Play in Diff?

dave-disco · Jul 6, 2009

Hi All,

I've taken my rear prop off tonight. I was going to renew the UJs to see if it got rid of the clunk when drive is taken up and also replace the rear diff nose oil seal. The plan is once I've done these, if the clunk is still there, then I'll have a crack at the A-frame.

However, when I removed the prop shaft, I noticed that I can move the diff nose in all directions about 1 - 2 mm. Is this normal or is this job about to get more expensive?

Cheers

Trewey · Jul 6, 2009

It might be the input bearing shot.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/how-replace-diff-input-bearing-64301.html

landowner · Jul 6, 2009

dave-disco said:
Hi All,

I've taken my rear prop off tonight. I was going to renew the UJs to see if it got rid of the clunk when drive is taken up and also replace the rear diff nose oil seal. The plan is once I've done these, if the clunk is still there, then I'll have a crack at the A-frame.

However, when I removed the prop shaft, I noticed that I can move the diff nose in all directions about 1 - 2 mm. Is this normal or is this job about to get more expensive?

Cheers

Mine moved about two inches either way efore I replaced it and it wernt too bad if driven carefully.

Trewey · Jul 6, 2009

A bit of rotational play is normal.
There shouldn't really be any up / down, side / side play on the pinion.

dave-disco · Jul 7, 2009

Had a further bit play with the diffs today. I can turn all of them 1/8 of a turn in both directions by hand. I think this may be the cause of the clunk when I let the clutch up. If I rotated the rear diff quickly by hand, it made the same noise that I hear, but not as loud.

Anyone got any thoughts on how much rotational play there should be?

Trewey · Jul 7, 2009

1/8 of a turn is pretty good! Mine's got more like 1/4 turn and doesn't make a noise.
Your clunk is more likely to be the A Frame ball joint.

dave-disco · Jul 7, 2009

would the a-frame clunk happen when pulling away only or when going through the gears as well? Mine does it in all gears, including low range.

dave-disco · Jul 7, 2009

When you do the A-frame ball joint is it good practice to do the bushes on the arms to the body as well? The reason I ask is the bolts are very badly corroded. Think the only way I'll get them off is to cut them or try to split the nuts. 22 years of salt and mud has not done the old girl to good underneath.

Pikey · Jul 7, 2009

Well if the Aframe bush is knackered it stands to reason that the side arm bushes are likely to be in a similar state? & if the bolts are that corroded then surely yu'll feel better knowing ya've changed em & they aren't gonna snap on yu

bustersbus · Jul 7, 2009

dave-disco said:
When you do the A-frame ball joint is it good practice to do the bushes on the arms to the body as well? The reason I ask is the bolts are very badly corroded. Think the only way I'll get them off is to cut them or try to split the nuts. 22 years of salt and mud has not done the old girl to good underneath.

Have a look here ...

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/upper-link-frame-bushes-renewal-65602.html

...if ye're thinkin' of doin' the bushes.
It might be that if the bushes have bin in there for 22yrs they might be buggered.. go for the easy fix first

If that doesn't cure it then do the ball joint... or at least take the bit off and take it somewheres with a big press.

Play in Diff?

dave-disco

New Member

Trewey

Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.

landowner

Pensioner Pete

Trewey

Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.

dave-disco

New Member

Trewey

Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.

dave-disco

New Member

dave-disco

New Member

Pikey

Dummy Ejection Facilitator..

bustersbus

Well-Known Member

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