Other pre drilled discs

Gazbo · Dec 16, 2016

brian47 said:
Nope, 1965 I was in Tech myself.
Thanks for the compliment/sarcastic comment* (delete as appropriate)

No, meant as compliment, information supplied complete and accurate, not always available in these pages.

gstuart · Dec 17, 2016

brian47 said:
One problem which might be encountered when trying to measure the remaining thickness of brake disks is the lip which can form on the edge of the disk. That can give rise to false readings.
An ordinary digital caliper, they used to be called a vernier gauge has the two parallel faces which come together fully along the length of the measuring jaws.

View attachment 113056

What is actually needed is a device such as a micrometer which is more suited to measuring between the two small faces with the raised "anvil" as it's known as the fixed face.

View attachment 113058

By using such a device, the problem of the edge lip can be overcome.

However there is a way that this problem can be overcome with two small metal blocks of indeterminate thickness. Since the digital devices can be "zeroed" at any point, the caliper can be zeroed with the two blocks in place between the jaws. The two blocks are then placed one each side of the disk and the thickness of the disk can then be measured accurately.
There are digital calipers designed specifically for brake disk measurement, but being "job specific", they tend to be a little more expensive, particularly if they aren't going to be used too often.

View attachment 113060

how right u are, before i replaced the discs on my hippo i soon found out i couldn't measure it correctly , due to the lip on the discs

got some old round fridge magnets, put them on the disc , took the measurement , then subtracted the thickness of the magnets

brian47 · Dec 17, 2016

gstuart said:
how right u are, before i replaced the discs on my hippo i soon found out i couldn't measure it correctly , due to the lip on the discs

got some old round fridge magnets, put them on the disc , took the measurement , then subtracted the thickness of the magnets

Getting a little more practical about the subject, the specs already given show an allowance for a 3 mm reduction in plate thickness due to wear in use, properly maintained brakes and in particular brake calipers would mean an allowance of 1.5 mm each side of the disk.
What I'm trying to say here is that if you have an appreciable lip on the edge of a disk which can be easily felt with the finger, then it's probably time to start thinking about replacement disks.

gstuart · Dec 17, 2016

brian47 said:
Getting a little more practical about the subject, the specs already given show an allowance for a 3 mm reduction in plate thickness due to wear in use, properly maintained brakes and in particular brake calipers would mean an allowance of 1.5 mm each side of the disk.
What I'm trying to say here is that if you have an appreciable lip on the edge of a disk which can be easily felt with the finger, then it's probably time to start thinking about replacement disks.

thks, on quick inspection i can see the lip on the discs already

but will be taking all the wheels off for a far better look , along with measuring the discs for actual wear

discs look original, 98,000 miles but can't be sure

will most likely replace all of them in the spring

inc the brake hoses as well, brake fluid change and calliper inspection

got to take the rear discs off anyway to inspect and clean the handbrake shoes

if i replace the lot i won't have to worry about them for a few years then

always prefer to replace brake items well in advance, so i know there working correctly and all done properly

will ensure they are all oem parts and replace like for like, being the ventilated discs

fingers crossed i won't have to replace the handbrake shoes, as they look pigs to do ,

freelance · Dec 17, 2016

Doubt anyone has got 90,000 miles out of d3 discs

brian47 · Dec 17, 2016

gstuart said:
fingers crossed i won't have to replace the handbrake shoes, as they look pigs to do ,

Thinking about the way that the handbrake works on most Land Rovers, the brake drum and shoes on the rear prop shaft rather than on the wheels would tend to suggest that wear isn't going to be the greater problem, which in most cases can be adjusted out. The greater problem is more likely to be a seized system, either in the drum or the external operating mechanism, or in the case of the D3, I believe, a failure in the electrical system operating the brake.

biggeeeee · Dec 17, 2016

brian47 said:
Thinking about the way that the handbrake works on most Land Rovers, the brake drum and shoes on the rear prop shaft rather than on the wheels would tend to suggest that wear isn't going to be the greater problem, which in most cases can be adjusted out. The greater problem is more likely to be a seized system, either in the drum or the external operating mechanism, or in the case of the D3, I believe, a failure in the electrical system operating the brake.

