P38 or D2....Can't decide! please help!

Sorry for the delay. I have had no problems with any of the petrols, but only had 1 manual. My diesel is an auto and tows really well

great thanks

hayden2222 said:

but nothing too major? engine still strong?

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Very strong

great stuff! I think I may gamble!

I am a V8 man and when I had a P38 DSE I was pleasently surprised....

The accelerator pedal has a long travel for better off road control so it seems you have to go along way before anything happens, but that is just the nature of the diesel.

Give it a good poke and she lift her skirt and scamper away quite happily.

Thanks, still think I'll go for a v8. derv doesn't attract me in the slightest really!

Dont buy either, get a late diesel p38, defo not a 4.6 petrol p38
If you patrol the internet get a low mileage diesel p38 dse as leather cleans easy and you probably get better sound system etc
Cruise with a caravan all day no prob

Expect lots of service history and work as they are 16 years old plus. All the check lists are here but expect ??

thanks, but again i don't like the idea of a tiny highly strung diesel bm engine in a huge car....

hayden2222 said:

thanks, but again i don't like the idea of a tiny highly strung diesel bm engine in a huge car....

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Even one that is at the very least twice as reliable as the V8. .

the engine may be...but what about the gearbox?

hayden2222 said:

the engine may be...but what about the gearbox?

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The ZF4HP22 on the Diesel P38 is a tad under-rated for the job, but as long as you don't hoon about, tow heavy things or add a performance chip to the engine ECU, it'll be OK.

Overall P38 is better car than D2, way simplier and mechanically, no rust and if it's diesel - cheap engine to replace if anything happens. And way more comfortable. Electronics are not a problem if it wasn't flooded or involved in accident. If diesel - get the one without EGR and MAF, just before facelift, far less problematic engine mangament.
Most of bad opinions of P38 are from people who never had one.

Thanks, well I will be towing, that's why a derv gearbox worries me..... I assume if you remove the MAF you put in a MAP sensor? or does the derv already have both?

I do love a v8, that;s the only other thing! Even if it is mainly for the wife to drive, especially on LPG as would probably match if not better the diesel. Only worry really is head gaskets and lines on the v8...but are those really that common, especially if the car has gone 130k.....surely it would have happened by now? I guess it happens when overheating....so would just have to spruce up the coolant system every year or something...

The problem with RV8's is the production quality is so suspect it's pot luck whether you get a good / bad block. Mine never overheated & i replaced the entire cooling system when i bought mine as a precaution - still dropped a liner 40k miles later (in a later LCF engine block with steps at the bottom to 'stop' this happening). Anyway, i'd still have a V8 over a diesel, as after all my troubles with mine I still have a will to live.

I would go for the P38. The D2 TD5 didn't start production until late 1998. A 1997 is a TDi Disco 1.

The main problem that effects all disco's is rust. P38's don't suffer this so all you have to worry about is the mechanical side of things.
The Disco's you'll be worried sick each time the MOT come round & everytime it will require welding.

You'd need to get a model year 2000 plus on the Discovery 2, yet these feckers still rust before your very eye's.

thanks, which have LCF blocks? any way to tell or are all thor 4.6's lcf?

Sorry. yea it is a D1.

Yea, I think P38 it is! Just got to keep my fingers crossed I don;t get a bad one! Not bothered about the interior issues as can sort everything really....just don;t want to be rebuilding the engine after a few k miles....how much do you rec it would cost to get top hat liners in and everything machined that needs it....I assume new liners would need new pistons?

Buy a P38 where the engine has been done already. Everything else is quite easy as long as you have the right knowledge helping you.

Or go for the diesel & get it chipped which would be my choice.

hayden2222 said:

thanks, which have LCF blocks? any way to tell or are all thor 4.6's lcf?

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LCF blocks were used on latter years 2000 on but being LR this is not guaranteed, they were also exclusively used for LR exchange engines to combat slipped liner issues but they still failed as the liners were not pressed in fully during assembly. The code is embossed on the side of the block just above the crank cross bolts, will be either LCF or WYF (older). Anyway, i wouldn't get too hung up about it. As i said, luck of the drawer. If your set on a V8 just make sure you give it a good test drive, check for leaks, check the history to see whats been done etc etc.

Thanks for all your help.

Also just found out the p38 has ''EAS pumps internal thermal switch failed so it has a external one fitted. Works perfectly well.''

what does this mean!?