Stolen Recovered Land Rover 90 immobilizer system

RustyDefender said:

The truth is with this thread, a few of us know what you need to do.. However none of us are going to tell you. Not to be rude.

With the high amount of thefts of defenders, this topic isn't something that people will want public or to help random new members. I hope you can understand the context of it; New member joins; Asks about stolen immobilizer questions.

The advice I would give is to take it to a land rover specialist.

But hope you're genuine and welcome to the community.

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I have now found out and been able to fix it, it appears all that is needed is a Nanocom

While I do understand you not helping a new member it was to be honest rude and asking for a vin number is that a joke?


It looks like the land rover security system was put in to basic or base mode so that it was just working with the key or be it the screwdriver so when the power from the battery was removed by me it reset the system.
Now having used the Nanocom I was able to change it back to normal but it does show how weak the security is unfortunately so I am going to look in to adding some extra security to the vehicle.

Adding extra security is the first thing any new Defender owner needs to do.

But it goes both ways

You've still not given any information at all about your vehicle, such as where you got it from in the stolen recovered condition and why the seller didn't repair it before they sold it.

The standard alarm can be improved massively with around £80 of aftermarket parts and a couple hours work.

Put a disc lock on it and fit a tracking device of some sort.

lightning said:

Adding extra security is the first thing any new Defender owner needs to do.

But it goes both ways

You've still not given any information at all about your vehicle, such as where you got it from in the stolen recovered condition and why the seller didn't repair it before they sold it.

The standard alarm can be improved massively with around £80 of aftermarket parts and a couple hours work.

Put a disc lock on it and fit a tracking device of some sort.

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It came from a well know car auction site for scrap and recovered vehicles but thanks for the other advice.

Are the pedal locks any good?

Do you add any extra imobeliser or trackers? Some Chinese options are around I know

Fit anything you can.

There's loads of security products.

Disc lock is a good start. Any tracking device.
Pedal locks, yes anything is better than nothing if the thieves see a disc lock and a pedal lock it means they've got to take time removing them so may well move on.

You can tap 5mm ball bearings into the door bolt heads and that's a cheap way to reduce the chances of getting your doors stolen.

Get the registration number etched into all the windows, you can buy a DIY kit on ebay for around £25.
lt's a small thing but makes the vehicle difficult to sell on with cloned plates etc

Peak.Land said:

I have now found out and been able to fix it, it appears all that is needed is a Nanocom

While I do understand you not helping a new member it was to be honest rude and asking for a vin number is that a joke?


It looks like the land rover security system was put in to basic or base mode so that it was just working with the key or be it the screwdriver so when the power from the battery was removed by me it reset the system.
Now having used the Nanocom I was able to change it back to normal but it does show how weak the security is unfortunately so I am going to look in to adding some extra security to the vehicle.

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Wasn't rude to be fair, it was sensible.
Anyway now you know how easy it is to steal your Land Rover then get some more security on it.
Stick around for your next problem or help someone else out.

Peak.Land said:

Are the pedal locks any good?

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Yes, but make sure you get one which completely covers the pedals. The claw type which leave the pedal foot pads exposed are next best thing to useless and easily removed by scrotes. I can recommend the Adrenalin pedal lock for about £100. As the vehicle was stolen previously, check your horns still work (one behind each headlamp) and that the Battery Back Up Sounder (BBUS) behind the nearside headlamp is there. You might also need to replace the fuse for the indicators. These are common issues with a stolen defender.

Wimblowdriver said:

Yes, but make sure you get one which completely covers the pedals. The claw type which leave the pedal foot pads exposed are next best thing to useless and easily removed by scrotes. I can recommend the Adrenalin pedal lock for about £100. As the vehicle was stolen previously, check your horns still work (one behind each headlamp) and that the Battery Back Up Sounder (BBUS) behind the nearside headlamp is there. You might also need to replace the fuse for the indicators. These are common issues with a stolen defender.

