Painting axles

trax said:

afaik, red oxide is now made with zinc phosphate, like a lot of 'anti rust' grey primers. Zinc rich, high 90s, is good stuff as it forms the sacrificial coat. Cold galv spray is this. Heavy and pricey paint

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hmm must let the steel industry subject matter experts know... fancy them wasting millions on products such as temaprime when good old red oxide is great..... what fools they are lol

http://www.tikkurila.com/industrial_coatings/metal_surfaces/metal_surfaces/metal_products/traditional_products/temaprime_eur.2640.shtml

cheers steve

ebbadger said:

hmm must let the steel industry subject matter experts know... fancy them wasting millions on products such as temaprime when good old red oxide is great..... what fools they are lol

Traditional products - Tikkurila | Industrial Coatings | Metal surfaces | Metal surfaces | Metal products | Traditional products

cheers steve

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Red oxide paint is OK, the steel industry would have moved away from it even if the lead wasn't baned as better, more advanced solutions are available with the advances in modern chemistry. There are better options available than the red oxides but they are still ok for home use.

As has been said though I dont rate hammerite on impact surfaces, you want a more flexible paint, my experience is m,ore with finishing paints though so thats as far as my input is going....

trax said:

afaik, red oxide is now made with zinc phosphate, like a lot of 'anti rust' grey primers. Zinc rich, high 90s, is good stuff as it forms the sacrificial coat. Cold galv spray is this. Heavy and pricey paint

Click to expand...

ebbadger said:

hmm must let the steel industry subject matter experts know... fancy them wasting millions on products such as temaprime when good old red oxide is great..... what fools they are lol

Traditional products - Tikkurila | Industrial Coatings | Metal surfaces | Metal surfaces | Metal products | Traditional products

cheers steve

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since that went over your head :whoosh:

Good zinc rich paint will typically be in the high 90s for the dry film (but this can get complicated). This means it can form the sacrificial cathodic protection which gives long term protection.

You can get paint with a lesser percentage of zinc which are not as good.

zinc phosphate is not the same as zinc rich paint, it gives less protection. This is what I think what modern red oxide now is.

that temaprime eur doesn't look to be very good, but they do better paints with cathodic protection. here's one temazinc ee

remember the steel industry will be balancing cost vs results. zinc rich paints are very expensive, so they'll use a cheaper option with good, but less protection.

Mark L said:

You could always go the whole hog and get them acid dipped like I have:

My mate is etch priming and painting them this week via a spray gun.

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shouldn't you have stuck a rust inhibitor on after dipping?

:clap2:

trax said:

shouldn't you have stuck a rust inhibitor on after dipping?

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I didn't want to put anything on that would affect the application of etch primer and paint.
And here they are today. :clap2:



Sweet.

I epoxy painted mine first

And then black acrylic paint..........and yes i know when the black gets chipped i will get yellow patches

I just use exterior gloss paint, whatever is on offer at b&q/homebase/wickes etc etc.

interesting reading,

I have painted about 1/3rd of my chassis with
- a couple of layers of finnegans no1 rust beater paint
- a couple of layers of hammerite black paint

Before doing that i jet washed it and used a wire brush over all areas then wiped down with white spirit.

I was planning on spraying waxoyl into the chassis box sections, would it be worth spraying waxoyl or underseal stuff over the paint on the outside of the chassis to provide stone chip protection?

Also any tips for the waxoyl into the box sections, i have heard you can mix it with engine oil to provide a longer lasting coating and also to provide some penetration into any dirt in there. Any mileage in this?

Cheers

Ed

Mark L said:

:clap2:

I didn't want to put anything on that would affect the application of etch primer and paint.
And here they are today. :clap2:

Sweet.

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superb job

cheers steve

flat said:

interesting reading,

I have painted about 1/3rd of my chassis with
- a couple of layers of finnegans no1 rust beater paint
- a couple of layers of hammerite black paint

Before doing that i jet washed it and used a wire brush over all areas then wiped down with white spirit.

I was planning on spraying waxoyl into the chassis box sections, would it be worth spraying waxoyl or underseal stuff over the paint on the outside of the chassis to provide stone chip protection?

Also any tips for the waxoyl into the box sections, i have heard you can mix it with engine oil to provide a longer lasting coating and also to provide some penetration into any dirt in there. Any mileage in this?

Cheers

Ed

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You could block the holes up in the chassis and then fill it with old engine oil. Drive round for a week or two then drain it all out and unplug the holes.
Would not rust after that.