Wish it was still the same set up but on the Disco 3 the Electronic Handbrake has shoes inside the rear discs and works on that via an actuator that seems to go wrong at the drop of a hat

freelance · Dec 17, 2016

At least on d 3 you have an option to use handrake( auto), on d 4 and others it's automatically applied when selecting park, even more electrickery to raise one's stress levels!

biggeeeee · Dec 17, 2016

freelance said:
At least on d 3 you have an option to use handrake( auto), on d 4 and others it's automatically applied when selecting park, even more electrickery to raise one's stress levels!

Mine isnt working, just the red warning flashing away.
Will sort it after the winter, I'm not lying under the bloody motor in this weather

freelance · Dec 17, 2016

We tend not to use handbrake , just cross our fingers at mot time!!

brian47 · Dec 17, 2016

freelance said:
We tend not to use handbrake , just cross our fingers at mot time!!

That was the "unofficial" advice from Lotus about the crap handbrake on the 60s Elan. It was so ridiculously bad that the advice was "Adjust it to work for the MoT and use the gears for the rest of the year".

listerdiesel · Dec 17, 2016

Had drilled stainless discs on my BMW R1000's, it was there to help shed water off the disc surface. Problem then was that the discs wore in a ridged pattern, which is why later drill patterns had the holes in a spiral pattern.

As far as our D2's go, we buy standard OEM discs and Mintex pads, never had any issues and never really needed anything extra. I can lock the wheels and bring the ABS into play on a dry road, that's about as good as it gets.

Peter

gstuart · Dec 18, 2016

listerdiesel said:
Had drilled stainless discs on my BMW R1000's, it was there to help shed water off the disc surface. Problem then was that the discs wore in a ridged pattern, which is why later drill patterns had the holes in a spiral pattern.

As far as our D2's go, we buy standard OEM discs and Mintex pads, never had any issues and never really needed anything extra. I can lock the wheels and bring the ABS into play on a dry road, that's about as good as it gets.

Peter

cheers ref the info, also been reading where drilled discs can get a hairline crack between the drilled holes

will stick to the ventilated ones and replace as per oem

wondering though how good some of the so called improved brake pads are better than oem pads

gstuart · Dec 18, 2016

brian47 said:
Thinking about the way that the handbrake works on most Land Rovers, the brake drum and shoes on the rear prop shaft rather than on the wheels would tend to suggest that wear isn't going to be the greater problem, which in most cases can be adjusted out. The greater problem is more likely to be a seized system, either in the drum or the external operating mechanism, or in the case of the D3, I believe, a failure in the electrical system operating the brake.

being an auto i just don't bother using the handbrake if i'm honest

does seem on reading how they are adjusted and removed that a lot of dust builds up on the shoes and causing the brakes to bind

also they are supposed to be the brake shoes from hell to remove and replace,

something with being an octopus in trying to get the springs and shoes all back in one go, lol

gstuart · Dec 18, 2016

freelance said:
We tend not to use handbrake , just cross our fingers at mot time!!

don't use mine either , mot is due in july so gives me some time to strip everything down, replace as required

gstuart · Dec 18, 2016

biggeeeee said:
Mine isnt working, just the red warning flashing away.
Will sort it after the winter, I'm not lying under the bloody motor in this weather

tried mine when i was buying the landy to ensure it worked ok, not used it since, lol

Gazbo · Dec 18, 2016

gstuart said:
tried mine when i was buying the landy to ensure it worked ok, not used it since, lol

That's where the anchor comes in!!

Other pre drilled discs

Gazbo

Well-Known Member

gstuart

D3 Grandad

brian47

Well-Known Member

gstuart

D3 Grandad

freelance

Well-Known Member

brian47

Well-Known Member

biggeeeee

Retired - Living the dream

freelance

Well-Known Member

biggeeeee

Retired - Living the dream

freelance

Well-Known Member

brian47

Well-Known Member

listerdiesel

Well-Known Member

gstuart

D3 Grandad

gstuart

D3 Grandad

gstuart

D3 Grandad

gstuart

D3 Grandad

Gazbo

Well-Known Member

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