your bodywork welding will never look like lovely runs because you cannot do runs without burning through. I'd get a scrap bit of 1.2mm and see how high you can take your welder without burning through. You want to stack coins, stitching it. Overlapping edges.
Range Rover Classic 1983 Rolling Restoration
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tarphenry
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thats rubbish! with the correct wire,clean material and correct welding parameters ,ie current ,voltage wire speed inductance and gas flow. You will minimise the problems. then its down to operator control which comes with practice
Have a look at this. Works for me.
www.mig-welding.co.uk/butt-weld.htm
I do find argoshield a lot nicer than CO2 & the eurotorch conversion a vast improvement over the normal Machine Mart Clark set up.
www.mig-welding.co.uk/butt-weld.htm
I do find argoshield a lot nicer than CO2 & the eurotorch conversion a vast improvement over the normal Machine Mart Clark set up.
You can run a bead on 1.2mm with a diy style mig?
"Technique for thin metal
The way around this is to weld in short pulses, allowing a second or less between pulses for the steel to cool down. In the video I've left about a second between pulses. These days I'll normally leave less than half a second. The longer you leave the more chance you'll have of cold joints and pinholes between the welds.
Turn your sound on for best effect. The movie is about 1.4MB so will take a little time to load."
This is from Ratae link and words what I was trying to say better!
The way around this is to weld in short pulses, allowing a second or less between pulses for the steel to cool down. In the video I've left about a second between pulses. These days I'll normally leave less than half a second. The longer you leave the more chance you'll have of cold joints and pinholes between the welds.
Turn your sound on for best effect. The movie is about 1.4MB so will take a little time to load."
This is from Ratae link and words what I was trying to say better!
norseman
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Haven't done anymore on the body work but have had a chance to have a look at the carb setup.....any ideas on what type of system it is?
Also what's this arrangement on the side of the manifold? Probably a thick question but haven't seen it before!
The whole engine bay needs a good tidy sometime too...
Photos 1 & 2 appear to be an Impco LPG mixer assembly.
Quick google produces these although I have no idea whether they are the exact one fitted to yours:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/IMPCO-CA30...G-DUAL-FUEL-SILICONE-FILTER-CAM-/191922265145
https://nashfuel.ecrater.com/p/18223369/impco-rk300ma-1-20-2-ca300-300-major-repair#
www.rasoenterprises.com/propane/31-carburetion/187-dual-fuel?start=3
I've no idea what carb you have fitted - assuming you have one at all & not just something for LPG use only as IIRC yours is LPG only? - & would expect to have seen twin carbs (probably Zenith-Stromberg/Solex 175CD type) so yours has something else most likely with its own proprietary intake manifold.
Photo 3 provides hot air to the air cleaner assembly that would have been fitted to the twin carbs & that assembly was fitted with a vacuum operated thermostatically controlled flap which controlled the temp of air going into the carbs & could vary it from hot to cold depending on the flap position.
http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1230/73417/74385/5957 item 9 which goes to item 17 in this link http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1230/73417/74385/5978/74714
Quick google produces these although I have no idea whether they are the exact one fitted to yours:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/IMPCO-CA30...G-DUAL-FUEL-SILICONE-FILTER-CAM-/191922265145
https://nashfuel.ecrater.com/p/18223369/impco-rk300ma-1-20-2-ca300-300-major-repair#
www.rasoenterprises.com/propane/31-carburetion/187-dual-fuel?start=3
I've no idea what carb you have fitted - assuming you have one at all & not just something for LPG use only as IIRC yours is LPG only? - & would expect to have seen twin carbs (probably Zenith-Stromberg/Solex 175CD type) so yours has something else most likely with its own proprietary intake manifold.
Photo 3 provides hot air to the air cleaner assembly that would have been fitted to the twin carbs & that assembly was fitted with a vacuum operated thermostatically controlled flap which controlled the temp of air going into the carbs & could vary it from hot to cold depending on the flap position.
http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1230/73417/74385/5957 item 9 which goes to item 17 in this link http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1230/73417/74385/5978/74714
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So this is how it went back together after I replaced the bolts that run right through the mixer assembly...
The only way to fit the air filter on is to squeeze it before fitting, which is what the previous air filter had done to it - so dont say it was the wrong filter
It seems to seal so I'm happy!!
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I bet your manifold is an original Rover unit converted & modified for the SPi gas system.
My thoughts too.
If you wanted to run on petrol carbs would be easier & I'd suggest looking for a used inlet manifold fitted with carbs/throttle linkages etc so you're not looking for bits & pieces. Appear on ebay etc.
Holley & Edelbrocks do come up from time to time c/w their V8 manifold but not cheap
I don't know whether your current LPG set up would work with any carb setup so it might be a lot of expense & faffing about.
This might be of interest: http://www.wolfitt.com/carbs_and_manifolds.htm
If you wanted to run on petrol carbs would be easier & I'd suggest looking for a used inlet manifold fitted with carbs/throttle linkages etc so you're not looking for bits & pieces. Appear on ebay etc.
Holley & Edelbrocks do come up from time to time c/w their V8 manifold but not cheap
I don't know whether your current LPG set up would work with any carb setup so it might be a lot of expense & faffing about.
This might be of interest: http://www.wolfitt.com/carbs_and_manifolds.htm
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It does look that way, I have managed to track down the guy who did the installation and engine build for this one, so I'll drop in sometime and surprise him...
