p38 timing chain

Hi guys I've got a 4.0 p38 and just wondering if there is supposed to be any slack in the timing chain? Mine seems to be like a cock in a sock, whicxh would explain why I've had rough running problems and not running properly for the past 12 months I've owned it. Plus it was coming up cam shaft sensor every time I had it scanned. Should the chain be tight on both pulleys? Mine seems to have about an inch/inch and a half slack. Also how does the keyway come out of the crank? Or can you take the crank pulley out without taking the pulley off?

I would say its time for a change, a duplex chain should do the trick, yes the pulley has to come off, should slide over keyway.

Fit new sprockets at the same time as a new chain, crank pulley is obvoiusly off as you must have removed the front cover to see the wear in the chain. The sprockets should also be replaced with the chain..they are not that expensive. Check RAVE for the sprocket alignment/valve timing info.
Don't forget to get new gaskets for the front cover/water pump...may as well change the crank pulley oil seal in the front cover whilst you have it stripped

Thanks guys, I'm glad that it finally looks like there's light at the end of the tunnel and I may actually be able to get the bloody thing on the road after 12 months of ownership. Yeah I've looked at the rice of the chain with the sprockets and on ebay they were £85, a work collegue said someone in the Midlands sells them for £20? Can you by the crank seal separately? Also the cam pulley had polishing marks on the teeth, not grooved just polished, thinking about it now it must be where the chain was flapping on it. I managed to get the chain and cam pulley off without the crank sprocket, so I gues that indicates what wear the chain has. Also theres metal swarf in the bottom of the sump I'm taking this as the chain breaking down as the sensor was all silvery oil when I took it out. Left the sump balancing on the diff at the moment as it looks like you have to drop the steering arms off to get it out? Just hope this solves the problems I've been having.

yes you can buy the seal seperately

Famous Four - New Parts for Range Rover P38A (Second Generation) 1995-2002 Models - Engine - Rover V8 4.0 litre Petrol

£2.50

The sump will come out without dropping the arm..jack the body up a bit. The sump needs to be thoroughly cleaned, if it's the GEMS engine, the sump has to be sealed with RTV (Silicone type) sealant as there is no gasket fitted and in order for this to give a 100% seal, the flange and the block need to be grease free.
When the sump is off, remove the strainer and give that a good wash out.

Ive got one side jacked up already, think you're right Im going to take the lot off and clean everything up before it goes back together. Looks like it's the gems engine as there is all white/cream sealer round the sump. Famous Four was one website I was looking at, about £13 each for the sprockets and £7 for the chain.

re gems engine you can tell if it is by the vin number

not sure how exactly it works do a search on here

GEMS has a "Box" on the top of the inlet manifold with "4.0" or "4.6" cast into it.
THOR inlet manifold looks like a bunch of sausages with no box.

Mines a 42d engine with the 4.0 box on the inlet

Hiya this applies if it is a 4.6 not sure if it works for 4.0 (eightinavee put me right on it)

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/coil-packs-magnecor-leads-85384.html#post893357

If the letter before the A in the Vin is M,T,V or W its a Gems,if its X,Y,1 or 2 then its Bosch.