Probably more of a confession but..

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Posts
35
Location
Lancs
I have a 53 plate td4 with 139,000 on the clock and have to admit she's been neglected over the last few years, 6 CD player broken, aircon failed and central locking aside it gets me where I need to be, however in the last 12 months she's had, all rear bushes and bearings, calipers, discs and rear shoes, brake lines, full silicone hose kit and drop links.
It was smokey under acceleration but now theres just a little on starting up, now the bad bit, it's about 30,000 miles since the oil was done and I'm doing the oil service this week, yes I know I "could" have ruined my car and should have done this a lot sooner. Are there any other areas you think I should be looking at? Belts, chains etc?
Please don't abuse me, I know I've abused my car.
 
Crankcase filter will need changing, along with the oil, oil filter and air filter. Use 5w40 fully synthetic, as it's most likely to survive, should the next change be in 30 K miles. ;)
 
Crankcase filter will need changing, along with the oil, oil filter and air filter. Use 5w40 fully synthetic, as it's most likely to survive, should the next change be in 30 K miles. ;)
How much of an arse is the case filter realistically? Is it doable with basic tools? It's at the back of the engine behind the inlet manifold isn't it?
 
How much of an arse is the case filter realistically?
It's an easy job.
Is it doable with basic tools?
You need a 5mm Allen key, that's it.
It's at the back of the engine behind the inlet manifold isn't it?
No. It's under the air filter cover, on top of the cam cover. The air filter top cover is harder to remove, than the crankcase filter. You will need to remove the injector harness to get to it, and maybe a couple of spill pipes, but it's definitely not a difficult job.
 
It's an easy job.

You need a 5mm Allen key, that's it.

No. It's under the air filter cover, on top of the cam cover. The air filter top cover is harder to remove, than the crankcase filter. You will need to remove the injector harness to get to it, and maybe a couple of spill pipes, but it's definitely not a difficult job.

Thanks , I'll get one ordered.
 
I agree, it's easier. I didn't even know they had one until Nodge68 mentioned it! Mine was a solid block of black gunge - might not have been done for a lot longer than 30,000 miles! You can also buy an "upgrade kit" (which, I understand was fitted to the original BMW version of that engine). It's a separator, so it separates out some of the crap that would otherwise clog up the crankcase breather system. I didn't fit one though, just a replacement filter.
 
I have a 53 plate td4 with 139,000 on the clock and have to admit she's been neglected over the last few years, 6 CD player broken, aircon failed and central locking aside it gets me where I need to be, however in the last 12 months she's had, all rear bushes and bearings, calipers, discs and rear shoes, brake lines, full silicone hose kit and drop links.
It was smokey under acceleration but now theres just a little on starting up, now the bad bit, it's about 30,000 miles since the oil was done and I'm doing the oil service this week, yes I know I "could" have ruined my car and should have done this a lot sooner. Are there any other areas you think I should be looking at? Belts, chains etc?
Please don't abuse me, I know I've abused my car.
If you had seen what I did when I replaced the head gasket on my old K series you'd know how much damage can be caused by not changing the oil regularly. Apart from the oil loosing it's viscosity and therefore not lubricating properly it can actually crystallise and block oil passageways. :eek:
I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes.
I'd be tempted to put in a cheap thin (ish) oil for a hundred miles or so then change it again.
 
Back
Top