P38 test drive.. what to look out for ?

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chopper007

Active Member
Posts
251
Location
near huddersfield
hi all P38 newbie.. going to look at a 137k P38 on monday(1995), it's a v8 4.6 with LPG.. had a new / recon engine 30k ago..
air sus replaced all round last year..

so wondering what i need to check.. what i should look out for...
what to listen / feel for on the test drive. ive only ever had a Disco before, so this is a new departure for me... more info the better...

thanks in advance
 
  • Check everything electrical
  • Check it goes into low range
  • No mayo/water in filler cap
  • Water level.
  • Rust below tailgate flap
  • Check if drivers side carpet next to transmission tunnel isn't wet.
  • No book symbol on HEVAC
  • Air suspension raises/lowers and check if its sat on the bump stops when you arrive.


There's probably a lot that I've missed but a search on this forum should help you out with more. Most of the stuff can be fixed pretty easily by yourself anyway so I personally wouldn't be put off by most of that.



Here's another guide on what to look for by someone else
 
Golden Rule - Never buy a Range Rover with faults no matter what the seller says.....unless you are fully aware of the costs involved in repairing it.

A Range Rover with a fault can empty a bnk balance rapidly if you can't DIY your repairs!
 
I moved from a V8 Disco 2 to a 1998 V8 P38...what did I do? When they go wrong, they go wrong in the most spectacular of ways.....I am learning the hard way!
So things to look out for....I'll base them on the problems I have discovered from back to front.
Rear tailgate: make sure that it locks/unlocks off the fob and operates correctly. push button on the boot to open and open window. This is held open with two gas struts, check them both for signs of wear and play, for example when you've opened the glass and let go, does it then start to shut again, if so, 10 quid or so from the bay of flea for replacement ones, easy fit pull off push on! Check the rear wash wipe, the nozzle on the washer can accumulate crud over the years and prevent it from spraying fluid, it is also possible that the line is blocked with crystalline washer fluid and crud, requiring it to be blown out with hp steam or air, worse case scenario is that non-return valve is stuck.
Open the lower tailgate and check the rubber check straps for signs of perishing splitting, again, a cheap replacement from the bay of flea, lift the tailgate up and down a few times and listen for any sloshing, if you hear it there is water inside the tailgate and this can play havoc with the electrics for the rear lights. Check the spare wheel well by lifting the access panel on the boot floor....any sign of moisture in there? Or, even worse, as in my case did you have a built in swimming pool?
With the suspension, all corners should rise together in very short order, try each of the settings in turn with all doors closed. Do all doors lock/unlock from the fob? There may be an expensive fix coming if the front doors do not. Do the interior lights work as expected? If they don't come on, this may be connected to the front door locking issue, and could be a BECM fault as well as R/F and door locks (as I am just finding out). Check the BECM under the driver's seat, is there any sign of botched DIY, bits of crimped wire on the carpet etc? Is the chap selling able to confirm that it is the original BECM, and are all keys available. Look at the HEVAC unit if it displays a book and an exclamation mark, again, you could be in for a big bill, could possibly be the blend motors have packed up, these are horribly difficult to replace. Under the bonnet check the fusebox, situated on the offside behind the battery, is there a smell of burning or burnt electrical wiring? No matter how slight, if that is detected you will need to replace the fuse box as most likely relay LR6 I think will have burned out...this may also be linked to the book symbol on the HEVAC and given the complex relationship between the fusebox and the BECM, could also explain issues with door locking and interior lights.
What I'm trying to say, is the P38 is in terms of comfort far better than a Disco, most people will say the EAS is problematic, and it is if not looked after, but then it is a relatively easy system to work on and there is plenty on the internet thingy (particularly rangerover.net) on how to do things. Electrics are a nightmare there are so many variables such as moisture dirt poor connections dodgy earth etc etc etc.....I'm in the middle of sorting mine out, but I know once done, it will be a superb motor....as with all things, unless you are looking to do it up, buy the best you can afford, full and extensive service history a must and as many receipts for work done as possible.....even then, you will have problems, but as I say, the enigma that is the P38 will very quickly worm it's way into your heart.....GOOD LUCK!
 
HI Guys, really appreciate your time in replying.... setting off tomorrow lunch to go see the car in Peterbrough so will im sure let you know how i get on.. and what faults i find on my return..

anything i need to watch out for with the LPG system ?
 
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