passenger and drive lock issues- defender 90, 1991

hey there, (i have many little issues with the defender)

I have a defender 90 (1991, H reg), 200tdi

my passenger lock wont unluck from the outside but opens fine from inside.

Whereas the more annoying thing, my drivers door does not always unlock from the inside, but always from the outside. Role reversal? lol. So half the time I want to get out of the landy I have to wind the window down to escape. Any ideas what this could be, has anyone had the same problem? It seems to be especialy a problem when I dont shut door 100% shut, but still a problem sometimes when I slam it shut (with care).

Is this something a novice can fix? I have the Haynes manual, which includes a small section about the lock, but not really abour problem solving. ie fixing a faulty lock.

Mine does the same thing on the drives door. Strip the door panel off and have a look. I am assuming it is down to bent or misaligned links.

Dont think it is a big job just well down my list to do

Andy

Andy would that be your to do list on your landy?

I completed two things today. Seal up my rear light and fix the leak in the side of the roof, oh and the third sort out the leak on my rear wheel. My landy has issues lol

Yep - the list on the landy just gets longer and longer. Have spent this year building the garage which is fantastic but not quite finished yet. It is high enough to fit the 110 in with roofrack and the jerry cans on top, wide enough and long enough that I have 2m on every side of the landy is double glazed and has a stove - oh happy days

Neads the floor finished painting etc. Every time something goes wrong it gets added to the - Ill do that when the garage is finished. I now have about 50 jobs on the list - lol

Is the outside lock turning or is it jamed - if its jamed its likely the pins in the barrel are stuck - you can pick up a new set of barrels for a few quid from ebay - easy job to change - you just have to remove the door pannel, and then remove the small screw that holds it into the lock - its a pain to get to this screw as the internal panel gets in the way - best to drill a small hole to get the screw driver through. - You have to put the key into the lock to align the pins - as ther stuck you may have to drill the lock barrel - be careful - once you have removed the screw.

well the locks. I was playing about today with my passenger lock (the one I can unlock from within, but not outside. Well today I got my key in, really stiff, but I managed to lock the door. But, kept trying afterwards and I had no luck.

While the other drivers door, the lock outside the door works perfectly fine. Its just when I pull the handle from withinside it doesnt always release the door fully, only partly. so you can see air through it. a couple of times, the door has just opened like that when driving (but still half locked as it were.

Could it be the pins for the passenger side? and links in the drivers side? Do I need to get some links or something, or do I just bend stuff to make it work?

Lee

I plan to take down the door panels and have a really good look at them over the weekend as was doing other jobs on the land today.


That garage sounds like your living the dream. I have been working in a half garage, and the snow and cold gets me good. I slide under the landy, and im getting wet like a fish

Had the same problem mesel'. Dunno if this'll give give ye an idea or not.....

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/door-lock-renewal-79426.html

Ye can drill a hole in the inner panel to gain access to the screw that holds the barrel in place, but ah've not tried changin' the barrel that way yet!

Forgot to say, What condition is the plastic bit on the catch that's attached tae the body? If it's worn, it won't help to fully knock the jaw on the door into place

bustersbus said:

but ah've not tried changin' the barrel that way yet!

Click to expand...

Works a treat - cuts a good hour off the job - makes it a bit obvious you have changed the locks if you come to sell it - but i guess nobody is ever going to go looking

just read your " this is what I did earlier " how to things. Great detail and boosts my confidence in changing a lock. Do I need to worry about the glass? Also, I heard you can get a new lock barrel on ebay. But what type do I need exactly? Defender 90, or are they all the same? Or would panack spares do them etc. Still what one tho.

What about the other door tho? the one with the lock working fine. ie from outside, but getting out of the landy is not always easy. Sometimes have to wind window down, to unlock handle from outside.

The handle inside the landy is always sticking out, about a 0.5 - 1cm from the door. I also noticed on my lock catch, the bottom bit that hocks (metal part ), is starting to look flattened, like maybe its rubbing on something? ie not setting fully, and thus catching and not allowing me to get out of landy the normal way. wonders if the wire or what ever it is from the handle to the door catch is lose? Is this possible. Ill go and unlock the door now and check it out. but not sure where to go from here.