Yeah that's the only thing stopping me from going to the dual fuel setup, it seems pretty complex to set up for an engine like this.....
There is a company near where I live that does LPG installs so I'll ask them sometime, I'm in no rush, Im actually enjoying how it runs on lpg, has been set up well....
Mine's been fine on LPG.
Main issue is the lack of accuracy of tank gauges & the availability of LPG at filling stations.
I know what I'm going to get from a full fill of LPG & just zero the trip meter when I fill.
Locally & on regular journeys I know where they are but there are occasions where there isn't one - or one I've used is either closed or doesn't do LPG anymore so the petrol is the safety zone. It is possible to mount a small petrol tank inside the rear quarter panel & use the normal space for gas tanks but for my purpose that would be more trouble than I wanted to take on.
Main issue is the lack of accuracy of tank gauges & the availability of LPG at filling stations.
I know what I'm going to get from a full fill of LPG & just zero the trip meter when I fill.
Locally & on regular journeys I know where they are but there are occasions where there isn't one - or one I've used is either closed or doesn't do LPG anymore so the petrol is the safety zone. It is possible to mount a small petrol tank inside the rear quarter panel & use the normal space for gas tanks but for my purpose that would be more trouble than I wanted to take on.
Forgot about my thread so time for some updates.....
Been too busy driving the thing - and fixing
So after I got my WOF and rego i did a series of long trips up into St bathans, Timaru 3 times, Lake opuha, Fairlie, Invercargill, and many more, it ran like a dream until I was up at a mates shed one weekend in Timaru where we planned to fit a new rear section of the exhaust and correct the mismatched headers....
That all went ok but took a lot longer.
Then on the 2-1/2 hr trip home, it started overheating! Right up and it would sit just on the red while cruising at 100kmph.....
We eased it home, stopping regularly and cranked into trying to find out what it was...keep in mind that nothing had been touched on the engine...
First check was the radiator fluid so flushed that out, looked ok, not any ugly colored water, and the flow through the rad looked ok, but refilled and still the same problem, so off came the water pump which looked perfect and the end plate on the engine will need replacing in the next rebuild because that was ugly....
Refitted the water pump after some flushing out and it ran very slightly cooler then b4 but still not right. The two hoses were vastly different temps when it was hot.
After doing this I removed the thermostat which hasnt made much difference to the running temp but seemed to solve the problem of having a hot top rad hose and a cold bottom hose...
Next I tried some of the super duty radiator flush which seemed to do something as I could keep it cooler when idling then.
Finally clicked that it may be the viscous fan, so have removed that and wired in 2 x 12" electric fans with a digital thermatic switch, which is great but it still heats up a bit going up hills on the highway, I have done around 500kms in it with the electric fan so it's ok but will get a new radiator soon....just trying to find somewhere that does a nice shiny alloy 1 with the right mounts for a 84rrc!
Pics to come....
Been too busy driving the thing - and fixing
So after I got my WOF and rego i did a series of long trips up into St bathans, Timaru 3 times, Lake opuha, Fairlie, Invercargill, and many more, it ran like a dream until I was up at a mates shed one weekend in Timaru where we planned to fit a new rear section of the exhaust and correct the mismatched headers....
That all went ok but took a lot longer.
Then on the 2-1/2 hr trip home, it started overheating! Right up and it would sit just on the red while cruising at 100kmph.....
We eased it home, stopping regularly and cranked into trying to find out what it was...keep in mind that nothing had been touched on the engine...
First check was the radiator fluid so flushed that out, looked ok, not any ugly colored water, and the flow through the rad looked ok, but refilled and still the same problem, so off came the water pump which looked perfect and the end plate on the engine will need replacing in the next rebuild because that was ugly....
Refitted the water pump after some flushing out and it ran very slightly cooler then b4 but still not right. The two hoses were vastly different temps when it was hot.
After doing this I removed the thermostat which hasnt made much difference to the running temp but seemed to solve the problem of having a hot top rad hose and a cold bottom hose...
Next I tried some of the super duty radiator flush which seemed to do something as I could keep it cooler when idling then.
Finally clicked that it may be the viscous fan, so have removed that and wired in 2 x 12" electric fans with a digital thermatic switch, which is great but it still heats up a bit going up hills on the highway, I have done around 500kms in it with the electric fan so it's ok but will get a new radiator soon....just trying to find somewhere that does a nice shiny alloy 1 with the right mounts for a 84rrc!
Pics to come....
Here's the setup all installed, I need to get rid of my homemade spacer and get a slightly smaller pulley too, would that change the ratio and make the water pump spin a bit faster??
And here's the thermatic switch, this will all be wired into some waterproof box at some point, but is just attached with cable ties atm...
I have also wired a switch into the earth circuit so that I can switch the fans completely off when doing water crossings.... - at some stage I will put this in the cab but I can just hop out and open the bonnet for now...Attachments
Also wired up a light bar for more traction when I get stuck in deep ruts...
And a rear light too, just haven't wired it in yet....
The result of this and the thermatic fan set is that I have ended up with a bit of a mess heading to the battery, any ideas on how to fix this?
And a rear light too, just haven't wired it in yet....
The result of this and the thermatic fan set is that I have ended up with a bit of a mess heading to the battery, any ideas on how to fix this?
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