P38A Prop Shaft Universal Joints

I need to change the universal joints on the front prop shaft however I wanted to see if anyone has replaced them with basic tools rather than a press machine?

Thanks.

Lukas018 said:

I need to change the universal joints on the front prop shaft however I wanted to see if anyone has replaced them with basic tools rather than a press machine?

Thanks.

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Very easy job. A good vice is all you need. But with care a good G cramp and a couple of suitable sockets would do it. Providing you have something to grip them with when half way out to twist them out fully. Depends how tight they are. Don't go banging them on reassembly. You do not want needles dropping out.

This is bit long winded but will show you everything, including how to sort problems you may encounter. Shows with a press, then a vice -

I've always used a vice and a couple of sockets, an extra pair of hands is useful too

did mine with a vice

I've done it on a D90 with a hammer and two sockets, but I would not want to do it again. The lesson I learnt was that when it stops going back in, don't get a bigger hammer, it is because one of the rollers has come loose. Take it apart again, re-seat the loose roller, re-pack with grease to hold it together, and try again. Much better with a large vice. Also make sure you have a decent pair of circlip pliers, not one of those with a range of different heads.

Kev12 said:

I've always used a vice and a couple of sockets, an extra pair of hands is useful too

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Cant put this off any longer got to do it before I climb that wooden hill. So these extra hands of yours are they on the same arms or do you have extra of those as well ? Now thats off my chest its bed time.

I watch that video before seems a very good guide, got a G-clamp and no vice but sure I can improvise. Thanks for help.

Lukas018 said:

I watch that video before seems a very good guide, got a G-clamp and no vice but sure I can improvise. Thanks for help.

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Without a vice to hold prop in it will be a bit of a pain.

Lukas018 said:

I watch that video before seems a very good guide, got a G-clamp and no vice but sure I can improvise. Thanks for help.

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My advise is don't bother. I did a post on it with 3 videos, maybe 6 months ago?

The circlips can be an utter f***er to get out. Even soaking in Plusgas overnight I banged the ends off trying to loosen them up with a chisel.

You probably can do it with a G-clamp if you have a King-Kong grip. Mine were enough of a sod using a vice. So first time? I'd say vice or forget it.

Next time I think I'll just save myself a lot of hassle and drop a whole new prop in. Not ****part though, they don't even look like the original.

Grrrrrr said:

I'd say vice or forget it.

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I agree ^^^^
Get , or borrow someone's, vice (even without bench) you don't want to be knocking the shaft on things if it gets tight as they are balanced. Vice will hold it 'just right' as you tap it about. I've done loads and loads of UJ's on site without proper tools.

Vice without Gcramp will be okay, Gcramp without vice is looking for trouble
@Grrrrrr post a link of the thread you made up here, missed that one and might help others that find this

Here you go

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/hardy-spicers-ujs.333956/

A search for Hardy-Spicer using my username should be successful.

If circlips are tight, a hammer and punch to push the cup into the yoke, will loosen the circlip

freelance said:

If for lips are tight, a hammer and punch to push the cup into the yoke, will loosen the circlip

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Yup, and a pointed punch angled into one of the holes and tapped towards the center will help free it further.

In vice add heat to outside part with a burner. Less need of banging it then.
Be patient, gentle yet firm. Like you would a nice lady with tight lips

Si Click said:

Yup, and a pointed punch angled into one of the holes and tapped towards the center will help free it further.

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Mine were rusted solid. Nothing was moving them. Were? Still are. I fixed the bust one and left the rest until they start giving trouble. Then I'll drill the f*ckers if I have to.

Mine aren't too bad, think front shaft has been replaced at some point, rear looks original - back diff end looks like it was grown in a cave . Managed get some grease in it and it's loosened, no chance of changing that UJ though shaft end is too far gone. Think it's too late and already started eating the Tbox seal Il just keep Tbox topped up for now

Just buy the whole GNK assembly. Not a bad price last time I looked. Somewhere between £100 and £150, iirc.

Grrrrrr said:

Here you go

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/hardy-spicers-ujs.333956/

A search for Hardy-Spicer using my username should be successful.

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You should have just put that up first as last
Got all socket sizes/dimensions/part No., everything. Best P38 specific UJ thread I've ever come across and a common problem most owners will need at some point.

Grrrrrr said:

Just buy the whole GNK assembly. Not a bad price last time I looked. Somewhere between £100 and £150, iirc.

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How the rich live