier unit under the coil to the
>> inner wing, I've had lots of trouble from these in the past.
>>
>> Martin
>
>On my engine the amplifier is still mounted to the distributer, but I
>have heard about a modification where the amplifier is mounted
>elsewhere because of problems caused by heat. I am guessing you have
>the mod. I will check all the grounds again to be sure.


I'd bet that its the amp that has failed. I've seen 2 fail and in both
cases the test procedures failed to diagnose it. The symptoms sound
exactly like the way ours failed.

"Michael" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Oily wrote:
>> >
>> Check the earth connection from the amplifier unit under the coil to the
>> inner wing, I've had lots of trouble from these in the past.
>>
>> Martin
>
> On my engine the amplifier is still mounted to the distributer, but I
> have heard about a modification where the amplifier is mounted
> elsewhere because of problems caused by heat. I am guessing you have
> the mod. I will check all the grounds again to be sure.
> Thanks,
> Michael

Peggy was an '89 and the amp was mounted under the air mass sensor as std
the plugs are ( here I go again) poor quality and need cleaning now and
again usually when one cylinder bank goes awol I also needed to replace
several of the coil wires due to internal corrosion after various problems.
check the feed to the coil ( ignition on) using a meter battery neg to coil
negative should be approx 12v if not looks like coil probs
the amp needs a good earth any reading between the -ve battery terminal
and the case of the amp is a problem.
to check the amp turn the ignition off and check the voltage again between
the battery -ve and coil -ve if you are not getting a zero reading the amp
has a fault that bit of info courtesy of the very old Haynes pre- take
everything to garage edition

Derek

Derek wrote:

> to check the amp turn the ignition off and check the voltage again between
> the battery -ve and coil -ve if you are not getting a zero reading the amp
> has a fault that bit of info courtesy of the very old Haynes pre- take
> everything to garage edition
>

Hey Derek,

I tried what you suggested and got .004 volts. Not much but I guess it
is enough to tell me the amp is the culprit.

Thanks for the tip,
Michael

P.S. I know this will get a laugh, but does anyone know where you can
get accurate electrical diagrams for rovers. Normally all you need is
a good parts manual and electrical diagrams and you can fix anything.

"Michael" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Derek wrote:
>
>> to check the amp turn the ignition off and check the voltage again
>> between
>> the battery -ve and coil -ve if you are not getting a zero reading the
>> amp
>> has a fault that bit of info courtesy of the very old Haynes pre- take
>> everything to garage edition
>>
>
> Hey Derek,
>
> I tried what you suggested and got .004 volts. Not much but I guess it
> is enough to tell me the amp is the culprit.
>
> Thanks for the tip,
> Michael
>
> P.S. I know this will get a laugh, but does anyone know where you can
> get accurate electrical diagrams for rovers. Normally all you need is
> a good parts manual and electrical diagrams and you can fix anything.

NP, its a shame that the newer Haynes are so lack lustre even so thats a
very low reading my meter would have missed it completely. Best diagrams are
on Workshop Manuals and RAVE manuals slight problem is they started ( I
think ) around 1995, the early Haynes are fair but give me eyestrain If you
want drop me an email and I'll post you some links to download sites for pdf
manuals always handy!
remove nospambaby before posting
Derek

On or around 7 Oct 2006 09:00:22 -0700, "Michael" <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>Hello Everyone,
>I have a 1989 Range Rover. I am getting no spark from the coil. I have
>gone through all the tests in the service manual and the book tells me
>it is either the coil or the plug wires, both of which have been
>replaced. I have tested the ignition load relay on its own and it
>closes with 12 volts.

I've seen a rotor arm go short-circuit to the post inside. Mind, you do get
a spark from the coil lead, just not at the plugs. Took a while to
diagnose.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Appearances: You don't really need make-up. Celebrate your authentic
face by frightening people in the street.
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.

On or around 7 Oct 2006 13:14:33 -0700, "Michael" <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>Oily wrote:
>> >
>> Check the earth connection from the amplifier unit under the coil to the
>> inner wing, I've had lots of trouble from these in the past.
>>
>> Martin
>
>On my engine the amplifier is still mounted to the distributer, but I
>have heard about a modification where the amplifier is mounted
>elsewhere because of problems caused by heat. I am guessing you have
>the mod. I will check all the grounds again to be sure.

The later distributors tend to have the amp on the side of the dizzy body.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
If all be true that I do think, There are five reasons we should drink;
Good wine, a friend, or being dry, Or lest we should be by and by;
Or any other reason why. - Henry Aldrich (1647 - 1710)

Austin Shackles wrote:
>
> I've seen a rotor arm go short-circuit to the post inside. Mind, you do get
> a spark from the coil lead, just not at the plugs. Took a while to
> diagnose.

The place I used to work it was the standard thing to do to the
apprentice's car - let him spend days sorting out the problem.


--
EMB

Thanks to all for your suggestions.
Derek had it correct. It was the amplifier. On my rover the amp is
mounted to the side of the distributor, where it is exposed to a lot of
heat. And since I recently had to replace a faulty radiator that makes
perfect sense that it woud fail. Just too many problems in a row, my
sanity is starting to suffer.

Thanks again,
Michael