Power issues

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Paul Coddington

Active Member
Posts
131
Location
Derbyshire
Hello All.
Once again a pointer in the right direction is needed. So this 2.5 DT manual gearbox pain in the backside is giving me grief. It s current problem is that it's being completely gutless on hills apart from the odd occasion when it suddenly remembers how it used to perform.
I've checked and replaced the tubing for the MAP sensor, the fuel filter and tried another MAF sensor all to no avail.
A visual inspection shows that there's intermittent air bubbles in the clear pipe from the filter, so I'm going to remove and it just to check the seals. My other thought is that it's dragging air in on the fuel pump.
The lack of power on hills and the fact that it's pretty much ok on the level roads makes me think that the pump is on the way out, (I've found the post from wammers in the tech archive and will go through the tests).
My immediate question is if I unplug the MAF and drive it round the same hills it's way better, wouldn't a dodgy fuel pump give the same symptoms, wether or not the MAF was connected.
Ta muchly
 
Hello All.
Once again a pointer in the right direction is needed. So this 2.5 DT manual gearbox pain in the backside is giving me grief. It s current problem is that it's being completely gutless on hills apart from the odd occasion when it suddenly remembers how it used to perform.
I've checked and replaced the tubing for the MAP sensor, the fuel filter and tried another MAF sensor all to no avail.
A visual inspection shows that there's intermittent air bubbles in the clear pipe from the filter, so I'm going to remove and it just to check the seals. My other thought is that it's dragging air in on the fuel pump.
The lack of power on hills and the fact that it's pretty much ok on the level roads makes me think that the pump is on the way out, (I've found the post from wammers in the tech archive and will go through the tests).
My immediate question is if I unplug the MAF and drive it round the same hills it's way better, wouldn't a dodgy fuel pump give the same symptoms, wether or not the MAF was connected.
Ta muchly
I would expect a dodgy in tank pump to give the same symptoms with or without the MAF but you never know. How full is the tank? Filling it up would help to eliminate the in tank pump. I have had the same symptoms with a duff pump and half a tank of fuel.
Really needs diagnostics with which you could check the MAP sensor and possibly the MAF.
 
Update. So eventually got round to checking the turbo, and the actuator is seized, I can't get it to move inwards at all. So having decided that this is probably the issue I would ask, is it best to just change the entire turbo or would it be worth try a replacement actuator first.
Thanks
 
Update. So eventually got round to checking the turbo, and the actuator is seized, I can't get it to move inwards at all. So having decided that this is probably the issue I would ask, is it best to just change the entire turbo or would it be worth try a replacement actuator first.
Thanks
If it's the actual mechanism that has seized, it can be freed off.
 
I have had a bar on it, to no avail. I can get it to move slightly away from the unit but it springs back. I've had no success moving it towards the actuator body. Any handy methods of freeing it off. Or is it a case of removing it and trying that way.
 
I have had a bar on it, to no avail. I can get it to move slightly away from the unit but it springs back. I've had no success moving it towards the actuator body. Any handy methods of freeing it off. Or is it a case of removing it and trying that way.
I did it on what turned out to be a scrap turbo on the bench, brake cleaner or Acetone. I still have the turbo I can do photo's if it would help.
 
I did it on what turned out to be a scrap turbo on the bench, brake cleaner or Acetone. I still have the turbo I can do photo's if it would help.
Yes definitely interested in photos and a DIY guide. it's got to come off anyway, new turbo's are a ridiculous price, Currently trying to source a recon which is proving difficult. So any chance of resurrecting this one is definitely the way forward.
Thanks
 
Yes definitely interested in photos and a DIY guide. it's got to come off anyway, new turbo's are a ridiculous price, Currently trying to source a recon which is proving difficult. So any chance of resurrecting this one is definitely the way forward.
Thanks
Very sorry, it seems that the exhaust side of the turbo with the waste gate has gone missing so no photo's, probably went in the scrap iron bag. The actual waste gate is quite simple when disconnected from the actuator.
 
Very sorry, it seems that the exhaust side of the turbo with the waste gate has gone missing so no photo's, probably went in the scrap iron bag. The actual waste gate is quite simple when disconnected from the actuator.
Very sorry, it seems that the exhaust side of the turbo with the waste gate has gone missing so no photo's, probably went in the scrap iron bag. The actual waste gate is quite simple when disconnected from the actuator.
No problems, thanks for the pointers. The existing one has got to be taken off so I'll give it a look over and see what I can do.
Assistance very much appreciated.
Best Regards
Paul
 
So everyday is a school day, I've removed the turbo and exhaust manifold today, and having looked at it and the actuator I realised that I've got this issue wrong.
I was given to understand that the actuator is operated by a vacuum and pulls the rod to open the waste gate. But that's not the case.
Can any of you clever people tell me when would the actuator begin to work. I was told that movement should be seen as soon as the engine is revved, mine didn't move despite the revs.
I would assume that the turbo generated the pressure from the get go.
I'm trying to get an idea of I should replace this turbo or not.
As a further bit of info the actuator does push but it requires a deal of force, I used of a small pry bar.
 
So everyday is a school day, I've removed the turbo and exhaust manifold today, and having looked at it and the actuator I realised that I've got this issue wrong.
I was given to understand that the actuator is operated by a vacuum and pulls the rod to open the waste gate. But that's not the case.
Can any of you clever people tell me when would the actuator begin to work. I was told that movement should be seen as soon as the engine is revved, mine didn't move despite the revs.
I would assume that the turbo generated the pressure from the get go.
I'm trying to get an idea of I should replace this turbo or not.
As a further bit of info the actuator does push but it requires a deal of force, I used of a small pry bar.
The waste gate or "bypass" as it's called in RAVE is pneumatically operated by turbo output pressure, in one place RAVE states it's vacuum operated, in another it implies pressure operated. Ether way, the vacuum unit is bolted to the turbo with a rubber pipe from the turbo outlet.
 
Back
Top