Powering relays

The Mad Hat Man said:

sometimes, if it makes it easier, you can get relay sockets that incorporate fuses as well.

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Where did you find them?

Got a mammoth rewire coming up in the spring so I can see these joining my list of "things to buy" along with a massive fuse board.

Glad this thread came around as it has made me think about some of the things that I will be tackling and planning in a few months time.

Google is your friend....
“Fused relay socket”

I use duckduckgo as my search engine of choice and I couldn't find em, will open a goggle page if I must, then spend next 6 months being bombarded by adds for the pesky things

dieseldog69 said:

I use duckduckgo as my search engine of choice and I couldn't find em, will open a goggle page if I must, then spend next 6 months being bombarded by adds for the pesky things

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https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/701/category/37

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=fused+relay+holder&t=h_&ia=web

dieseldog69 said:

I use duckduckgo as my search engine of choice and I couldn't find em, will open a goggle page if I must, then spend next 6 months being bombarded by adds for the pesky things

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In that case, Google is your casual acquaintance!





I'll get m'coat .....

brian47 said:

In that case, Google is your casual acquaintance!





I'll get m'coat .....

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Ta for the links, can see me doing a bit of artistry tonight and might even compile the list of I wants ready for warmer weather.

If you draw any diagrams please list them here - I want to see if anybody can do worse than mine

dieseldog69 said:

Ta for the links, can see me doing a bit of artistry tonight and might even compile the list of I wants ready for warmer weather.

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I wish you luck with your list of wants.
I've got just little jobs on my Disco at the moment:-

• Install the switchery for cruise control
  
• Change the digital voltmeter which I installed a couple of years back for a combined digital volt/ammeter with a 100Amp shunt.

My plan is to basically relocate the batteries from the from to the rear passenger foot wells, fit a second alternator, move all fuse boards and create a new relay board with complete new harness so that all existing wiring can either be junked or connected to.

I am blessed with a very basic and easy to tinker with non electronic D1, I have added quite a few extras that the standard alternator and circuits are not enough and as this is going to become an off road camper/expedition vehicle I want to future proof a few additional extras like an eberspacher diesel night heater, interior lighting & external aux sockets and a 3000W inverter.

Can't afford it all now but I know what I want and want to get it built right the first time.

dieseldog69 said:

My plan is to basically relocate the batteries from the from to the rear passenger foot wells, fit a second alternator, move all fuse boards and create a new relay board with complete new harness so that all existing wiring can either be junked or connected to.

I am blessed with a very basic and easy to tinker with non electronic D1, I have added quite a few extras that the standard alternator and circuits are not enough and as this is going to become an off road camper/expedition vehicle I want to future proof a few additional extras like an eberspacher diesel night heater, interior lighting & external aux sockets and a 3000W inverter.

Can't afford it all now but I know what I want and want to get it built right the first time.

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Yep, no point doing things twice. A lot of mine is over-cabled, 2mm where 1 would be fine or 1mm where .5 would do. For the pence cost difference though it just seemed to make sense.

Discokids said:

Yep, no point doing things twice. A lot of mine is over-cabled, 2mm where 1 would be fine or 1mm where .5 would do. For the pence cost difference though it just seemed to make sense.

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I like clean and tidy too, I've tried my hardest to keep additional wiring as tidy as possible bit I'm running out of room in the original cable ducts and feel the additions are going to make it messy.

I also think it a good idea to move 50 kilos of batteries off the nose and into the center of the wheelbase as close to the center of gravity as I can too.

It's a long term project, with multiple drawings and collecting of parts before I dismantle the existing electrics.

dieseldog69 said:

I like clean and tidy too, I've tried my hardest to keep additional wiring as tidy as possible bit I'm running out of room in the original cable ducts and feel the additions are going to make it messy.

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This stuff is great for keeping the various bits of wire under control:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1311.R4.TR12.TRC2.A0.H1.Xflexible+.TRS0&_nkw=flexible+conduit&_sacat=0

Use the split stuff, it's easier to add and modify the circuits contained and is similar to that fitted by LR originally. Once you have all the wires you need in it just use a short length of tape to finish the ends. If you find that a piece of conduit is getting too full, you can easily remove it and fit the next larger size.

Batteries two of these bad boys !!

https://www.tayna.co.uk/324-Numax-Commercial-Battery-P3282.html

Alternator

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALTERNATOR...685923?hash=item416b37b023:g:AEgAAOSwQM9UZGu-

So often when you're planning or undertaking a project, it's the little things which might get overlooked such as rubber boots to cover terminals, adequate lengths of cable*, suitable terminals and other bits and pieces like enough cable ties etc.
* Remember the Murphy's law concerning cables:-
"A wire cut to length is always too short"

try to use std colour codes wherever possible..... a car full of red n black wires is no good to anyone .

The Mad Hat Man said:

try to use std colour codes wherever possible..... a car full of red n black wires is no good to anyone .

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And wherever possible, make some decent drawings, and circuit diagrams of your additions and modifications, not just your working sketches to be kept with the documentation for the vehicle.
Not only will you find them useful when the inevitable fault develops a few years down the line, but a prospective new owner will also find them useful.
I hate getting a "new" car when somebody with more wire than experience has been adding his own undocumented modifications.

brian47 said:

So often when you're planning or undertaking a project, it's the little things which might get overlooked such as rubber boots to cover terminals, adequate lengths of cable*, suitable terminals and other bits and pieces like enough cable ties etc.
* Remember the Murphy's law concerning cables:-
"A wire cut to length is always too short"

Click to expand...

When making up looms and stuff I tend to over order and run lengths 300mm over length so I have tails to cut off and I'm never short.

The Mad Hat Man said:

try to use std colour codes wherever possible..... a car full of red n black wires is no good to anyone .

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Plan is to order up original colour coded cable to keep it original from that POV.

brian47 said:

And wherever possible, make some decent drawings, and circuit diagrams of your additions and modifications, not just your working sketches to be kept with the documentation for the vehicle.
Not only will you find them useful when the inevitable fault develops a few years down the line, but a prospective new owner will also find them useful.
I hate getting a "new" car when somebody with more wire than experience has been adding his own undocumented modifications.

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I have a notebook with the things I have changed and a list of part numbers that supersede the original as I have mostly been replacing the older 200Tdi parts with 300Tdi parts so need to use those instead, like last year I needed new UJs in the front prop, easy enough but I used the wide angle solid prop of a V8 D1, look in the book and order up the right part, had it been someone else without the book they would have been scratching their heads over the parts mismatch.

The drawings are essential as cable routing will alter a bit and with keeping the colours co-ordinated it should keep life simple, switching will be trunked up to the dash and a whole new aux switching panel. There will also be switching in the rear for lights and the heater.