Quick Disco question

For a variety of reasons, the Rangie is going to have to go sometime before
the summer, so I've been having a quiet look at a few alternatives. So far
these have been 300 series Disco autos, early and late models. Couple of
quick queries for the Discoholics out there:

Are all the 300 engines mechanical (ie not computerised)? I'd heard that
the latest ones had some form of ECU engine management, but it could be a
myth.

Is the ZF autobox the same or similar to that used in the RRC?

Is there any foolproof way to tell if the timing belt modification has been
done? (Bear in mind that anyone can put a blob of paint on an engine.) Is
this an issue on all 300Tdis, or did LR fix it towards the end? Is the
redesigned pulley assembly a complete solution, or would a Zeus kit be a
better option long-term?

Had a drive in one today (R-reg 300 auto) and liked the car, but there was a
whistling noise noticeable on slack throttle which went away when a load was
applied. Sounded just like a squeaky fanbelt, but after the drive we stood
with the bonnet up and the engine idling and what was a minor noise when in
the car became a loud squeaky chattery noise from the front of the engine,
which got worse the longer we let it idle. It seemed to be coming from the
belt tensioner, which was waggling with the movement of the belt and the
noise seemed to match the movement, IYSWIM. Seller said the tensioner was
the problem (this made sense from what I saw) and he would fix it before
sale. Known and simple issue, or total bollocks?

All help gratefully received! Cheers.

--

Rich

Pas d'elle yeux Rhone que nous

Richard Brookman wrote:
> For a variety of reasons, the Rangie is going to have to go sometime
> before the summer, so I've been having a quiet look at a few
> alternatives. So far these have been 300 series Disco autos, early
> and late models. Couple of quick queries for the Discoholics out
> there:
> Are all the 300 engines mechanical (ie not computerised)? I'd heard
> that the latest ones had some form of ECU engine management, but it
> could be a myth.
>
> Is the ZF autobox the same or similar to that used in the RRC?
>
> Is there any foolproof way to tell if the timing belt modification
> has been done? (Bear in mind that anyone can put a blob of paint on
> an engine.) Is this an issue on all 300Tdis, or did LR fix it
> towards the end? Is the redesigned pulley assembly a complete
> solution, or would a Zeus kit be a better option long-term?
>
> Had a drive in one today (R-reg 300 auto) and liked the car, but
> there was a whistling noise noticeable on slack throttle which went
> away when a load was applied. Sounded just like a squeaky fanbelt,
> but after the drive we stood with the bonnet up and the engine idling
> and what was a minor noise when in the car became a loud squeaky
> chattery noise from the front of the engine, which got worse the
> longer we let it idle. It seemed to be coming from the belt
> tensioner, which was waggling with the movement of the belt and the
> noise seemed to match the movement, IYSWIM. Seller said the
> tensioner was the problem (this made sense from what I saw) and he
> would fix it before sale. Known and simple issue, or total bollocks?
> All help gratefully received! Cheers.


You got a P38 for sale matey?

Detaiols if so, would be handy!

Nige (after a P38)

--
Subaru WRX (The Bitch)

Series 3 Landrover 88" (Albert)

"If you tolerate this then your children will be next"

So Nige was, like

> Richard Brookman wrote:
>> For a variety of reasons, the Rangie is going to have to go sometime
>> before the summer, so I've been having a quiet look at a few
>> alternatives. >
>
> You got a P38 for sale matey?
>
> Detaiols if so, would be handy!
>
> Nige (after a P38)

Nige

I'll mail you off-group.


--

Rich

Pas d'elle yeux Rhone que nous

On or around Fri, 18 Feb 2005 19:38:53 -0000, "Richard Brookman"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>For a variety of reasons, the Rangie is going to have to go sometime before
>the summer, so I've been having a quiet look at a few alternatives. So far
>these have been 300 series Disco autos, early and late models. Couple of
>quick queries for the Discoholics out there:
>
>Are all the 300 engines mechanical (ie not computerised)? I'd heard that
>the latest ones had some form of ECU engine management, but it could be a
>myth.

late-model 300s (especially autos, I think) have a modified pump with EDC.
You can tell by the presence of an airflow meter between the aircleaner and
the turbo.

also on engine numbers: auto with EDC is 19L, manual is 17L.

