P38 rear Brakes

Its looking like I need rear discs and callipers, is it much of a job? Are the callipers on Banjo bolts? will I need new calliper mounting bolts as the Disco ones i did had corroded away?

winchman said:

Its looking like I need rear discs and callipers, is it much of a job? Are the callipers on Banjo bolts? will I need new calliper mounting bolts as the Disco ones i did had corroded away?

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Best get new bolts before you start, not a big job,@Henry_b has just done his , he'll be along soon to advise.

Look at new sliders as well, and if your rear brake pipes from front to over the rear cross member have not changed it would be a good time to do it before they let you down, they corrode badly at the back

The rear caliper carrier is held on with 2x 13mm Bi-Hex"12 point" bolts and the caliper is bolted on with a 12mm bolt x2.

Brake line is of course secured with a banjo bolt with 2 copper washers one wither side of the banjo "obvs"

Removal and refitment is easy I'd recommend you get a new banjo bolt and washers just to eliminate any possibility of leakage..

I replaced my rear calipers after the pads wore to such a degree that they fell out. When I pulled the caliper off the piston was close to getting freedom too!!

As for the bleeding of the rear calipers I just gravity bled them, which some will say is the wrong way to do it, but I don't argue with results
When it came time to swap the brake line between the old and new, I removed the bleed nipple from the new caliper to allow maximum flow and then quickly swapped the line over, making sure the brake fluid was topped up I just let the fluid run in/out of the caliper until the fluid ran out without any bubbles, bleed nipple back in and bobs ya auntie..

Henry_b said:

The rear caliper carrier is held on with 2x 13mm Bi-Hex"12 point" bolts and the caliper is bolted on with a 12mm bolt x2.

Brake line is of course secured with a banjo bolt with 2 copper washers one wither side of the banjo "obvs"

Removal and refitment is easy I'd recommend you get a new banjo bolt and washers just to eliminate any possibility of leakage..

I replaced my rear calipers after the pads wore to such a degree that they fell out. When I pulled the caliper off the piston was close to getting freedom too!!

As for the bleeding of the rear calipers I just gravity bled them, which some will say is the wrong way to do it, but I don't argue with results
When it came time to swap the brake line between the old and new, I removed the bleed nipple from the new caliper to allow maximum flow and then quickly swapped the line over, making sure the brake fluid was topped up I just let the fluid run in/out of the caliper until the fluid ran out without any bubbles, bleed nipple back in and bobs ya auntie..

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Many years ago when I did mine I clamped both flexi's,when it was all back together I bled the caliper furthest from the master cylinder first by fitting a tube to the nipple,calm down @Mark Piercy ,got the Boss to put her foot on the brake pedal and momentarily turn the ignition on.it was a long tube so you can see when all the air is pushed out. Repeat for the off side.

Budget for new sliders and caliper bracket mounting bolts. It’s not a bad job to do. If you’ve got a nanocom you can cheat with the bleeding.

tomcat59alan said:

Many years ago when I did mine I clamped both flexi's,when it was all back together I bled the caliper furthest from the master cylinder first by fitting a tube to the nipple,calm down @Mark Piercy ,got the Boss to put her foot on the brake pedal and momentarily turn the ignition on.it was a long tube so you can see when all the air is pushed out. Repeat for the off side.

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Awe go on if his blood pressure is going to go up at least let him have pipes on nipples to dream about

Thanks for your reply I will get the bits on order