Potential 110 project

thanks mate

So bits arrived today, got the radiator fitted and started her up after the timing belt change.. all good
Fix no plate light on Missus Skoda.. MOT for that wed.

put the 110 back on ramp and set for the wiper wheel box mission.

Angle grinder the spigots off as they were rusted solid.

Fitted the wheelboxes loosely in place then unpackaged the wiper cable

So problem, the new one is longer than the original

What to do... should i cut it to match the old one or try and make the new fit..

fitted new LED no plate light, and two reflectors while i pondered what to do

Have come home to clean wiper tubes

So do i cut the new one, send it back and order new one or fit it as is..?
Just to add to the pressure the farm straw bailer's are being serviced next week, so need to have my landys out or on the ramp which they will be stuck on for a fortnight

No pressure...lol

Got swivels housings and brakes to do both sides at front and a steering drag link.

Add a few extra inches & chop it. You can always shorten once finished with the grinder

Hicap phill said:

Add a few extra inches & chop it. You can always shorten once finished with the grinder

Click to expand...

cheers bud

will be at the tomorrow.

want to drive it up and down the farm road a bit tomorrow pre ripping suspension apart and check it runs and drives etc.

cut the cable as suggested.
got it all together finger tight but keeps blowing fuses,had cleaned all tubes but believe the tube nearest to wiper motor is bent or pinched,

motor works fine with no cable but cable feels stiff to pull through and think it must be tube

tested fog light and reversing light they have power just need to clean bulb connections and fit bulbs
bolted radiator in.
Emptied all the back of rubbish left in it when i bought it, found a few spare bits and an old style cone shaped oil can.

Must be a bloody antique..will pop a picture up tomorrow

Refitted viscous fan and the cowl to rad
Got rear fog light worked

drove it about 500m to check it ran ok

back on ramp

started on swivel strip

but was also working on my 90
see my other thread

More tomorrow

However just got a text from DHL had ordered some bits from somewhere different to my ususal supplier on Wed morning promised i would have it before weekend...

DHL text delivery Monday...FFS

DHL delivered today as promised by supplier,, hurrah

have got the bits on the ramp next to the 110

today i have
ripped N/S front hub apart.
bloody 7 bolts to axle tube were tight as F### had loctite on them
removed bent drag link
removed track rod end from Drop arm
Removed track rod end.

Fitted new swivel seal
reassembled hub
with New brake disc
New brake caliper
new brake pads

Attempted to fit the self assemble track rod end into drop arm
Gave up with that will use the air jack when i have got the swivels done

Think going to have to have drive flange off again, hub seems to have tightened up after i fitted it. but that maybe due to turning the diff that is giving me the drag









Don't even ask re the 90....

re the 110 swivel the other side and the wiper tube tomorrow hopefully//

Tried a 90 winter wheel on the 110 as the 90 ain't gonna need them.

also stripped out Off side hub ready to refit with new swivel seal..

fitted new wiper tube and discovered it still blows fuses, so think wiper motor is suspect, works ok with no cable.

Wired up no plate light.

Discovered circlip for drive shaft is buggered.

Fitted new track rod end to drag link ready to fit when hub is back together

Refitted wiper motor, a mate had it overnight stripped cleaned it tweaked the brushes, works a treat

put on spindles and blades, fitted LED bulbs to reversing & fog light

refiited the front grill

Removed bolts holding brake disc to hub. had left them soaking overnight with WD40

Think the list is getting shorter and the MOT nearer..

Tomorrow hope to
refit O/S swivel & reassemble hub, fit new brake disc, Calliper and Pads

Fit track rod end,
assemble drop arm ball joint and fir drag link

so have finished the front seals when a new stake flat washer arrived as mine was oval and wouldn't go again and the other side driveshaft circlip was stretched

fitted freshly aquired wheels and tyres from ebay,

Stripped rear hubs and fitted new discs & callipers, went to fit pads but have been supplied the ones for 2001 onwards in error, about 5mm to thick , correct ones on the way.

Have also ordered a new A frame bush as mine looks past its best.
Managed to get the last bit of old ball joint out of drop arm, required heat and a jury rigged puller

left to do is
bleed brakes
A frame bush
fit new track rod end into drop arm
fit drag link
bulbs in the dash
tighten all wiper components
put electric wires in for stereo fitment at a later date
refit dash

fitted my correct brake pads

started on a frame bush...

nuts undo easy but the bolts are stuck solid

have tried a big breaker bar on it, tried the milwalkee impact gun on it, tried hammer.. tried combination of these.

have pondered on taking the side arm of and then see if that eases it, but that is a big nut and bolt.

tempted to heat but which bit....

Any top tips would appreciataed

took the dash warning lights out to change a bulb, LEd ones i had don't fit..

Not a good productive afternoon.

better day tomorrow hopefully

How about a good soak in dismantling fluid rather than a water dispersant.

Or a bigger hammer....LOL

Can you get a long steel rod out to the side to use as a drift? I know it will be at a bit of an angle, but if it fit inside a nut to stop it slipping off, you could get some serious anger into your hammering.

might have the wheel off... give me more access to hit it hard..

just finishing my porridge then workshop bound

Just remove the whole A frame

So Got creative with this


in here and hammer away




then add heat



followed by breaker bar and socket trying not to burn my fingers, bolt turned at one end, kept going braced for a bang and a ring off, bolt kept turned but not at the other end, suspect broken bolt and examining the evidence later had been broke a while


end result the B##ger is off and on the bench waiting an attack by the press

Also got brakes bled and the dash back in..

managed to press the old bush out of the A frame.fulcrum thing... was a proper b##ge@ involved an angle grinder and the press and a lot of heat before it reluctantly parted.

Fitted the new one loosely with long bolts, gently started pressing it then bolts out and gave it the beanz

Refitted it to the axle, can't find anywhere stocking replacement bolts, they are long high tensile and imperial.
Gota farm machinery stockist left to try who keep lots of odd sized bolts, if not will be taking it off and drilling it i guess but that will involve the side arms as well....

frog hopper said:

How about a good soak in dismantling fluid rather than a water dispersant.

Click to expand...

50\50 mix ATF\Acetone is the best release agent...

Thanks @Shippers

Will make a note of that mix for future reference

Today i fitted my self assemble track rod end in the drop arm

Which was an epic involving makeshift press, Heat and a lot of swearing more heat and a delicate shaving of part of it with the bench grinder, aftermarket job by AllMakes 4 x 4, could be code for sh@#part

But all fitted now and the drag link and track rod end and the vehicle roughly tracked.

Now just waiting on Bolts for the A frame as tried all local suppliers and no one including Agricultural suppliers, typical Land rover imperial UNF, thanks to Famous Four who had them on the shelf...so subject to the courier, could be fitted tomorrow.

Just got a bit of tidying up inside and working out which diesel tank is related to switch position

Run up and down the farm road to bed the new brakes in and then probably one more round of bleeding each corner and then MOT.





The loser of yesterdays epic battle, but farm engineering and big heavy tools and machine accompanied by years of cunning and experience and stubbornness and then brute force ensured that we were the winner and the a frame bush certainly looks worse for the fight