Range Rover 4.6hse Problems

I am new to the forum so please bare with me.

I have recently got hold of a 99/T Range Rover 4.6HSE with LPG and have a few problems which I hope I can fix myself.

First problem is that the heating will not work all vent possitions work and Aircon ok just no heat at all. I have checked the heater rad hoses and all appear to be as they should, car runs spot on the halfway mark no problem there, getting puzzled.

Also the engine has a very slight oil leak from the Crankshaft pulley, is it possible to do yourself or is it a garage job.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Any advice please.

I take it from your post the the open book symbol is not showing on the display? Can you manually direct the airflow using the buttons on the HEVAC control unit and do all variations work as they should, i.e. screen only blows only to the screen etc? Have you checked if warm water is entering the heater matrix? If you lean over the drivers side wing near the rear of the engine (top) you will see two silver pipes going through the bulkhead, are both pipes warm?

Welcome to the lunatic asylum Chunky..........
Firstly, have a look on Range Rovers for heating problems-there is loads of self checks you can do and if you are still unsure afterwards,shout up and I am sure we can help.
Secondly, front oil seal can be replaced but it's best to remove the Crank pulley and front cover to do the job properly. Get a front cover gasket beforehand with the seal of course. If it's a V8, check the state of the serpentine belt and replace that as well if it's dodgy at the same time. TIP-if it's a V8 don't go overboard tightening the flexible hose connection to the bottom of the front cover as there's not too much meat around the boss that it screws in to and the boss WILL crack-result new front cover/oil pump assembly at around £300 "Ouch"

Parts: (4.6 GEMS engine-with aircon) guide prices excl V.A.T.

Front cover gasket ERR 7280 £1.75
Front crank oil seal ERR 6490 £1.60
Serpentine belt ERR 4460 £11.50

Cheers guys for the help and advice shall order new seals and get the crank done. The heater control does have the open book showing today, but all vents can be directed via control unit just no heat.

Is it no heat one side or both?

I have sourced the problem and its the blend motors two of which are not working, have stripped the dash and got them out just need to put them back tomorrow.

I have another slight fault on the RR, this being when accelerating gently the car shakes like mad when it reaches 50mph and then stops at 55mph. Have checked all the joints and all seem tight, do you think its worth adjusting steering rack as I have also just replaced the steering damper.

Can you also recommend the best tyres for the RR 18" as I need to replace two, don`t do much off road work.

Thanks for all your help and advice.

Don't forget to get the motors calibrated after fitting with Test Book, Autologic, Rovacom etc. Are the front wheels balanced o.k? Any good tyres-Good Year Wrangler, Bridgestone, Pirelli Scorpion etc. are fine for All Terrain-just shop around.

You probably do not have to replace the blend motors, my experience is that it is only the brushes inside the electrical motor that are beeing rounded off and shortcircuts the motor. They can easily be replaced or sanded down to be flat again. It took me an hour to fix, the advantage is that you do not need to undo all the cables, just get the motor out through the front panel and fix it. More info in my post here:

More details and pictures here. It is in Norwegian, but the pictures and english text on the pictures should be enough to perform the repair.

tnfno, can the blend motors be rebuilt, as in the gubbing inside the little black box as some one has hacke mine in a previous life and left only one side of the motor case and motor still attached, motor moves when controls operated?? (think i just saved myself a few quid there)

the crank seal chunky, i thought i had this problem but it was the oil pressure switch that is located sort of behind the belt tensioner on the drivers side bank of the block, fiddly job but cost me 11 quid!!

Yes, they can be fixed and I am sure it is actually faster than replacing them. You should check if the gears inside the black box is OK. if they are, you can weld out the motor and put a 12v (9v will also do) battery on it and see if it runs. Mine would bearly move and needed to be pushed to start moving slowly. I sanded down the brushes, and it worked perfectly, that is over a year ago. The other blend motor failed a few months ago, this time I got some replacement brushes and put in. This one also works perfectly after the repair. You should observe the arrows on the gears, they must align when you put it together again.

I did not need to recalibrate anything, I am pretty sure I have read that the BECM does that automatically every now and then. The Open Book also goes away when everything is OK.

Read the Rave info. on blend motor replacement. The motors have to be taught their open & closed positions which is determined by the variable output from the potentiometers which are driven via the gearing by the motors. The interior of the motor casing is flimsy to say the least. After all the hassle of stripdown to even get to the motors, ask yourself if you would rather fit new motors or "Repair" the old ones, probably to do the job again in a short while at best.

are u using p38 wheels if not check for spigot rings if they are not there fit them first other than that balancing or buckled wheel might be the answer i fitted l322 wheels to mine and it wobbled like hell between 51 and 55 mph fitted rings perfect after

Big thank you to everyone, seem to have solved all issues bar the cruise control.