P38 V8 Sump Gasket?

Hi folks,

First post, so hi!
I've got a few oil leaks on my '98 4.6 P38 and was hoping to stop it marking it's territory by a little at least!

One of the leaks is from around the sump, looking at gasket change and RAVE cd says apply bead of gasket sealant in various widths...just wondered if this is the only option or if there is a proper gasket you could buy?

Any help greatly appreciated!

Take a look at front timing gasket

Cheers for the reply. Will have a look at the front timing gasket, though it certainly seems to be leaking from the passenger side rocker cover and the sump seal. Anyone have any experience with removing/replacing sump gasket wise?

The GEMS does not have a sump gasket. Use a bead of Silicone type RTV sealant, Make sure that joint faces are free of oil and clean before you apply it. Fllow instructions on RAVE for bead sizes.
Places to check for oil leaks, especially at the rear of the engine are Rocker Cover gaskets and valley gasket end seals.
At the front of the engine, Timing cover gasket, Crank pulley oil seal, oil cooler pipe connection at the bottom of the timing cover.

cheers for more input.
Thought I had less chance of screwing it up if there was a proper gasket I could use!

Need to change the rocker gaskets, gotta do an oil change soon so I'll drop the sump and re-do the seal...will check the seals/gaskets on the front a bit more thoroughly but most of the oil seems to be at the back of the engine.

Thanks again guys!

The "Draught" created by the engine cooling fan tends to blow the oil towards the back of the engine.

I would steam clean the engine first run for a few days then recheck for leaks sometimes it is the smallest leak
Land rover scrapped the sump gasket in the 1990 never used one cause more trouble than good as it is a cork joby they usually leak as soon as you fit it

vougese39 said:

I would steam clean the engine first run for a few days then recheck for leaks sometimes it is the smallest leak
Land rover scrapped the sump gasket in the 1990 never used one cause more trouble than good as it is a cork joby they usually leak as soon as you fit it

Click to expand...

Steam a P38 Arrrgh. Sure way of causing problems

Well I'm still gettin to know the engine, so changing the gaskets won't cause too much probs hopefully. Is it a tricky job changing the valley gasket end seals? Is it worth putting a new inlet manifold gasket on at the same time? Or is it better to leave it alone unless I know it aint working?
Thanks again for the input guys, much appreciated!

Never steam a P38..........get a tiny bit in the lektriks and you'll regret it!!

Never had an issues I do ever car I service as long as the engine is running and you are careful you will not have an issue if there was I would not offer it as a idea to help find the leak

Is the newer aluminium sump a straight swap for the pressed steel version?

My steel sump is leaking and I'd like to know if it's worth spending out on the newer version, will it give me less leaks in the long run?

Or should I just stick to using gasket compound on my steel sump and keep an eye on it?

Many thanks,

Al.

Can't help ya with the aluminium sump, but putting the hylosil/hylomar beading around the old sump was an easy enough job (still need to replace my crank pulley oil seal though).
Only suggestion I'd make is to jack the sump lightly into place to stop it sliding around while you tighten the bolts.