P38 transfer box and rear propshaft

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T

trukka

New Member
Posts
80
Location
London N9
Hi folks,

Following my earlier thread about transmission noise - wammer suggested front diff nose bearing - which will do soon. My mechanic was driving the car and reckons the tranfer box is suspect. What would make the noise in the TB when lifting off the gas ?

Re rear propshaft I saw a thread about a rubber "damper" between the UJ and rear diff flange and also saw them on sale on Ebay - my P38 rear UJ is bolted directly to the rear diff flange - 1999 4.6 - Rave makes no mention that I could see re a rubber damper - any ideas ?

Thanks
 
trukka said:
Hi folks,

Following my earlier thread about transmission noise - wammer suggested front diff nose bearing - which will do soon. My mechanic was driving the car and reckons the tranfer box is suspect. What would make the noise in the TB when lifting off the gas ?

Re rear propshaft I saw a thread about a rubber "damper" between the UJ and rear diff flange and also saw them on sale on Ebay - my P38 rear UJ is bolted directly to the rear diff flange - 1999 4.6 - Rave makes no mention that I could see re a rubber damper - any ideas ?

Thanks
Click to expand...

No personal experience, but I think a worn morse chain in the transfer box is the most likely cause otherwise bearings. By all accounts it's not too bad a job to replace the chain.
 
no but box is beautyfully designed and is eay to fix ,chains contary to popular belief are more than over engineered and give less faults than epyclics for noise or brgs ,you can check t/box by removing one prop at time and run on other if niether makes any difference could be t/box
 
Removing front prop is ok, but removing rear prop is surely going to mean that ALL drive is going thro` the VC? Not recommended!
Morse chain not accessable without dropping transfer box. I bought a Morse chain to swop over when I did my VC unit, but although the VC was a pain-free job, in situ, I decided not to drop the box to change the chain.
If you do want a Morse chain PM me cause I got one laying around agthering dust on the box...
 
gtland said:
Removing front prop is ok, but removing rear prop is surely going to mean that ALL drive is going thro` the VC? Not recommended!
Morse chain not accessable without dropping transfer box. I bought a Morse chain to swop over when I did my VC unit, but although the VC was a pain-free job, in situ, I decided not to drop the box to change the chain.
If you do want a Morse chain PM me cause I got one laying around agthering dust on the box...
Click to expand...

The drive goes through the VC with the front prop removed. No difference if front is left on and rear removed.
 
I may be mis-understanding this but; with front prop removed all the drive will, as you say go thro` the VC, it will therefore be (over a period of time) over-work / over heat the VC. I don`t reckon this is good on a vehicle likely to have lots of miles & maybe coming up for a new VC anyway. Maybe take the front prop off diagnosis only, but not for more than a coupla miles.
 
gtland said:
I may be mis-understanding this but; with front prop removed all the drive will, as you say go thro` the VC, it will therefore be (over a period of time) over-work / over heat the VC. I don`t reckon this is good on a vehicle likely to have lots of miles & maybe coming up for a new VC anyway. Maybe take the front prop off diagnosis only, but not for more than a coupla miles.
Click to expand...
The VCU does not "drive" front or rear, it locks the diff. If either prop is removed the VCU will be forced to lock to stop front or rear diff output spinning. Not to be recomended as it was not designed to take that much stick for any length of time:eek:
 
hi rewmer

the effect I am getting seems to be a rhythmic sound as opposed to a vibration - unless the vibes are causing something to make noise - there is a tiny bit of play in the UJ on the rear of the front propshaft - in only one plane not two

any ideas about a rubber damper on the rear diff / UJ joint ?
 
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