R380 drain plug

Hello all,

Still busy trying to fix oil leaks (engine and transfer box) on my late 2005 TD5 Landmark before going to France at the weekend. Whilst laying under the beast today trying to spot the source of the multitude of leaks I thought I'd change the gearbox oil as I have some MTF95 in the shed. Problem is, however hard I tried, I cannot get the sump plug off. Either the oil has not been drained in the last 136K miles or when Land Rover last did it they decided to do it up tight!

Cannot get a socket onto it (although I may be able to soon as the transfer box has to come out as one of the big oil leaks is from the intermediate shaft O ring seal at the front end). Can anybody tell me what size the drain plug/nut is please as I will go and borrow a spanner to fit rather than a big adjustable that I have tried to use today!

BTW, I cannot help but feel that the 5W30 that I have put in to the engine has increased the amount of leaks as I am assuming it had 10W40 in it beforehand. Anybody had similar issues?

Many thanks, Julian

on a late box it should be a 3/8 square drive, but early type is 1 1/4 or 32mm

On the r380 I think it'll be 32mm, if its the same as the d1 box.

One trick I used on my d1 was to use a massive draper pro spanner with trolly jack pushing it tight. You'll probably find that the drain plug will take the weight of the whole vehicle without undoing. Use a heatgun or small blowtorch to warm the casing up. It will shift, be careful with heat/fire obviously. And watch the vehicle doesn't 'drop' if the spanner is taking weight when the thread brakes.

Edit - make sure you can get the fill plug out first!

Hi all,

Thanks for replies. Tried the jacking up method today but just managed to jack the entire vehicle up!! It's on real tight. Will try some heat tomorrow, but thanks for the size - I used calipers on my adjustable and came up with 32mm, but always good to confirm. It's not helped by the fact that somebody has already had a 'real go' at the nut so having to be careful to avoid rounding off.

Why so tight!!!

whacking the spanner with a large hammer should help

Large ring spanner

Yeah if all else fails give it a smack and set it on fire

If you use flame make sure the box is dry heh, flash fires 2 inch from your face ain't good!

Mine is a 3/8 square and just as tight. I have just destroyed a 3/8 square drive ratchet (it was a cheap one). I have got to come up with a stronger better method.

aviator said:

Mine is a 3/8 square and just as tight. I have just destroyed a 3/8 square drive ratchet (it was a cheap one). I have got to come up with a stronger better method.

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Breaker bar ?

Is it not possible to use one of these - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/60W-12V-...4f5eaaceb5736292d5ef|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2334524

If it's the earlier type, i.e. the 32mm hex head, there's also a washer in there (part FTC4112). Most (myself included) forget about this until it's too late and since it's not the kind of washer that most DIY mechanics will have lying around, it will end up reused and the bolt over tightened to compensate. If it's the newer type of plug, then it will most likely have thread locker on it. Heat will help, even if you had to take the vehicle for a good spin, which would also warm up the oil to help with draining. Just remember to let the metal cool down before you apply the tightening torque.

Nice big pair of stilsons

or put the spanner on there and give it a kick

Trouble is it is only 3/8 square and they are not very strong. I have just bought a 1/2 to 3/8 square drive adaptor and will try that on a breaker bar tomorrow. I wanted an impact one as that would be stronger but Toolstation hadn't got one in stock.

Dippypud said:

Breaker bar ?

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Yes going to try with a 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor.

Just sneak up on it ...

Dippypud said:

Just sneak up on it ...

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Ouch!!!!