Radiator blown

Just on way home after a weekend away with new twin axel caravan and the rad blew on p38. (2000 DHSE auto)

Ordered a bearmach one. They offered a britpart but I refused that.. Are bearmach ones ok?

It over heated while towing van home last week only the once and cooled straight down again been fine since now it over heated and popped rad. Never any problem when not towing

Is te rad the probable cause?

Thanks

They often split like that as the plastic ages. You may be lucky.

Or head gasket-refit and check that it isn't pressurising

There is a somewhat dimwitted piping network within the radiator, so the hot and cold water pipes interact and this creates strain, and eventually it fails.
If you're replacing it yourself, it's a relatively simple job, although removing the viscous fan can be a bit of a pain due to access

fanatic said:

Or head gasket-refit and check that it isn't pressurising

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On the diesel it's more often a cracked head than HGF from what I've seen, I hope he's lucky and it's just the RAD

While you have the RAD out, change the water pump and stat, also check the viscous fan is OK.

Datatek said:

While you have the RAD out, change the water pump and stat, also check the viscous fan is OK.

Click to expand...

+1

get the water pump with metal internals not plastic!! and also a genuine stat!

Rule number 1: Buy cheap buy twice!!

Thanks for all the replies. Will get a pump and stat too

Are the bearmach rads ok?

It was £300 inc vat

shaunm41 said:

Thanks for all the replies. Will get a pump and stat too

Are the bearmach rads ok?

It was £300 inc vat

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Providing it has the baffle it is

I fitted a Britpart rad just under a year ago, and have covered over 30K on it

shaunm41 said:

Thanks for all the replies. Will get a pump and stat too

Are the bearmach rads ok?

It was £300 inc vat

Click to expand...

Expensive but OK.

How will I know if it has the baffle?

Way to expensive you could get the viscous water pump and stat for that try this one I've got one nissens works fine
Famous Four - Part Information for FF003356 - Radiator - Range Rover P38A (Second Generation) 1995-2002 Models

shaunm41 said:

How will I know if it has the baffle?

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Drop a marble in though one of the hose entries, tilt the RAD and see if you can make it come out of the other hose entry, if it does, the RAD is NBG, if it doesn't it should be OK.

Grit Valve said:

Way to expensive you could get the viscous water pump and stat for that try this one I've got one nissens works fine
Famous Four - Part Information for FF003356 - Radiator - Range Rover P38A (Second Generation) 1995-2002 Models

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Can beat that

Radiator P38 2.5TD (Manual & Auto) PCC108460 PCC108470 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

TCubed said:

Can beat that

Radiator P38 2.5TD (Manual & Auto) PCC108460 PCC108470 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

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Aw nice even cheaper, same make too .
Almost the cost of a water pump there.

Every little helps .... No that's tesco

Replaced rad, thermostat and header tank expansion cap.. But its stil heading up towards red line.. viscous Fan doesn't seem to kick in anymore, But an electric fan at front kicks in instead..

Perhaps the fan packed in causing the initial problem? Both rad hoses get hot so im assuming its flowing ok..

shaunm41 said:

Replaced rad, thermostat and header tank expansion cap.. But its stil heading up towards red line.. viscous Fan doesn't seem to kick in anymore, But an electric fan at front kicks in instead..

Perhaps the fan packed in causing the initial problem? Both rad hoses get hot so im assuming its flowing ok..

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Duff viscous fan is a common problem, take a tightly rolled newspaper and with the engine up to temperature stick the newspaper into the fan blades (mind your hand), if the fan slows or stops it's shot.
Electric rans are comming on with the overheat. Fit my mod to bring on the fans as cooling before it overheats and you needn't bother to replace the viscous, just remove it and the cowl.

Even with temp up about 3/4 I can stop the fan with my hand... Although it locks in briefly when first started like it used to do..

I put my hand on the rad and it was hot but not burning hot. Where does the viscous fan get its reading from?

Only one electric fan out of the 2 works, Is this right?

shaunm41 said:

Even with temp up about 3/4 I can stop the fan with my hand... Although it locks in briefly when first started like it used to do..

I put my hand on the rad and it was hot but not burning hot. Where does the viscous fan get its reading from?

Only one electric fan out of the 2 works, Is this right?

Click to expand...

If you can stop the viscous then it's fecked, if you look on the front of the viscous there is a coiled bi-metallic strip that uses the heat from the RAD to engage the fan. Both electric fans should operate at full speed on an overheat.

Thanks for that. I've got a load of spares so will get swapping stuff see if I can make it right.