P38A P38 up and down EAS

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mikerajjers

mikerajjers

Well-Known Member
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Location
Bedford UK or Trnava SK
Hi, before I investigate with laptop... P38 continuously cycles up and down on front, though not to extremities. Sensors were replaced couple months ago for brand new ones, so am thinking whether they nee to be calibrated or something? This has been happening for a while it seems but the old compressor was on its way out so I didn't notice so much. I put a new compressor in a couple of months ago. I hadn't noticed before, only over the weekend when I was doing a coolant flush. I could hear the compressor continuously coming on and off for weeks. Cheers
 
mikerajjers said:
Hi, before I investigate with laptop... P38 continuously cycles up and down on front, though not to extremities. Sensors were replaced couple months ago for brand new ones, so am thinking whether they nee to be calibrated or something? This has been happening for a while it seems but the old compressor was on its way out so I didn't notice so much. I put a new compressor in a couple of months ago. I hadn't noticed before, only over the weekend when I was doing a coolant flush. I could hear the compressor continuously coming on and off for weeks. Cheers
Click to expand...
If new sensors are fitted they have to be calibrated at all heights. If the bit count has a difference of more than 5 between the front sensors, it will dance up and down. It's also possible that there is a leaking air spring as that can cause the same symptoms.
 
I blew.... Hang on, rephrase!!
A bag blew off on a 4x4 course in the dust when a shock had lost its lower post.. It popped back into place by itself as the car dropped down onto it... They are pretty tough in that sense.
 
I've done som investigation... all four corners go up and down continuously hence why I didn't visually notice whilst sat in it. Could it be a leaky bag? When the car is parked for a couple of days it doesn't drop until about 3-4 days later.

My feeling is that they haven't been calibrated properly. I couldnt read the codes on my Windows 10 notebook with USB to RS-232 adaptor. I will see if my mate has an old notebook lying about wih XP still on it. Front sensors were replaced, EAS control unit, all bags as well, compressor and valve block seals as well. I have a new valve block set off Kurt so wondering whether to swap that out as well.

First things first I guess, I will try to read the values and codes. I will report back. If worst comes to worst I will put it on springs. There are zero experts over here in Slovakia for P38 range rovers :)
 
mikerajjers said:
I've done som investigation... all four corners go up and down continuously hence why I didn't visually notice whilst sat in it. Could it be a leaky bag? When the car is parked for a couple of days it doesn't drop until about 3-4 days later.

My feeling is that they haven't been calibrated properly. I couldnt read the codes on my Windows 10 notebook with USB to RS-232 adaptor. I will see if my mate has an old notebook lying about wih XP still on it. Front sensors were replaced, EAS control unit, all bags as well, compressor and valve block seals as well. I have a new valve block set off Kurt so wondering whether to swap that out as well.

First things first I guess, I will try to read the values and codes. I will report back. If worst comes to worst I will put it on springs. There are zero experts over here in Slovakia for P38 range rovers :)
Click to expand...
As said previously, new sensors need to be calibrated. swapping stuff willy nilly just leads to more problems.
The RSW EAS software works fine on Win 10 via a USB to serial adaptor provided the correct driver is loaded BEFORE the adaptor i plugged in. However some adaptors are no longer supported by Win 10, I had to buy a new one.
 
Datatek said:
As said previously, new sensors need to be calibrated. swapping stuff willy nilly just leads to more problems.
The RSW EAS software works fine on Win 10 via a USB to serial adaptor provided the correct driver is loaded BEFORE the adaptor i plugged in. However some adaptors are no longer supported by Win 10, I had to buy a new one.
Click to expand...
I got the air suspension looked at by a company in the Czech Republic in spring this year and they did al the jobs above, but I am not convinced they did a proper job so decided to investigate. I got this error message. Adaptor should be ok, on the box it says "supports win 10" though I did plug in the OBD connector before pluging in notebook

upload_2022-12-18_12-14-3.png
 
Cheap chinese USB-Serial will not work 95% of the time. It should ideally be an FTDI adapter.
Plug it in, and then check in "Device Manager" that the hardware is actually FTDI.
Next check the Driver tab. If necessary remove any MS Windows drivers, and then download FTDI driver installer & run it.
In some cases you need to install the driver with the USB-Serial adapter disconnected, and only plug it in after the driver is installed.


upload_2022-12-18_11-50-47.png


upload_2022-12-18_11-52-17.png
#


upload_2022-12-18_11-54-31.png
 
mikerajjers said:
Yeah, the cable adapter is a cheap UGREEN one. The ports seem to be ok and I installed the driver but no communication. Will this cable be ok do you think?

https://ftdichip.com/products/chipi-x10/
and from a webshop ...
https://www.sos.sk/products/ftdi/ch...-aKH81_BZU_Hobw5xCzKHKLEZQ7bScsRoCOecQAvD_BwE
Click to expand...
The adaptor has to be FTDI for Win 10 and later plus it also has to support the RTS/DTS protocol. There is no indication that the adaptor you have supports the RTS/DTS protocol, many don't. Again as said before, if you plugged the adaptor in before installing the correct driver, Win will install a generic driver that doesn't support the RTS/DTS protocol so it will not work.
 
Ok, I didn't realise there were so many variations. Datatek or pwood999 do you have a link to an adaptor that will work please? If possible in the EU so that I can avoid customs?

I installed the driver that came with the adaptor before plugging into notebook and this one is selected, definitely not just the generic Microsoft one.
 
mikerajjers said:
Ok, I didn't realise there were so many variations. Datatek or pwood999 do you have a link to an adaptor that will work please? If possible in the EU so that I can avoid customs?

I installed the driver that came with the adaptor before plugging into notebook and this one is selected, definitely not just the generic Microsoft one.
Click to expand...
Does your laptop have standard USB sockets or micro USB sockets?
 
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