Power loss/Juddering

I need advice please.
Upon reaching 2600rpm the engine on my Freelander 2 litre diesel engine (V reg) stutters and the car jurks about. It's like it's not getting sufficient fuel.
Around town it's no big problem, as I just change up a gear before reaching 2600 rpm.

I've just done a 400 mile round trip motorway driving...and here's what I encountered.
The car will cruise fine at 60mph (2500rpm)
As soon as I reach 62mph (2600rpm) the car judders as though not getting enough fuel.
Now....if I put mi foot down I can drive through it (still juddering). Once I reach 70mph (2900rpm) the car drives smoothly again.

I can't see how it can be fuel starvation if it's ok at 70mph.

Any ideas?

Hi mate, the EGR valve sticking sounds like a likely culprit to me, try unplugging the MAF or EGR servo pipe then going for a drive.

Is it down on power across the rev range? Also check wiring to the No1 injector, priming bulb condition and have you changed your fuel filter recentley?

Let us know how you go on.

Thanks bigdenbailey.
I'm a bit lost where to start......
I've had a good read of the Rave CD, and haynes manual (useless).

When you say the EGR valve, do you mean the EGR valve or the EGR Solenoid valve bolted to the bulkhead?

Other reading of the forum suggests it may be the MAF sensor?

An old thread from 2006/7 suggests that fitting a MAFAM sold by "RoverRon" on ebay will solve the problem of a duff MAF sensor without the need to replace the sensor....this being the cheaper option.

I've already spent a fortune on the heap, but if I can sort this one last problem she should be ok for a while.

Can anyone tell me how to diagnose the problem.
EGR valve, EGR solenoid valve, or MAF sensor?

Hi mate,
first of all dont worry too much about the MAF on your vehicle.

On them foreign TD4 thingys, the MAF controls fueling side.

On the L-Series it purely controls opening and closing of the EGR valve. It sends a signal to the 'EGR valve control solenoid' mounted on the bulkhead. Our MAP sensors in the inlet manifold take care of the fuelling.

There are lots of the rover cars with the same engine running about with the MAF unplugged!

You can disconnect the MAF on your L series and it will inhibit your egr- providing it isnt stuck open.

The other way of doing it is to find the little black servo pipe connecting your EGR valve (on the manifold) and 'EGR valve control solenoid', simply unplug the bugger and bung the pipe up. (some people just use a self tapping screw and bit of silicone).

Disconnect this pipe and go for a good 20 min drive and see what happens. If its any better you know is the EGR.

I have had good results disconnecting pipework and cleaning my stuck open valve in situ, it cured my lumpy idle fault and made my engine more responsive. Lots of carb cleaner did the trick. I applied suction to the servo pipe on valve to open it as I sprayed into the valve, then releasing the suction and dousing it in carb cleaner. It seated properly afterwards and I havent had a problem since.

Cleaning your MAF is worth a pop too.
Disconnect the MAF, then there are two tamper proof torx bits to undo. I had lent my tools to my mate at the time so simply used a pair of pliers too undo them no problems. Withdraw the element and gently clean with the carb cleaner.