HBOL doesn't list power/torque separately, but ISTR that the EDC autos have
more of both.

>Is the ZF autobox the same or similar to that used in the RRC?

same, near enough

>Is there any foolproof way to tell if the timing belt modification has been
>done? (Bear in mind that anyone can put a blob of paint on an engine.) Is
>this an issue on all 300Tdis, or did LR fix it towards the end? Is the
>redesigned pulley assembly a complete solution, or would a Zeus kit be a
>better option long-term?

not really. cover off, inspect belt... on one without full history of belt
changes, change it anyway - if it's been changed by a reputable lot, then
run it 'til the next change - 36K miles seems a good interval.


>Had a drive in one today (R-reg 300 auto) and liked the car, but there was a
>whistling noise noticeable on slack throttle which went away when a load was
>applied. Sounded just like a squeaky fanbelt, but after the drive we stood
>with the bonnet up and the engine idling and what was a minor noise when in
>the car became a loud squeaky chattery noise from the front of the engine,
>which got worse the longer we let it idle. It seemed to be coming from the
>belt tensioner, which was waggling with the movement of the belt and the
>noise seemed to match the movement, IYSWIM. Seller said the tensioner was
>the problem (this made sense from what I saw) and he would fix it before
>sale. Known and simple issue, or total bollocks?

serpentine belt tensioner is known to fail. It's not too expensive and an
easy fix - 15mm socket on a big long bar, take the tension off the belt,
unhook belt from alternator, remove 15mm nut which holds the tensioner on,
replace tensioner with new one, used 15mm and bar to lift it against the
spring, put belt back.

I've pulled the dud bearing from our old one with a view to getting a
replacement - appears to be an ordinary-looking ballrace, might be
double-row; I've naturally not gotten around to tracing the number.
Swapping the bearing looks pretty easy too, and doubtless cheaper.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"I am tired and sick of war. Its glory is all moonshine... War is hell"
Gen. Sherman (1820-1891) Attr. words in Address at Michigan Military
Academy, 19 June 1879.

"Richard Brookman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For a variety of reasons, the Rangie is going to have to go sometime
before
> the summer, so I've been having a quiet look at a few alternatives. So
far
> these have been 300 series Disco autos, early and late models. Couple of
> quick queries for the Discoholics out there:
>
> Are all the 300 engines mechanical (ie not computerised)? I'd heard that
> the latest ones had some form of ECU engine management, but it could be a
> myth.
>
> Is the ZF autobox the same or similar to that used in the RRC?
>
> Is there any foolproof way to tell if the timing belt modification has
been
> done? (Bear in mind that anyone can put a blob of paint on an engine.)
Is
> this an issue on all 300Tdis, or did LR fix it towards the end? Is the
> redesigned pulley assembly a complete solution, or would a Zeus kit be a


Hi Richard.

It is only the Automatic 300 tdis that went over to EDC (fly by wire
injection pump and airflow meter) in the UK . Those after 1996.

Yes the autobox will be the same as the RRC. ie: 300 RRC fitted with the
same autobox as the 300 Disco.

Just change the belt is the easiest way to be sure. It is only on R reg and
later that the factory started to fit the mod kit.

Yes the mod kits do the job. I have fitted probably fifty and none have
failed. Some of those are now on their second belt after the mod.
In my opinion the Zeus kit is a noisy expensive complication to an otherwise
excellent engine. Once the belt mod has been fitted you should have no
worries and also have the knowledge that you can replace any part within the
timing cover anywhere in the world without having to wait for the parts.


The belt noise is more likely to be the belt itself, they can make the most
metallic of noises, but if it is the tensioner it is not the end of the
world.

Hope this helps

So Austin Shackles was, like

> late-model 300s (especially autos, I think) have a modified pump with
> EDC. You can tell by the presence of an airflow meter between the
> aircleaner and the turbo.

Dim question - what's EDC? (Thought I knew all the LR acronyms by now.)
What does it do? Does it give trouble? Would it be better to go for an
earlier one without? Is it like EGR and best diconnected?

