Quick clutch question?

fattyfish · Dec 13, 2013

2003 1.8 petrol freelander kalahari

My clutch has a bite point right at the bottom, I have to push the pedal hard against the floor to change gears. The car drives great with no clutch slip.

I have read on hear about the master servo kit, see ebay link LAND ROVER FREELANDER 1 - CLUTCH MASTER & SLAVE CYLINDER INC BRACKET (STC000180) | eBay

is this the part I need to make the clutch better? Also how easy is it to fit? And how long?
Thanks in advance Andy

Brack · Dec 13, 2013

Hi
You might just need a new slave cyl bracket - they take some pressure and can bend or crack, then you would have these symptoms - have a look at it before you buy the whole lot

teddywood1 · Dec 13, 2013

or if somebody has taken the lid of the master cylinder it will do the same as it is a sealed unit I replace the master/slave cylinder some time ago on the wife's as she had the same problem and corrected it and now no problems

jamesmartin · Dec 13, 2013

teddywood1 said:
or if somebody has taken the lid of the master cylinder it will do the same as it is a sealed unit I replace the master/slave cylinder some time ago on the wife's as she had the same problem and corrected it and now no problems

taking the lid off wont hurt

MadMalx · Dec 13, 2013

My 3dr is exactly the same, already replaced the master/slave cylinder assembly but it made no difference - next thing to change for me is the slave cylinder mounting bracket.

fattyfish · Dec 13, 2013

I've just purchased the kit including the new bracket. I spoke to the guy selling them on Ebay he advised it may just be the bracket but said the master/slave and bracket are a common problem. So I decided to buy and fit everything at the same time. It should be here next week so will post updates on how it goes?

What's involved in replacing it? I read the battery and air filter box needs to come off to access it? Then what???

Brack · Dec 13, 2013

fattyfish said:
I've just purchased the kit including the new bracket. I spoke to the guy selling them on Ebay he advised it may just be the bracket but said the master/slave and bracket are a common problem. So I decided to buy and fit everything at the same time. It should be here next week so will post updates on how it goes?

What's involved in replacing it? I read the battery and air filter box needs to come off to access it? Then what???

See Post #6 here
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-1-8-clutch-133250.html

Also while your at it, spray the clutch release arm (the linkage into the gearbox that the slave piston attaches to) with plenty of lube...sometimes they stiffen up and even seize...my clutch pedal was as heavy as hell to operate till I did mine.

fattyfish · Dec 13, 2013

Thanxs Brack,

The link is a great help. And will definitely be lubing the linkage will let you all know the findings?

quattro6999 · Dec 13, 2013

As a side note, always replace the pair on a freelander (old and new 'landers). I work for LuK technical, and 99% of the failures we get on these units is because only one half was replaced, the old fluid contaminates the seals which causes the failure

teddywood1 · Dec 14, 2013

jamesmartin said:
taking the lid off wont hurt

well landrover say never ever take the lid off not as this was the problem on my wife's car it was already playing up

fattyfish · Dec 31, 2013

Well finally got round to changing the clutch slave and master cylinder today

Please note I'm not a mechanic, but this is how I done it. I hope it helps others?

Original problem: I had to push the clutch pedal through the floor to get it in gear!
Solution: Change the clutch master cylinder and slave.

Disconnect and remove battery.

Next remove air filter 2 x 8mm bolts

After removing the air filter you can view the slave cylinder. Remove the plastic retaining clip that holds this in place

Next I disconnected the other end at the clutch pedal. I used a long open ended spanner to just push the end off sideways, easy and worked a treat.

Once loose from the pedal its back under the bonnet to twist and pull it through the bulk head. one quarter turn and gently pull through.

Gently pull out the whole master and slave cylinder making sure you try and remember which way the pipe is fed. "I photographed this just in case"

Next remove the old bracket by removing 3 x 13mm bolts. There are some wires that run through the bracket for a sensor I think? disconnect them and re-connect them through the new bracket then bolt the new bracket back on.

Old and new bracket.

Old and new slave end "I think"?

Next I placed the master and slave in place whilst routing the pipes as best I could the way they came out. Then connected the slave end and pushed on the plastic clip.

Then push the master back through the bulk head, Note: It has a square end that locks into the bulk head.

Hold the master approximately at 9-10 O'clock, push through the bulk head and twist back to 12 O'clock position. "This took a few minutes and is probably the hardest part of the job?

Once you get this in place its back to the pedal inside. Again I found this easy by gently pushing the pedal down slightly and sliding the end back on. Once connected re connect the air filter and battery.

The whole job took less time than it did to write this post, about 90 mins

Replacing the clutch master and slave has done the job and my clutch engages the gears much easier

its now a pleasure to drive!

Brack · Dec 31, 2013

Nice write up

Thanks for sharing.

The wires through the bracket - these operate the reverse light switch.

You can have a pint now lol... all the best for New year mate

Quick clutch question?

fattyfish

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Brack

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teddywood1

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jamesmartin

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MadMalx

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fattyfish

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Brack

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fattyfish

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