Project Series 2A

Tinribs · Apr 8, 2008

Finally managed to get some pain killing injections (jeesis they hurt) for my back a week ago so finally felt up to starting work on my series 2a. It's surprising what you can get done in a couple of hours with a few spanners. Managed to get the cab off, the floor up, the seatbox out and the rear tub off and only had to grind off three bolts and two of those were only cause I had the grinder in my hand at the time. It probably helped that some previous bodger had seen fit to leave about half the nuts and bolts not fitted whenever it was last took apart.

Looks like this is gonna be a full rebuild......

Tinribs · Apr 27, 2008

Had another good day on the landy today. Pressure washed off most of the crap from the gearbox and then got the whole gearbox removed. I'm so glad that I ain't driving this about anymore, can't believe how many nuts and bolts are missing not to mention other shoddy work carried out by previous owners. Found the cross shaft going into the clutch had been welded up before but was now cracking again - that would have been fun had it sheared when waiting in traffic. Gearbox is now out with oil coming out of both ends and wobbely input and output shafts - full overhaul needed.

Tinribs · May 27, 2008

This lot of work was done back at the may day bank holiday. Went out and got myself a new cheap parts washer and set about dismantling the gearbox. The hand brake was full of ****ty oil thanks to the knacker seal. Oil in the transfer box was contaminated with water- no suprise there! It all came apart easily enough and there were no obvious major problems with the expensive bits inside, just some rumble in the worn bearings. Parts washer worked a treat.

Tinribs · May 27, 2008

The workings of a gearbox were a total mystery to me, so I was looking forward to taking this on apart to see what I could learn. What I did learn was that I seem to have become allergic to parrafin all of a sudden so not only is it good at cleaning bit off gearbox, it also removes my skin despite barrier cream and those useless gloves that rip before you get them on, and disolve when you get them dirty. Again, there were no major problems in the gearbox apart from worn bearings and seals, looks like I have got to it in time before major headache. Worse bit was the reverse gear that had the odd corner chipped off the teeth. I think I know how it all works now!

loiner1965 · May 27, 2008

really interesting.....please keep us informed how it goes esp newbies like me

jonteewilly · May 27, 2008

nice one tinribs this is what we need plenty of pics and enthusiasm,brilliant..

mudmuncher · May 29, 2008

Fair play to you mate, enjoying this thread please keep the pics comming very interesting

oldmansoul · Jun 26, 2008

Well done,looking forward to see more pics. Presently looking for a 2a to restore myself,difficult to find a brittish built one in south africa

jhoulston · Jun 28, 2008

Tinribs,

Great to see what you are doing as I'm about to go throught the same thing in a couple of weeks. What I'm interested in is, did you still have fuel in the petrol tank?

I want to strip rear tub off / seat box / wings / bonnet for tidying up and painting but still need a running engine so it can go for a service while i'm doing the bodywork. Do you think I could get away with this? Just concerned about removing the fuel pipe from rear tub etc.

James.

Tinribs · Jun 29, 2008

jhoulston said:
Tinribs,

Great to see what you are doing as I'm about to go throught the same thing in a couple of weeks. What I'm interested in is, did you still have fuel in the petrol tank?

I want to strip rear tub off / seat box / wings / bonnet for tidying up and painting but still need a running engine so it can go for a service while i'm doing the bodywork. Do you think I could get away with this? Just concerned about removing the fuel pipe from rear tub etc.

James.

Yes, I still had petrol in the tank. All I did was tape over the filler and breather holes on the tank. This is NOT totally safe, so don't blame me if you become engulfed in flames please! It was drivable by sitting on the petrol tank, taking care not to get wrapped up by the prop shafts and handbrake spinning so close by. You get a great view of how much the suspension moves if you can take it for a spin over some rough ground as I did, only I then ran out of petrol and had to push the 2A back to the workshop.

Tinribs · Jul 13, 2008

Just incase you think I've been sat on me arse doing nowt for the past few weeks, today I finished the gearbox rebuild........ I hope. I'll put the pics up in a few days, if I survive my surgery and stay in hospital.........I hope.

Tinribs · Jul 24, 2008

Well, I survived not only the surgen, but also the dried blood and **** encrusted floor of the room that the last patient and NHS had left for me.
Anyway, I looked around for gearbox parts and it appeared buying individual bits from the usual outlets was going to be more expensive than buying some of the kits I had seen advertised. I'm sure I could have saved more money by buying the bearings and seals from local firms that the farm uses (and hopefully get a discount) but I didn't then want the hassel of ordering every last little shim, o ring and spring on their own.
One firm didn't even respond to my email about the rebuild kit they advertised, so I won't be sending them much business. It really does baffle me how some companys turn a blind eye to people keen to be their customers. Maybe they're making enough money already?
I then spotted Land Rover Engine Gearbox Steering Brake Parts advertising parts and kits for all types of transmissions. I had a look round their confusing website but could not see a kit for a series gearbox. So I sent them an email and very soon had a reply that they hadn't sold a series kit for so long they weren't on the website or in stock, but that they would be happy to put me a kit together. A few days later, they emailed to say the kit was ready if I wanted it. I put the order in at 3pm, and it was on my doorstep at 08.30 the next morning. The total price was a few pence less than the other company that ignored my request was advertising its kit for before a big lump of vat and delivery were added. Good service for once.