I got the ones off ebay - make sure you get them from a reasonably good looking seller. As for the door that will not open from the inside - the only way to tell is to have a look

It is a very sinple mechanism insde - the glass should not get in the way if you keep it up. Either way never be afraid to remove anything from a landy - it usualy helps it run better - and is usualy very easy to fix/put back together:croc:

update: I got the door cover off and had a good look at my lock mechanisms on both doors. I got the old dw40 and sprayed like a mad man. I seem to have fixed the lock issues on my drivers side (which sometimes didnt open from within). The passanger side, well everything moves and looks sound apart from the masses of rush on the bottom of the door (just touching it, and some of the door vanished before my eyes). I did manage to lock the door twice today, but really stiff, and was half thinking the key might brake. Cant unlock it tho. I think I need a new lock barrel. Right? as before, what one and where do I get these from?

oh, cheers James. Didn't show up before. I have just been looking on ebay and found that this unit number are the most common. MTC 6504. the dates cover mine, and descirption of doors, ie push button etc all fits with my landy. (defender 90, 1991, 200tdi). Im also finding, that playing about with the landy and taking it apart is pretty rewarding also. Well when problems are fixed Even if its that im just learning from my mistakes.

Not sure of part number, but they are all the same, should be about an inch long with 4(i think) blades in it.

If the barrel is turning then you will be able to remove it - i would advise you to remove the barrel first and see if you can free i up, you just simple need to remove the screw from the inside, put the key in and pull (or if its stiff - puch with a screwcriver/drill from the inside)

thats one of tommorrows jobs lined up Cheers James

ok, I drilled the door, and got the lock barrel out (4 pin as you said) with no problem at all. I have then applied lashings of DW40 to the barrel. If I put the key in, some of the pins pop up, some remain where they were, but what am I looking for exactly, to see if its good or not.

The idea is when the key is in the correct place (i.e. all the way in) the pins should be perfectly alligned with the side of the barrel (i.e. not sticking out either side) - this is the basic way a barrel lock works

The simple way to pick one of these is to put some turning pressure on the barrel, and then get the pins to align in the correct place by 'flicking' them so they catch on the side of the lock that normal prevents the barrel from turning when the key is not in the correct place (simple really) - maybe i should have not posted how to break into a landy on here :mad2: - a way to prevent amatures from picking the lcok is to make sure the edges of the pins are not sharp 90 degree angles, and to put a small curve on them as they don't stick in the correct place as easy as they do when they are sharp edges - a small file will help.

Obviously somebody wanting to get in will just use a power drill/coat hanger (as you will have seen how easy it would be) and not spend 10 mins picking the lock (unless its you trying to get in without damaging the thing after you lock you keys inside - SO THINK BEFORE YOU MODIFY THE BARREL PINS!)

Hope this helps

James (a master in the art of breaking and entering:mil80

I agree James, obviously they can get in if they want. So with the key the pins are not flush, and infact stick out of the barrel. (I have never had this door working properly since I had the landy, and wonder if the key even fits the lock lol, but I have locked it a couple of times with the key after jiggling the key in it for a minute or so). I refitted the old lock, and when I try to turn the lock, all that moves in the lock thing, is the screw that holds it in. It turns, and the plastic bit jiggles a little. I wonder if there is something wrong with the plastic, and maybe thats stoping it?

Does sound like you may have the wrong key for the lock. Mine was like this when I got it. Had three different keys and the only one that worked was the drivers door other two did nothing. Just replaced all the locks. Sounds like yours may have had a replacment door put on at some time.

As for the plastic bit I can't recall exactly how it fits but it does have a mechanism to allow the barrel to return to the center after mmoving the lever so I know it's not bolted directly to the barrel, there is some sort of mechanism that allows lever to turn independantly of the barrel.

The rear door lock was recently changed before I got it, and I noticed the door catch thing is new on the drivers side. I am thinking put a lock that I know works in the pass. door. If works, then I know its just the lock. Ill then order some barrels, and replace all. Little annoying having to guess which key does what lol.