P38A Radio buzz

Haven't been able to find this on the forum.

After my previous posts re drying things out (and everything I took out), the radio now has a permanent buzz. Even if its sitting waiting for the code to be entered, it sits there buzzing away. If I only have the grey connector plugged in, its quiet. If I plug in the brown connector, is considerably louder. I've checked the plugs themselves and they're all good.

Uploading a video to YouTube to demonstrate it but until then, any suggestions on what the issue might be? I have the Alpine unit.

I'd check the white connectors behind the lhs A pillar, in the footwell

kermit_rr said:

I'd check the white connectors behind the lhs A pillar, in the footwell

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Check in what way?

They were all 'out' and cleaned etc when I had the carpet out

I've had a similar noise wiggle the connector and it goes away, just a crap connector i think with loose terminals. Mine seemed clean enough

Exactly the same as @RisforRacingnotReverse, it goes off after a while but comes back on when the BECM is awoken.

Mark Piercy said:

Exactly the same as @RisforRacingnotReverse, it goes off after a while but comes back on when the BECM is awoken.

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Uhm. Unrelated issue?

domino said:

Uhm. Unrelated issue?

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Uhm. Same noise??

I have no idea because I have no idea what post/issue you're referring to.

The buzzing matey, the buzzing...

that's the buzzing sorted. 19 bloody wires...

Mark Piercy said:

View attachment 222900 View attachment 222901 View attachment 222902 that's the buzzing sorted. 19 bloody wires...

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Yup.

Not done my connectors yet, something to look forward to

I bought a box of solder bullet connectors that have marine grade resin to seal them.

Really not looking forward to that job and the resulting back ache.

I cured the leak into the pollen filter box with a lid that went under the metalwork. It'll never leak again and hasn't . You won't need the resin if it never leaks.

I wouldn’t replace a known to grot up connector with 19 little ones. Better off soldering them up permanently with heatshrink/grease. You’ll never need to unplug them for anything.

RangeRoller dt said:

I wouldn’t replace a known to grot up connector with 19 little ones. Better off soldering them up permanently with heatshrink/grease. You’ll never need to unplug them for anything.

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They were only put there for use on the assembly line. They never took into account the problems they cause in the future.

RangeRoller dt said:

I wouldn’t replace a known to grot up connector with 19 little ones. Better off soldering them up permanently with heatshrink/grease. You’ll never need to unplug them for anything.

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if it was a series proper landy, there wouldnt be any wires needing to be connected to anything

before you go reworking the white connector, try buying a couple of second hand door amps (of the correct part number for your car).

I got the same advice about the white connector, redid that, no improvement (even though the old connector had gangrene). It wasn't until i switched the door amp months later that the problem disappeared completely. The old door amp looks/ looked pristine, and there was no sign of damp... so presumably there was a dodgy solder joint or something

romanrob said:

before you go reworking the white connector, try buying a couple of second hand door amps (of the correct part number for your car).

I got the same advice about the white connector, redid that, no improvement (even though the old connector had gangrene). It wasn't until i switched the door amp months later that the problem disappeared completely. The old door amp looks/ looked pristine, and there was no sign of damp... so presumably there was a dodgy solder joint or something

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I guess my 'beef' with that is that everything was fine before I stripped the carpets etc out. Of course, that doesn't mean something hasn't gone wrong in the meantime.

It is, after all, a P38.

romanrob said:

before you go reworking the white connector, try buying a couple of second hand door amps (of the correct part number for your car).

I got the same advice about the white connector, redid that, no improvement (even though the old connector had gangrene). It wasn't until i switched the door amp months later that the problem disappeared completely. The old door amp looks/ looked pristine, and there was no sign of damp... so presumably there was a dodgy solder joint or something

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The amps get balanced audio from the radio & earth via those connectors. Any one of the three wires is enough to cause buzzing.

If the connectors are green & corroded then best thing is to bypass them by soldering & heat-shrinking the wires. If the amps are bad, then re-soldering the PCB should help. Much cheaper the do the soldering first.