P38A Remote not locking (but does unlock)

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flex38 said:
This is my third battery, brand new, out of the box….
this one, silver batt 9000 120ah 1000cca per advertised and per label.

I’m sick of batteries!
Click to expand...

What's the output from your alternator? 1000 CCA will be a calcium battery and need a set point over 14 volts, preferably 14.5 V or more. Older alternators only kicked out 13.8 V which will slowly poison the battery.

Battery drain will kill them fast too.

If sometimes drains and sometimes doesn't then might be how close to RF interference it is parked. In my case it was a wireless weather station although there was also something in a car-park in town that did it.
 
Grrrrrr said:
What's the output from your alternator? 1000 CCA will be a calcium battery and need a set point over 14 volts, preferably 14.5 V or more. Older alternators only kicked out 13.8 V which will slowly poison the battery.

Battery drain will kill them fast too.

If sometimes drains and sometimes doesn't then might be how close to RF interference it is parked. In my case it was a wireless weather station although there was also something in a car-park in town that did it.
Click to expand...
Hi,

I will tackle the rf and unplug, and i will check the Altenator output. Should I also change the door actuator on the Drivers side or just use key only or will the lack of CDL function from remote and superlock cause more issues?

Thanks for your help.
 
flex38 said:
Hi,

I will tackle the rf and unplug, and i will check the Altenator output. Should I also change the door actuator on the Drivers side or just use key only or will the lack of CDL function from remote and superlock cause more issues?

Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...
You can only operate the car with the key if you turn off EKA and Immobilser in the BECM otherwise you will have to enter the EKA code every time you unlock the car. Even with just the use of the key, the micro switches in the drivers door lock need to function correctly. I operate both my P38's with EKA and Immobiliser turned off, saves a lot of hassle.
 
To turn off the EKA and immobiliser, is done easily or is it through a mechanic/shop with computer setup?

Just unplugged the rf, both connectors, the black box with blue dot. cant start the P38. ‘Press remote” is the message. Plug back in, it starts. Then after aforethought from above messages, II just unplugged the one small connector. Sat inside. BeCM went to sleep and stayed so for 5 minutes until I decided to get out. Not like before with asleep after two and then awake again after 15 sec…..
I will check a few more times, but here is hoping. No celebration yet.

if I remove the complete unit what is needed to disengage the immobiliser.

will I not now need a drivers door latch/actuator, if the BecM now continues to sleep?

on another note alternator is 14.15 to 14.20 output. Is this adequate for the 120ah (calcium) I’ve been told not?
 

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flex38 said:
To turn off the EKA and immobiliser, is done easily or is it through a mechanic/shop with computer setup?

Just unplugged the rf, both connectors, the black box with blue dot. cant start the P38. ‘Press remote” is the message. Plug back in, it starts. Then after aforethought from above messages, II just unplugged the one small connector. Sat inside. BeCM went to sleep and stayed so for 5 minutes until I decided to get out. Not like before with asleep after two and then awake again after 15 sec…..
I will check a few more times, but here is hoping. No celebration yet.

if I remove the complete unit what is needed to disengage the immobiliser.

will I not now need a drivers door latch/actuator, if the BecM now continues to sleep?

on another note alternator is 14.15 to 14.20 output. Is this adequate for the 120ah (calcium) I’ve been told not?
Click to expand...
Diagnostics such as Nanocom are needed to turn off EKA and the immobiliser.
Not a good idea to use the car without the receiver as using the key all the time may break the actuator arm, it's a bit weak. Second had RF receivers are available on Ebay but the MK3 version is expensive and often actually a MK1 or MK2 in the MK labled box.
14.20 is on the low side for your battery, you should see 14.7/14.8 volts immediately after starting.
 
Receiver plugged back in, and just left the antenna off of the vehicle. The BecM has gone to sleep 3 times now and not reawakened. So can it stay like this or should I get a newer version, and also change the drivers door latch as the CDL is a fail so does not work with remote, although all the other doors do.

Thanks ever so much for your help in this!
 
flex38 said:
Receiver plugged back in, and just left the antenna off of the vehicle. The BecM has gone to sleep 3 times now and not reawakened. So can it stay like this or should I get a newer version, and also change the drivers door latch as the CDL is a fail so does not work with remote, although all the other doors do.