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Thank you I will look in to the pedal lock you mentioned, they disabled the indicators in a interesting way just ripping them out and re fitting them so I have been soldering all the wires back together all day.
Interesting the headlights dont work at all but do on full beam so they may have messed with something.
Will the back up sounder need replacing now its going to be over 10 years old, I have not done the nearside indicators yet when I do I will see if it was fitted to my car and reconnect it

Back up sounder is behind the nsf headlight near the horn, don't think you can buy them anymore, besides I doubt the internal battery works anymore. Regardless of that it's a sensible idea to relocate it as it would still work as an alarm sounder when it has a 12v supply.
Indicators would have been shorted out to blow the alarm fuse, headlights may well be just a fuse or the actual switch as they are known to fail.

You can buy a wiring harness to move the back up sounder, if fitted. As standard it can be accessed and disconnected by removing the headlamp which takes about five minutes.



Better still, fit an aftermarket alarm system.

Peak.Land said:

they disabled the indicators in a interesting way just ripping them out and re fitting them so I have been soldering all the wires back together all day.

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The offside indicator will have been taken out to access the wires to the horn - which will have been disconnected. The nearside horn will have had the wires removed after the headlamp was removed. Earth wires will have been disturbed, probably the reason the headlamps are not working properly.

Wimblowdriver said:

The offside indicator will have been taken out to access the wires to the horn - which will have been disconnected. The nearside horn will have had the wires removed after the headlamp was removed. Earth wires will have been disturbed, probably the reason the headlamps are not working properly.

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Only if it has two horns, optional extra having two. I only have one horn, worse than useless.
Regardless thief didn't know that, info for the OP incase he goes looking for a horn he might never have had.

Many thanks both horns are now working again, I found the wire for the Battery backup alarm but it does not look like it ever had it as they are not made anymore does anyone know if any other cars had the same unit? I do electronics so should be able to change out the old battery in it but its hard to find one at a reasonable price

Peak.Land said:

Many thanks both horns are now working again, I found the wire for the Battery backup alarm but it does not look like it ever had it as they are not made anymore does anyone know if any other cars had the same unit? I do electronics so should be able to change out the old battery in it but its hard to find one at a reasonable price

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I'm pretty sure you can't change the battery, I do believe it's encapsulated in some sort of resin stuff.
I have never heard of a suitable alternative, doesn't mean there isn't one.
If you find something let us all know as I imagine just about everyone else's is also flat.
The normal horns also go off with the BBUS so you would still have an audible warning.

The X-Eng pedal locks are pretty good, had one in my 110 it was easy to use. You need to drill a couple of holes mind

Anaconda said:

I'm pretty sure you can't change the battery, I do believe it's encapsulated in some sort of resin stuff.
I have never heard of a suitable alternative, doesn't mean there isn't one.
If you find something let us all know as I imagine just about everyone else's is also flat.
The normal horns also go off with the BBUS so you would still have an audible warning.

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Thanks I did try to find a picture of the inside of one but not been able to yet. It would make sense that is been filled in with a resin to protect the battery from environmental it is in.

I will keep my eye out

I got all the headlights back up and running a fuse had gone. But the day time running lights will not work at all they look to be factory wiring or very good aftermarket

Has anyone worked on the day time running lights before where does it get fed from guessing it's just a signal to turn on and off?

Peak.Land said:

Many thanks both horns are now working again, I found the wire for the Battery backup alarm but it does not look like it ever had it as they are not made anymore does anyone know if any other cars had the same unit? I do electronics so should be able to change out the old battery in it but its hard to find one at a reasonable price

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It will have had one fitted originally. They go missing as part of the thieving process. They are a sealed unit, battery cannot be replaced.

Peak.Land said:

I got all the headlights back up and running a fuse had gone. But the day time running lights will not work at all they look to be factory wiring or very good aftermarket

Has anyone worked on the day time running lights before where does it get fed from guessing it's just a signal to turn on and off?

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Day time running lights must be an aftermarket item. They weren't factory fitment - just headlights and side lights.