However, it was a couple of weeks later I found that my gearbox was fitted with the small layshaft bearing and I'd been sent the later large one. Bugger!
I think there is some evidence to suggest that my gearbox has had some tinkering done to it before and is prehaps a bit of a bitza so maybe the serial number on the outside didn't match what was inside.

Sean · Jul 24, 2008

how much was the kit - and what's included mr tinman ?

clivees · Jul 28, 2008

Price please and is yours a series 2 box ie no syncro-mech on 1st and 2nd ?

Tinribs · Jul 31, 2008

My gearbox is the series 2 type that is non-syncro between 1st and 2nd, although the kit that was sent to me contained parts for a fully syncro box. I gave them the number I found on the gearbox casing which is 06107554, anyone know if that is the correct number for such a gearbox? Prehaps they sell one kit to cover both boxes or something, or just buggered up?
I bought a gearbox kit, a transfer box kit, a gasket kit to cover both boxes, and a replacement mainshaft nut, all for around £148 including VAT and P&P. The other kit I saw advertised was £150 BEFORE Vat and P&p were added on.
Off the top of my head, the gearbox kit included; primary pinion bearing, front mainshaft roller bearing, mainshaft main ball bearing, front layshaft bearing (too big for my box), rear layshaft bearing, 3rd/4th syncro hub springs X3, 3rd & 2nd gear brass sleeve, thrust washer, split ring, layshaft bearing retainer lock tab (too big for my box), mainshaft oil seal, oilseal (not used, prehaps for later type clutch release?), seals for selector shafts, selector shaft detent springs, reverse selector gate springs. The kit also had 2 brass syncro cones which I presume are for 1st/2nd on a later gearbox, i'll have to sell them to my mate, or buy a s111.
The transfer box kit contained; rear mainshaft roller bearing, intermediate gear roller bearing X2, main output shaft bearing, rear output shaft bearing, front output shaft bearing, intermediate gear thrust washers X2, front and rear output oilseals, speedo oilseal, mainshaft thrust washer and locktab, dtent spring, various o ring seals, output shaft washer and felt seal.
The gasket kit covered both boxes.
Like I said before, I'm sure I could have sourced the bearings cheaper from companies the farm deals with, but the bearings in the kit appear to be of the better makes and not the cheaper alternatives that are available.

Tinribs · Jul 31, 2008

Before the mainshaft could be built up, I had to check the end float of the 2nd and 3rd gears. As a new brass sleeve was fitted (two piece as opposed to the original one piece), the end float was too little as the sleeve was a little too long. This was corrected by rubbing down the ends of the sleeve on a facing plate covered with fine emery paper until the correct end float could be achieved. The gear assembly was then held in place with a new split ring.
I also replaced the springs in the 3rd/4th gear syncro hub by pushing the old ones out with a scewdriver and feeding the new ones in. It was only once the old ones were out that the wear on them could be seen, and how much more powerful the new ones were in action.

matt-unsworth · Aug 4, 2008

jhoulston said:
Tinribs,

Great to see what you are doing as I'm about to go throught the same thing in a couple of weeks. What I'm interested in is, did you still have fuel in the petrol tank?

I want to strip rear tub off / seat box / wings / bonnet for tidying up and painting but still need a running engine so it can go for a service while i'm doing the bodywork. Do you think I could get away with this? Just concerned about removing the fuel pipe from rear tub etc.

James.

You should be fine as Long as you respect you have an Open Petrol tank for when you are welding the chassis (If you are). Well if you do ever need to carry out some work what involves sparks or excessive heat, Throw a cold wet towel over the tank. Also when you take the Filler and breather pipe off. Pop a Durex over the Filler tube of the tank (Ribbed or not doesnt matter

) And Probably best to leave the breather open.. just get a plastic bag cut a piece off and cover the breather tube up and wrap an elastic band around it and piece the plastic that way it can still breeth but not get any ****e in the tank when working

bogtrotter · Aug 6, 2008

Great pics. Am inspired and daunted in equal measures! Though it must be said i'm truly envious at the facilities you have. Can only just squeeze the truck cab roof into my tiny London garden!

waz15zer · Sep 19, 2008

Excellent thread. My son has been given a series 2a '71 by his uncle. Everything about it is fine apart from the dreaded chassis rot. Will be watching this develop as time goes on.

stevetd5 · Oct 23, 2008

Hi great to see photos as I'm planning to do a rebuild. Try mortuary gloves they are like heavy duty surgical gloves, quite tough and still allow you to feel what's going on unlike heavy rubber chemical resistant ones.

Project Series 2A

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