- Posts
- 3,837
- Location
- Near Heathrow.
Les at CRNW would be a good one to ask about programming.
From the info received when I sent a FOB to be repaired, they just take the chip from your dead FOB and transplant it to the PCB from a working FOB. The cannot program the FOB unless things have changed recently.
It's easy enough to capture the output of the FOB including the rolling code and the FOB number, the problem comes in entering that information into the memory of the chip for which you need specialist kit. I can't even buy the chips as the manufacturers of the chip will only sell to bona fide FOB manufacturers for security reasons. There are companies that will clone your FOB, but the FOB construction is different as is the electronics.Marty had a little board with an LED he had made. I think he had talked to MrSporty about how to do it, hence why I think they can both do it and why I suspect Les from Classic Rides North Wales may also have the capability. He connected the board to his laptop and when I pressed the button on my fob he captured the code. I cannot remember how it was encoded but there was no encyption. He was able to show me the fob code and the key number which did indeed match the number on the back of the key. I'm pretty sure there was a rolling code as well but I cannot recall the order they were in.
First let me say thank you to Brian for sending me 2 FOB's.Well the k.l.c.k fobs do appear to be made by HUFF and are the same quality even the key has the huff logo, if they can be programed it will be a result but will have to look into it a bit more, but in the mean time I now have a spare fob that works in the lock just cost more to have the blade cut than the fob
The fobs come in the open position the blades slot in and the small roll pin holds it in, you can see the hole when you close it a bit they are a bit of a fiddle and i had to line it up and push it in with grips.First let me say thank you to Brian for sending me 2 FOB's.
I had a chance to have a quick look at one of the FOB's today. It's all a bit of a puzzle. The chip contains code, I don't have a means of storing the trace at the moment so doing a comparison with a working FOB is difficult but the first part of the trace looks near enough identical to the trace from my FOB. Now the puzzling bit. The FOB came with batteries fitted but no blade fitted. The case is bonded shut, so fitting the blade requires splitting the case which will cause some damage, so why no blade fitted? Programming the chip requires access to the chip, again not possible without splitting the case.
The case moulding has some very small differences to the moulding compared to the 6 genuine FOB's I have in my possession. I suspect the FOB's are knock off, as the LED flashes, they could easily be sold on Ebay as working FOB's but that is just a guess.
My next step will be to split the case to see what chip is fitted, there have been at least 2 different chips fitted to my certain knowledge. I will investigate further as and when time permits.
@brianp38dse
I confess I had not noticed that, I was more interested in the electronics. Still doesn't answer how the chip would be programmed to the vehicle though.The fobs come in the open position the blades slot in and the small roll pin holds it in, you can see the hole when you close it a bit they are a bit of a fiddle and i had to line it up and push it in with grips.
I will look into those pads when I split the case.I had assumed that programming was achieved via the round PCB pads you can see when the battery holder is removed - these are often used as test points on larger PCB's for automated testing. You can see them in the pictures Brian posted earlier in the thread.
If I can work out how to attach a picture I'll take one of the IC I removed from the new fob what I switched the IC's over to make the fully working fob.
I did (at least I think) find out why the old fob was playing up so much BTW - when I removed the original IC from the old fob, I found a stray surface mount capacitor laying across the two tracks under the chip - well, this and the crap soldering on the replacement buttons, but I wasn't about to re-solder the IC back to check since I'd gone that far.
New here, as for my sins purchased a p38 from a nice old couple, August 1st. 2.5 diesel....runs exactly as it should but for a new phantom.If the vehicle unlocks off the fob, but refuses to lock, check the ignition barrel isn't sticking. If the ignition thinks the key is still in there the car won't lock.
Check the display isn't saying "key in Ignition" & if so, give it a tap underneath. This should solve the problem.
Hello and welcome
Key in ignition is the lock wants some electrical contact cleaner squirted in to clean the lock left to dry then some graphite powder blown in, if the little key block does not cover the key hole the BECM will not go to sleep and drain battery and so will the door lock playing up have a run through this test
@Zaphodbb I think you are correct about the 4 pads visible when the batteries are removed being programming pads. I have not checked them properly yet but at least 2 go to the chipI had assumed that programming was achieved via the round PCB pads you can see when the battery holder is removed - these are often used as test points on larger PCB's for automated testing. You can see them in the pictures Brian posted earlier in the thread.
If I can work out how to attach a picture I'll take one of the IC I removed from the new fob what I switched the IC's over to make the fully working fob.
I did (at least I think) find out why the old fob was playing up so much BTW - when I removed the original IC from the old fob, I found a stray surface mount capacitor laying across the two tracks under the chip - well, this and the crap soldering on the replacement buttons, but I wasn't about to re-solder the IC back to check since I'd gone that far.
Got this done and the fob is working with all doors except the drivers. The drivers door with key, locks all and sets the alarm, but it does not go to sleep.Hello and welcome
Key in ignition is the lock wants some electrical contact cleaner squirted in to clean the lock left to dry then some graphite powder blown in, if the little key block does not cover the key hole the BECM will not go to sleep and drain battery and so will the door lock playing up have a run through this test
So take apart the full motor latch mechanism and then replace with new. I am willing to try, though limited in knowledge but can usually work through most things. Is there a supplier?It's a fiddly job, but the micro switches in the door lock can be replaced.
In my limited, Sorry, capabilities, these tests are done with a multi-metre?Got this done and the fob is working with all doors except the drivers. The drivers door with key, locks all and sets the alarm, but it does not go to sleep.
Is this behind the p assenger seat drivers side? And what should I look for?+1.
Check the RF receiver version you have as well as that can burn out door-locks.
Is this behind the p assenger seat drivers side? And what should I look for?+1.
Check the RF receiver version you have as well as that can burn out door-locks.
Under the parcel shelf support drivers side.Is this behind the p assenger seat drivers side? And what should I look for?
Thanks.
CheersUnder the parcel shelf support drivers side.
Welcome To LandyZone, the Land Rover Forums!
Here at LandyZone we have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place.
Registering is free and easy just click here, we hope to see you on the forums soon!