>> Is there any foolproof way to tell if the timing belt modification
>> has been done?

> not really. cover off, inspect belt... on one without full history
> of belt changes, change it anyway - if it's been changed by a
> reputable lot, then run it 'til the next change - 36K miles seems a
> good interval.

Makes sense.
>
> serpentine belt tensioner is known to fail. It's not too expensive
> and an easy fix - 15mm socket on a big long bar, take the tension off
> the belt, unhook belt from alternator, remove 15mm nut which holds
> the tensioner on, replace tensioner with new one, used 15mm and bar
> to lift it against the spring, put belt back.

Sounds like it's within my capabilities. Thanks. for the info

--

Rich

Pas d'elle yeux Rhone que nous

So Marc Draper was, like


> It is only the Automatic 300 tdis that went over to EDC (fly by wire
> injection pump and airflow meter) in the UK . Those after 1996.

Those are the ones I'm looking at. EDC good or bad?

> Yes the autobox will be the same as the RRC. ie: 300 RRC fitted with
> the same autobox as the 300 Disco.

I've had three ZF autos now, and I rate them highly.

>
> Just change the belt is the easiest way to be sure. It is only on R
> reg and later that the factory started to fit the mod kit.

As I said, these are the ones (R and thereabouts). Is there any way of
telling if it's been done?

> Hope this helps

It does, thanks.

--

Rich

Pas d'elle yeux Rhone que nous

So Nige was, like

> You got a P38 for sale matey?
>
> Detaiols if so, would be handy!
>
> Nige (after a P38)

Nige - mailed you last night - did it get there?

--

Rich

Pas d'elle yeux Rhone que nous

"Richard Brookman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...


> As I said, these are the ones (R and thereabouts). Is there any way of
> telling if it's been done?


No.... only by taking the cover off and having a look. you might as well
change the belt while you are at it.
--
Marc

FOR SALE : DISCOVERY II (02) SERENGETTI 7SEAT 39,000 MILES FSH
DISCOVERY II (51) GS7, ACE, SLS, CLIMATE,67,000 MILES
B.F.G AT'S
DISCOVERY TDI R REG EPSOM GREEN, 7SEATS, AC, AW.
DISCOVERY TDI M REG VAN 100,000 MILES.

On or around Sat, 19 Feb 2005 18:20:14 -0000, "Richard Brookman"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>So Austin Shackles was, like
>
>> late-model 300s (especially autos, I think) have a modified pump with
>> EDC. You can tell by the presence of an airflow meter between the
>> aircleaner and the turbo.
>
>Dim question - what's EDC? (Thought I knew all the LR acronyms by now.)
>What does it do? Does it give trouble? Would it be better to go for an
>earlier one without? Is it like EGR and best diconnected?

Electronic Diesel Control, no less. fly-by-wire. but it does that by
controlling a conventional (ish) injection pump, not common rail or unit
injector (a la TD5)

>> not really. cover off, inspect belt... on one without full history
>> of belt changes, change it anyway - if it's been changed by a
>> reputable lot, then run it 'til the next change - 36K miles seems a
>> good interval.
>
>Makes sense.
>>
>> serpentine belt tensioner is known to fail. It's not too expensive
>> and an easy fix - 15mm socket on a big long bar, take the tension off
>> the belt, unhook belt from alternator, remove 15mm nut which holds
>> the tensioner on, replace tensioner with new one, used 15mm and bar
>> to lift it against the spring, put belt back.
>
>Sounds like it's within my capabilities. Thanks. for the info

takes about 5 minutes to replace the tensioner, once you have the long
swivel handle and the 15mm socket. bit longer than that if you replace the
bearing only; I was planning on doing that to the old one so as to have a
spare.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Ask yourself whether you are happy, and you cease to be so."
John Stuart Mill (1806 - 1873)

So Nige was, like

> You got a P38 for sale matey?
>
> Detaiols if so, would be handy!
>
> Nige (after a P38)

Nige, I've sent you a couple of emails but no replies. Are you interested?
If not, let me know.

--

Rich

Pas d'elle yeux Rhone que nous