Disco 2 r380 woes.

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stuu

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,949
Location
Aberdeenshire
so heres my story.
194000 td5 2002 facelift manual.
one night reversed from my workshop got stuck in reverse.
kicked it out and drove home fine.
occasional grind from 1st 2nd if rushed and 5th wouldn't engage engine on or off. (old gearbox)

got a 2nd hand box at the ready.

took my old unit out found solid flywheel conversion like near new so left the clutch undisturbed.

on my old bellhousing i didnt have the nylon block on the clutch arm piviot, donor box did so i used it.

now back together. sat still clutch down 1st 2nd 3rd grinds. once its grinded it wont again untill you lift clutch again.
4th 5th and reverse fine.

same story while driving.

clutch feels exactly like it did before box swap.

spigot bearing and release bearings in like new condition.

now im at a loss. can i get some input or suggestions please
 
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Well if the clutch wasn't changed because you decided it looked like near new and you didn't disturb it to check either, you might deduce that despite this it must actually be the clutch.

However, assuming you are correct and the clutch is good and everything else is where it should be, have you checked your clutch master and slave cylinders?
It sounds like you are possibly not disengaging the clutch sufficiently, which if this has appeared after a long period of relatively good gear changing, may be a slave or master seal problem.
Try bleeding first and if the gear changes improve consider seal kits and an overhaul.

Can't understand why you don't get 5th though, especially if you get other gears. Can't you get it into 5th at all?

Hopefully it will be something simple otherwise it's a gearbox issue on both boxes.
I believe the reverse gear selection and a number of others are influenced by the condition of bushings on the selector mechanism. There are loads of threads on here about gear selection woes i'm afraid but I have no specific r380 experience myself.
 
Last edited:
Well if the clutch wasn't changed because you decided it looked like near new and you didn't disturb it to check either, you might deduce that despite this it must actually be the clutch.

However, assuming you are correct and the clutch is good and everything else is where it should be, have you checked your clutch master and slave cylinders?
It sounds like you are possibly not disengaging the clutch sufficiently, which if this has appeared after a long period of relatively good gear changing, may be a slave or master seal problem.
Try bleeding first and if the gear changes improve consider seal kits and an overhaul.

Can't understand why you don't get 5th though, especially if you get other gears. Can't you get it into 5th at all?

Hopefully it will be something simple otherwise it's a gearbox issue on both boxes.
I believe the reverse gear selection and a number of others are influenced by the condition of bushings on the selector mechanism. There are loads of threads on here about gear selection woes i'm afraid but I have no specific r380 experience myself.
He said "4th, 5th and reverse all fine" so he can get it into 5th now. But the grind, does that occur when you put your foot on the clutch or not. If it does than it sounds like thrust bearing. If it just graunches on going into gear then is likely to be a syncro problem. Have you tried pausing in neutral before going from one gear to another? If not, have you tried double-declutching and does that make it any better?
By the way +1 to ^^^ on all clutch related items. Most cars and trucks of a certain age graunch going 1sr to 2nd. The syncro on them wears out first. But on re-reading this it does sound like selector probs as @Bantam1 said.
 
i think iv come to the theory of bad 2nd hand box.
even a 2mph roll engine off clutch down 1st 2nd amd 3rd crunches
so....
workshops set up engine hoist straps.
interiors still apart.
6 wheel trolly to roll box under
may sound a mission but for the little timr it will take if i throw my old box in and it gets 1st 2nd 3rd stationary il just buy another gearbox find a running breaker i can drive before buying if possibe.
 
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