Propshafts again.

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Dopey_1983

Dopey_1983

New Member
Posts
314
Location
Aberdeenshire
Hi all, Now that I am in a condition to start doing some work on my 110 I was going to start with replacing the uj on the rear prop so I climbed underneath and now I find that the front uj on the front prop has a bit of play and so does the joint in the front propshaft seems to have a bit of play in it as well. So my question is do I replace just the front propshaft or do I change both as I believe the old one would be about the same age?

Thanks for any help.
 
Why dunt ya just change the UJ's go to an agricultural engineering place or a bearing manufacturers for they'll be cheaper that way. All you need to change em is a big vice.
 
I was just wondering if I would be as well changing the rear prop while I changed the front one as the front has quite a bit of play at the sliding joint bitty.
 
Hi could somone please advise as to how much play there should be in the sliding joint bitty of the propshaft as I am not sure if it does need replaced.

Thanks
 
Shunt be any play in the slidey bit. If you go for replacing the UJs go for Hardy Spicer ones regardless of where you get em from. I'd weigh up the pros an cons for replaceing the UJs or the whole shaft. !5 minutes and eight bolts per shaft job done. Or if the owld UJs won't come out of its yokes then it could take all day to do one and if they will come out then add an extra hour per shaft for replacing both UJs.
 
Just to add my two penn'orth - this comes from today's experience ;)

1. Make sure you are parked on level ground - sounds obvious, but can be overlooked :eek:

2. A pair of 9/16" combi spanners, 1 large and 1 small is the easiest way to remove prop.

3. Chock 3 wheels with heavy rocks and jack up one of the wheels on axle you are changing prop on. Make sure in neutral with handbrake off. This is because you can only get to 2 of the bolts (unless you're mega spawny and can get to 3) and will need to spin a wheel to rotate prop round to a position where a mere mortal can undo the bolts.

4. Make sure there is plenty of beer on hand for when the job is completed, particularly if it is warm and sunny ;)
 
There seems to be quite a bit of play in the slidey bit and at least one of the front ujs and at I have now noticed that both ujs on the rear propshaft are knackered so I think I will just replace the both props.

Is there anything else I need to know about doing this or is it just unbolt old one and bolt new one on. Do I need to balance it or anything?
 
They will come balanced. When I came to put mine back on I picked it up by the male end and it came apart, there are some very small arrows as alignment marks so they go back together in the right way, it might be an idea to find these marks before you do owt else and make them more obvious.In a couple of year s you won't be able to see them an you nivver know. Also the male end goes to the front of the vehicle on both props.
 
Do a search someone posted a link to a site that explains the numbers. If you can't find it Famous Four have a bit on their site explaning it. Its the one that starts SAL and has about a brazilion numbers an letters in it. Reet am of to pub.
 
Take5 said:
Just to add my two penn'orth - this comes from today's experience ;)

1. Make sure you are parked on level ground - sounds obvious, but can be overlooked :eek:

2. A pair of 9/16" combi spanners, 1 large and 1 small is the easiest way to remove prop.

3. Chock 3 wheels with heavy rocks and jack up one of the wheels on axle you are changing prop on. Make sure in neutral with handbrake off. This is because you can only get to 2 of the bolts (unless you're mega spawny and can get to 3) and will need to spin a wheel to rotate prop round to a position where a mere mortal can undo the bolts.

4. Make sure there is plenty of beer on hand for when the job is completed, particularly if it is warm and sunny ;)
Click to expand...

yer right bout jacking wheel up , when i done mine i had someone in it moving me 90 along while i was trying to line up the holes , i was halfway down the street til i realized , wot a plum !!
 
Just a couple of pictures of what a prop and UJ should not look like. This fell apart during removal (I should've done this weeks ago).
 

Attachments

  • prop.jpg
    prop.jpg
    77.9 KB · Views: 158
  • UJ.jpg
    UJ.jpg
    105.5 KB · Views: 162
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Disco 2 Centre diff lock
Replies
9
Views
566
sierrafery
sierrafery
R
Ex military 90 soft top 1994 - 300TDi conversion
Replies
7
Views
598
ChristopherDailey
C
Benny_Boy
Ouch Front headliners are expensive
Replies
1
Views
283
Knappster
Knappster
Acdadefender1
Steering box drop arm play
Replies
18
Views
1K
Flossie
Flossie
B
3rd new front diff reqd in 5 years
Replies
16
Views
745
300bhp/ton
300bhp/ton
Back
Top