pressure washing underside

Tim4x4 · Feb 8, 2014

I am about to start Waxoyling the underside of my Defender 110 2001.

Pryor to Waxoyling I will be pressure washing but there is plenty of crud inside the box sections.
I do not know how these box sections of the chasey are assembled.

If I purchase a drain cleaning attachment (8 meters of 15mm tube with a flexible jet on the end) should I be able to insert it into the jacking point and push it along the inside if the box section to flush out all the accumulated crud, or is it achieved in other ways?

MaxyMan · Feb 8, 2014

Yes you can do that but you would be pushing the crud to nowhere. It will just build up then at the rear crossmember and rot out.

Tim4x4 · Feb 8, 2014

MaxyMan said:
Yes you can do that but you would be pushing the crud to nowhere. It will just build up then at the rear crossmember and rot out.

Not much use then!!

I was hoping I would be able to flush out the crud, the water will exit somewhere will this not bring out the accumulated mud and I guess small stones with it?

I have tried inserting a bamboo stick about 10mm Dia into the front jacking aperture but this only went in a short distance and met with resistance because of the crud in there.

Anyone know what would be the largest diameter I am likely to be able to feed into the chasey? I could attach this to an industrial wet or dry vacuum cleaner and try sucking out the crud.

MaxyMan · Feb 8, 2014

Yeh if give it a good soaking hopefuly it would break it up enough to drain out but try not to push it all down the the back of the chassis. As for a size of rod, anything just smaller than the jacking hole and make sure it can bend well should run all the way to back and meet the rear crossmember.

Tim4x4 · Feb 8, 2014

MaxyMan said:
Yeh if give it a good soaking hopefuly it would break it up enough to drain out but try not to push it all down the the back of the chassis. As for a size of rod, anything just smaller than the jacking hole and make sure it can bend well should run all the way to back and meet the rear crossmember.

Thank you for the information,
I did not know if any obstructions along the way such as strengthening plates to stop a tube getting to the end of the chasey.

From what you are saying this is not the case and if I persevere I should get all the way to the rear of the vehicle, "flushing and sucking" my way to the end.

I know without something like a bore scope with a long probe I will never know how clean it is in the box section but having tried will be better than not doing anything.

I will give it a go next week.

Marmaduke · Feb 8, 2014

I think you might find the tubular cross member runs through the chassis and will might stop you running all the way to the back, I thought stuff like dinitrol was designed to soak through the crud and protect it anyway

MaxyMan · Feb 8, 2014

Marmaduke said:
I think you might find the tubular cross member runs through the chassis and will might stop you running all the way to the back, I thought stuff like dinitrol was designed to soak through the crud and protect it anyway

Do you mean the front crossmember? It's not part of the main chassis, it bolts in and out. The whole chassis rail is hollow as the wiring loom for the rear runs along the inside of the chaisis

flat · Feb 8, 2014

MaxyMan said:
Do you mean the front crossmember? It's not part of the main chassis, it bolts in and out. The whole chassis rail is hollow as the wiring loom for the rear runs along the inside of the chaisis

yeah but it has varioous bits that pass right through it, the tubular outrigger, the bolts for the rear shock mounts, the bolts for the gear box x-member etc so the loom can get through but a 15mm pipe might bot be that easy to manipulate through.

I think there was a guy on here or it might have been LRP that drilled 2 one inch wide holes in his rear x-member in line with the chassis rails then jacked the front up and shoved the pressure washer in the front of the chassis, then a hose and kept it running till the water came out clear. then he welded the holes back up and then did the cavity injection wax. I think he used a karcher drain cleaner attachment aswell

Marmaduke · Feb 8, 2014

flat said:
yeah but it has varioous bits that pass right through it, the tubular outrigger, the bolts for the rear shock mounts, l

That's the bottom hole for the rear shock absorber

flat · Feb 8, 2014

Marmaduke said:
That's the bottom hole for the rear shock absorber

I know where it is. The bolt passes through the chassis completely

tottot · Feb 8, 2014

The jack point holes do not lead into the chassis.

TheJoker · Feb 9, 2014

I cleaned mine by just flushing the frame rails with water. The small stones etc tend to block the exit of the water, so get a screwdriver or something to shift them around until the fall out of the frame rails. Just plenty of water and the crud should come out. Once the water's clear and there's no pebbles blocking the holes you should be done. Then let it dry properly and spray in Dinitrol until it flows out somewhere. Repeat if you want. Good luck!

Tim4x4 · Feb 9, 2014

OK so plenty of discussion on this subject of flushing out the chasey.
I will give it a go with a drain cleaning attachment but may not get very far if the apertures do not lead all the way along the box section of the chasey.
I did not want to cut any holes as suggested a method used. I just feel the crud gets in there I must be able to get it out but as always it probably takes years to accumulate and I want it out in minutes.

Tim4x4 · Feb 23, 2014

tottot said:
The jack point holes do not lead into the chassis.

You are absolutely correct (but you knew that anyway).
Looks like drilling some holes.
Should I be able to get along the cassis rails by drilling a hole in the end of each of the blanking plates just above the jacking points.
Using the trusted GOOGLE images it appears some have holes in the chassis rails above the front jacking points and some do not. Is it dictated by differing Defender models or aftermarket chassis?

pressure washing underside

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