Thanks ever so much for your help in this!
Click to expand...
You can leave the antenna unplugged but it's not an ideal solution as if the FOB loses sync, it makes it difficult to resync it. There are cheaper options to a replacement RF receiver one is a second FOB and receiver that isolates the car receiver until the second FOB is activated, it is also possible to buy a filter that will fix the problem @martyuk did them at one time but he's not around at the moment. I think there are filters available on Ebay. A MK3 receiver is the best option if funds allow.
 
Last edited:
Thanks,

I will look at the mk3 as the last choice. I had checked with Marty but he does not have any at this time, but may get to make some in the future. The other option I am not familiar with but will try to do a search on this.

thanks, again, so much on your help.
 
flex38 said:
To turn off the EKA and immobiliser, is done easily or is it through a mechanic/shop with computer setup?

Just unplugged the rf, both connectors, the black box with blue dot. cant start the P38. ‘Press remote” is the message. Plug back in, it starts. Then after aforethought from above messages, II just unplugged the one small connector. Sat inside. BeCM went to sleep and stayed so for 5 minutes until I decided to get out. Not like before with asleep after two and then awake again after 15 sec…..
I will check a few more times, but here is hoping. No celebration yet.

if I remove the complete unit what is needed to disengage the immobiliser.

will I not now need a drivers door latch/actuator, if the BecM now continues to sleep?

on another note alternator is 14.15 to 14.20 output. Is this adequate for the 120ah (calcium) I’ve been told not?
Click to expand...

Blue dot is original RF unit. Cannot recall the new part number but it is on here somewhere. @martyuk made a cheaper filter unit and @brianp38dse has an even cheaper 2 fob fix using a jog-switch.
 
Here you go the cheap fob trick.
www.landyzone.co.uk

rf reciever work round

hi, been asked to give some more details on my fix, got fed up with having to use fob at back window as had blue aerial wire disconnected so fitted, if I can remember correctly a 2ch remote relay from fleebay same as this one but with two remotes, one each me and the wife DC 12V Remote Control...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
 
One for start of the new week.

I did Marty’s test (out of the car) in the old LH door latch which I had removed and replaced. To see about motor.
For CDL button down (jumps around til it settles) 00.7 button up 0.L
Unlatched 00.2 Latched 0.L
CDL motor 16.5 to 18.5 super lock 33.8

No expert here, but this looks right (so why did it not work when it was in the door)?
Should I attempt to fit it into the drivers side? Is there a way to bench simulate the motor into action?
another question part FQJ102292PMA LHD - LH IS £48.45 RIGHT NOW. Perhaps buy this and remove the motor and use in the existing drivers door (Or one of the other similar parts)?

Any thoughts on this?
 
flex38 said:
One for start of the new week.

I did Marty’s test (out of the car) in the old LH door latch which I had removed and replaced. To see about motor.
For CDL button down (jumps around til it settles) 00.7 button up 0.L
Unlatched 00.2 Latched 0.L
CDL motor 16.5 to 18.5 super lock 33.8

No expert here, but this looks right (so why did it not work when it was in the door)?
Should I attempt to fit it into the drivers side? Is there a way to bench simulate the motor into action?
another question part FQJ102292PMA LHD - LH IS £48.45 RIGHT NOW. Perhaps buy this and remove the motor and use in the existing drivers door (Or one of the other similar parts)?

Any thoughts on this?
Click to expand...
If that 00.7 is ohms, it's not good, switch closed should read zero. I assume that 0.L is your DVM open circuit reading.
 
Zaphodbb said:
Hi Datatek,
Chip inside the remote is a Motorola MC705K1CDW
other markings are:
XLAA9925
700030 17B

Looks like this seller has them on eBay (USA) 10 for under £12
www.ebay.co.uk

MOTOROLA MC68HC705K1CDW 16-Pin SMD Microcontroller MC705K1CDW Qty-10 | eBay

We will hold orders until you are finished buying. I-DEAL Components.
www.ebay.co.uk
Click to expand...
So all you need is a suitable PROM programmer and the code. As and when I have time I'm attempting to do a circuit diagram of the FOB, I will then scope the chip to see what is going on. I'm not entirely convinced the chip data sheet I have is the correct one.
 
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