Power windows & doors

Here's what I done did this weekend. I don't expect to take this bad boy under water, just overseas. Trying to give her some updates. More to come.

Land Rover Defender Power Door Locks: https://youtu.be/_YkL7GEc6LI
Land Rover Defender Power windows: https://youtu.be/-18R0j7JkVU

Not the best videos just trying it out.

Links to the products used are in the description.

Those are two of the things on my to do list for my Landys.

My plan was to install a Viper alarm which has a built in door lock triggering out put and a power window module which I still intend to do.

I have three questions, what year is your Landy? There are two types of power window regulators for Landys before 99 and another for late 99 and newer, which do you have?

Secondly, looking at the link to the power windows I cannot see a module. Do the windows stop automatically, did you have to install limit switches or is there an electronic module?

Lastly, how does the hardware look, is the window scissors mechanism good quality and thickness.

Thanks for sharing, good job on the set up.

Fitted a set of leccy windows myself a couple of years ago, similar kit, easy to fit and so far no problems.
About 30quid of eBay.
No limit switches or modules, just reverse pole Carling switches in place of the ones supplied.

I fitted remote central locking to mine a few weeks ago. A cheapie £20 kit off Ebay. Best mod I've made so far!

I have the door locks to fit on a sunny day, and when I have gathered enough willpower to make the next batch of fixes. Already have a Hawk alarm fitted, so just need to wire it all in.

How and where did you run the wires from the doors to the central locking controller?

Like you guys, I bought the universal kit from amazon for about $50 which is roughly 30 quid. Great little kit that bolted right in. The system just controls the roll up part by using a set of gears. I will have to fix the door cards in order to fit it correctly and with enough space. That will prove to be the tough part. Nothing a little fiberglass can't take care of.

The power locks just needed a bit of adjustment on the lever part that connects to the locking mechanism. I had to bend it bypass the lift handle mechanics but still fit just right.

Both took less modifications than any britpart I've purchased

I did the same a year or so ago and included the safari rear door too. I removed the key hole in the rear door too. Combined with a remote alarm with total closure it now unlocks and locks on the touch of the button and closes the windows when I lock it.

I have yet to do the official wiring because I'm going to have to remove the dashboard as it is kinda crappy. I have to make some small repairs on it with some epoxy. I want to wire it in like if it was factory. I'm also putting the switch in the center cubby box. It will just make it look better.

I also have plans on a dual battery system because of all the Aux stuff I'm putting in. Car alarm, radio, windows, locks, LED rear lighting, LED bar, HIDs.... I just think it would be a better idea to put a second battery to take care of all that. I also changed the glass fuses to blade fuses as they are much easier to find once I take this bad boy to the states.

cowasaki said:

I did the same a year or so ago and included the safari rear door too. I removed the key hole in the rear door too. Combined with a remote alarm with total closure it now unlocks and locks on the touch of the button and closes the windows when I lock it.

Click to expand...

Nice work! Any wiring diagrams?..... Am I the only nerd that makes these? Bad habit from being an electrician.

YankeeLandee said:

I have yet to do the official wiring because I'm going to have to remove the dashboard as it is kinda crappy. I have to make some small repairs on it with some epoxy. I want to wire it in like if it was factory. I'm also putting the switch in the center cubby box. It will just make it look better.

I also have plans on a dual battery system because of all the Aux stuff I'm putting in. Car alarm, radio, windows, locks, LED rear lighting, LED bar, HIDs.... I just think it would be a better idea to put a second battery to take care of all that. I also changed the glass fuses to blade fuses as they are much easier to find once I take this bad boy to the states.

Click to expand...

You'll end up with it looking like mine

I used two disco window switches fitted in a raptor dash.

Dual batteries are very simple to wire up and the easiest way is to use a 100/200amp relay, 2x 60amp fuses and a switch (see my tutorial) the total cost is under £20 plus the battery.

YankeeLandee said:

Nice work! Any wiring diagrams?..... Am I the only nerd that makes these? Bad habit from being an electrician.

Click to expand...

Yes, they are in my electrical tutorial (see my sig)

YankeeLandee said:

I have yet to do the official wiring because I'm going to have to remove the dashboard as it is kinda crappy. I have to make some small repairs on it with some epoxy. I want to wire it in like if it was factory. I'm also putting the switch in the center cubby box. It will just make it look better.

I also have plans on a dual battery system because of all the Aux stuff I'm putting in. Car alarm, radio, windows, locks, LED rear lighting, LED bar, HIDs.... I just think it would be a better idea to put a second battery to take care of all that. I also changed the glass fuses to blade fuses as they are much easier to find once I take this bad boy to the states.

Click to expand...

I did the split charge thing a few weeks ago, works nicely and the leisure battery stayed at 12v even after running a fridge over night at the weekend, though it was bloody cold

I have fitted my alarm and stuff underneath the cubby, which is now virtually impossible to get at without removing both seats, so kind of wish I had fitted the locking first!

I saw the proper trunking to carry the wires between the bulkhead and doors, but can't seem to find it now.