range rover 4.6 electrical problem

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pappymason

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Hi All, Can anybody please help me out with this' I have a Range Rover HSE p38 4.6, which has been over heating i put it down to an air lock in the system or bad thermostat while changing the thermo an working on the engine i managed to touch the two battery terminals with a metal bar which made a spark as it would do' but now when i trun the engine over i get nothink acting like there is no power although all lights and electricals are working' can any fuses or relays burn out due to my silly mistake?? or does it sound like my coil pack has burnt out as it was a bit dodggy made a crackling noise after upgrading my HT leads, can anyone help if you can make sence of what i have said???? thanx you
 
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It sounds like you have lost sync between the BECM and the ECU - you will need to get it re-synced - if you do not own a sync mate a Land Rover Dealer is probably your best bet... (unless there is someone close who can help you)
 
magictiny said:
It sounds like you have lost sync between the BECM and the ECU - you will need to get it re-synced - if you do not own a sync mate a Land Rover Dealer is probably your best bet... (unless there is someone close who can help you)
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thanx Magictiny a friend of mine who breaks range rovers said the same thing what a pain in the backside cheers for your replay very much appreciated, do you know if its a costly thing to get done by a range rover dealer??
 
Switch on the ignition and see if the amber check engine warning lamp comes on. If yes that means the becm and gems are talking to each other and no resync is required. If no the gems is not happy with the security code from the becm.
 
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davidg said:
Switch on the ignition and see if the amber check engine warning lamp comes on. If yes that means the becm and gems are talking to each other and no resync is required. If no the gems is not happy with the security code from the becm.
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Hi David i turned ignition on and the (Check engine) light does comes on mate" so i don't need to get the resync done then you think?? any ideas what it could be?? thanx for the info
 
Not sure if your engine will crank but not fire up or not crank at all. First thing is make battery is ok in terms of charge at least 12.7 V (if you have a volt meter). Assuming it does not crank, then if you have a voltmeter, measure the voltage across the battery terminals whilst trying to crank and record what voltage goes down to. If you do not have a voltmeter, switch on the interior lights and try and crank, do the interior lights dim, almost go out or do not dim at all?
If the engine cranks but does not fire, then this problem is in the engine management/fuel pump area.
Makes sure the battery is charged up. I've never shorted out the battery terminals before, but it should not cause a problem downstream. It could easily damage your battery.
 
davidg said:
I've never shorted out the battery terminals before, but it should not cause a problem downstream. It could easily damage your battery.
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Wrong unfortunately, the arcing that the short circuit creates produces voltage spikes that can damage the electronics:eek: It can also cause the battery to explode:eek::eek::eek:
 
Hi All as you know i had a electrice starting problem many thanx to all that replied to my problem, thanx to j the range its now running it turned out to be the starting motor jammed a good old tap with a hammer sorted it right out" one other thing tho if anyone can help i have only just replaced the thermostat due to over heating as you will know you lose some of the coolint while changing the thermo i refilled system but its still over heating noticed air bubbles in the expanction tank does that sound like an air lock??? i dont seem to be losing any water which makes me think the water pump is ok??
 
pappymason said:
Hi All as you know i had a electrice starting problem many thanx to all that replied to my problem, thanx to j the range its now running it turned out to be the starting motor jammed a good old tap with a hammer sorted it right out" one other thing tho if anyone can help i have only just replaced the thermostat due to over heating as you will know you lose some of the coolint while changing the thermo i refilled system but its still over heating noticed air bubbles in the expanction tank does that sound like an air lock??? i dont seem to be losing any water which makes me think the water pump is ok??
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V8's just enjoy blowing bubbles, usually from the head gaskets or slipped liners:eek:
 
Hi can anybody tell me how to put a new question on this site I am new and I have pressed every button , I have a problem with my Range rover V8 cheers
 
Pappymason, glad you got the vehicle going.
Datatek, I half agree with you about the spikes, but automotive ecus are designed to withstand spikes, such as when the battery is disconnected when the alternator is putting out full load or the spike introduced when a battery booster (that is connected to a car) is switched off, both these potentially put 100s of volts into the cars circuits. Thats why in my opinion what Pappymasonu did should not have caused a problem downstream.
 
davidg said:
Pappymason, glad you got the vehicle going.
Datatek, I half agree with you about the spikes, but automotive ecus are designed to withstand spikes, such as when the battery is disconnected when the alternator is putting out full load or the spike introduced when a battery booster (that is connected to a car) is switched off, both these potentially put 100s of volts into the cars circuits. Thats why in my opinion what Pappymasonu did should not have caused a problem downstream.
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You jest, the power supply in the BECM is pathetic, sensitive to almost anything but a perfect 12volts. On my spares dog I can bring up all kinds of rubbish including "engine disabled" just by sparking the lead when re-connecting the battery. I can also get rid of the "engine disabled" by sparking it some more:eek:
 
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