Question: What is it the dealer has to code?

Hi Guys.

My recent CB40 purchase only came with 1 set of keys. I've baught a spare 'transponder' key and a 2 button 'blipper' from my local stealership, and they tell me " it " has to be coded.

Now what is it they code, is it the key itself, (which appears to work perfectly, and starts the car) or is it the remote control 2 button 'blipper'

If it's the 'blipper' only, Is there anyway to do this cheaper than the £39+VAT they want to charge me?

Oh, another question, I want to replace the oil in the diff because I don't know when it was done last. What oil do I buy from Halfords, what do I need to look for?

Thanks guys!

I'm willing to be proved wrong but the keys have a transponder in them for the immobiliser and the two button thingy does the alarm. Most good car alarm specialists will be able to quote you happy.

Oil wise take your pick, the only thing is it must meet acea b3 specification, the handbook only states this as well as it being either 10w 40 or 15w 40, you can use other viscosities - i am using 5w 40 this weekend in my oil change...

By the way we aren't BMW drivers on here and dont usually refer to our cars by the internal project/build name, i work with a guy who constantly refers to his car as an "e21" to anyone that will listen and no one has a clue what he is one about - stick to the term freelander!

Sorry didn't read your post properly i was talking about engine oil the diff takes either ep 80 or 90 or multigrade75/90 to gl5 i think somone here will tell you, or look it up on RAVE if you can still download it...

The key AND the plipper need to be coded.

Lots of people can code the plipper, but the key needs to be ordered from Germany (main dealer) for your Freelander.

However, I've been told by Dakar that you can start the car without the transponder in the key as long as you turn the ignition key within a certain amount of time of unlocking the car with the plipper as the immobiliser is disabled by the alarm for a short while.

I've not tested this theory, but technically, you could simply remove the immobiliser chip from the key and try it...

$40 is about the going rate for a reprogramme I'm afraid...

Fake Elvis said:

Sorry didn't read your post properly i was talking about engine oil the diff takes either ep 80 or 90 or multigrade75/90 to gl5 i think somone here will tell you, or look it up on RAVE if you can still download it...

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Fake Elvis is right 75W/9O API GL5 for the IRD make sure you crack off the drain plug first ! and 80W/90 GL5 for the FINAL DRIVE no drain plug i syphoned my old oil out !

"" I've been told .... that you can start the car without the transponder in the key as long as you turn the ignition key within a certain amount of time of unlocking the car with the plipper as the immobiliser is disabled by the alarm for a short while. ""


Thought I'd try this, unlocked the car with original blipper, got in, inserted replacement key, turned and she fired. Stopped the engine, got out, locked her with the original blipper. I waited 60 seconds, opened the door manually with replacement key, got it, and still using the replacement key, she fired.

Could it be that the replacement key, which on the packaging had my chassis number, and denoted as "KEY 03", is already programmed?

Thanks for the tip about the Diff oil fella's, I can go ahead now.

I sometimes refer to my vehicle as CB40 because that's what her designation is. I certainly prefer that to calling her a 'Landy' or worse some of the names used by some Defender owners when rudely refering to the softroader in the Land Rover line-up.

I have longstanding connections with Land Rover and know some of the range by their code names or numbers. I don't mean any disrespect to the vehicle.

I used to like UB 40 we live and learn

When I ordered a new key and fob for my previous hse i picked it up from the dealer still packaged as it had arrived to them from germany, i took it out of the packing and it worked, dealer never touched it! As yours has been ordered in the same way it will already be setup to your car... happy days lol

Markyzs180 wrote: "" I took it out of the packing and it worked, dealer never touched it! As yours has been ordered in the same way it will already be setup to your car... happy days ""

So, this brings me back, but to a different question. Is it the 'blipper' they have to code?

I get the impression, that unlike just changing the battery in an otherwise operational/original 'blipper' that came with your car, and re-sync'ing it as per the owners handbook, that when you buy a 'Virgin' one from the stealership, they have to do an initial synchronization to your car... would that be correct?

My head is beginning to hurt now...........

Ian jones said:

Fake Elvis is right 75W/9O API GL5 for the IRD make sure you crack off the drain plug first ! and 80W/90 GL5 for the FINAL DRIVE no drain plug i syphoned my old oil out !

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You need to undo the ird filler plug first. If you can't undo it, then your stuffed if the drain plug has been removed first.