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langley

New Member
Posts
372
Location
Bristol UK
Hi everyone, ive just got my first Range rover, a 2000 2.5 DSE with most of the DHSE toys.

Having investigated under the bonnet, i believe ive found a hot stat box connected to the ECU (which doesnt seem to be acually doing anything as you have to wind the car over for a while...). ive read alot of the post on this, but, is there a way of testing the box to establish if it is working or not?

Secondly, i found a PSI Performance "link box" plumbed into the car, im new to diesel tuning, but having spent some considerable time on here ive established its the old type that has a hose plumbed in as well as cabling. Am i right in thinking that this is the wrong type for a 2000 spec car? (its on a X plate).

Finally, an thanks if youve stayed with me here, im looking to fit a stainless exhaust sysem. Having researched it, ive come down to either the Double S system or a Janspeed system. But, im confused as ultimately the part numbers for the diesel and petrol are the same.. Is this correct, or am i buying snake oil.

Thanks for your help and hope to see some of you on road

Cheers

sam
 
Is it hot or cold that you have to wind it over, does the glow plug light come on when it's hot?

That sounds like the wrong type of box for the EGR engine. If the car is auto, any sort of power boost will end up eating the gearbox. Best removed.

The front part of the exhaust petrol to diesel is obviously different, 2 down pipes on a V8, don't know about the rear section but the rear silencers may well be the same.
:welcome2:
 
Last edited:
langley said:
Hi everyone, ive just got my first Range rover, a 2000 2.5 DSE with most of the DHSE toys.

Having investigated under the bonnet, i believe ive found a hot stat box connected to the ECU (which doesnt seem to be acually doing anything as you have to wind the car over for a while...). ive read alot of the post on this, but, is there a way of testing the box to establish if it is working or not?

Secondly, i found a PSI Performance "link box" plumbed into the car, im new to diesel tuning, but having spent some considerable time on here ive established its the old type that has a hose plumbed in as well as cabling. Am i right in thinking that this is the wrong type for a 2000 spec car? (its on a X plate).

Finally, an thanks if youve stayed with me here, im looking to fit a stainless exhaust sysem. Having researched it, ive come down to either the Double S system or a Janspeed system. But, im confused as ultimately the part numbers for the diesel and petrol are the same.. Is this correct, or am i buying snake oil.

Thanks for your help and hope to see some of you on road

Cheers

sam
Click to expand...


Best way to test the hot start fix is to take it off and see if it makes a difference? If it is struggling to start hot. The unamed online auction site has numerous kits available but be wary of cheaper ones. Its worth doing the forum search again and google to have a look at this issue to rectify the actual cause rather than taking the easy option of fooling the ECU. I dont know why but mine doesnt have a hot box and its never struggled hot or cold so i assume there is an underlying problem there some where.

The PSI box you have is the older type and again take it off to see if there's any noticeable difference. Mine has a PSI also but just the cabled version. As data said though if its an auto it will not be long for this world with increased outputs. Mine is a manual and recently went on the dyno and the figures with the PSI box and a few other mods revealed surprisingly high levels of torque at the wheels (when the clutch stopped slipping and engaged!) so imagine what it will do to the auto box.

As for the Stainless system, while the previous owner purchased the one on my current vehicle, I have to say for price and quality you can't beat powerflow (not affiliated). I've used them to build cat back systems on my last three vehicles and all the stainless has a lifetime guarantee. Because it's all built and fabricated "while-u-wait" it's very easy. Plus you can chose your tailpipe option from outrageous to completely OEM spec. They claim performance increases but really depends on what system you go for. Totally custom so worth a go. Same price if not cheaper than the big brands.

More pics on my profile but as most know I like to get pics of mine in wherever I can :D
 

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aerofabrique said:
Best way to test the hot start fix is to take it off and see if it makes a difference? If it is struggling to start hot. The unamed online auction site has numerous kits available but be wary of cheaper ones. Its worth doing the forum search again and google to have a look at this issue to rectify the actual cause rather than taking the easy option of fooling the ECU. I dont know why but mine doesnt have a hot box and its never struggled hot or cold so i assume there is an underlying problem there some where.

The PSI box you have is the older type and again take it off to see if there's any noticeable difference. Mine has a PSI also but just the cabled version. As data said though if its an auto it will not be long for this world with increased outputs. Mine is a manual and recently went on the dyno and the figures with the PSI box and a few other mods revealed surprisingly high levels of torque at the wheels (when the clutch stopped slipping and engaged!) so imagine what it will do to the auto box.

As for the Stainless system, while the previous owner purchased the one on my current vehicle, I have to say for price and quality you can't beat powerflow (not affiliated). I've used them to build cat back systems on my last three vehicles and all the stainless has a lifetime guarantee. Because it's all built and fabricated "while-u-wait" it's very easy. Plus you can chose your tailpipe option from outrageous to completely OEM spec. They claim performance increases but really depends on what system you go for. Totally custom so worth a go. Same price if not cheaper than the big brands.

More pics on my profile but as most know I like to get pics of mine in wherever I can :D
Click to expand...

No need to take the hot start mod off to see if it is working, if the glow plug light comes on when the engine is hot the hot start is working.:)
 
Datatek said:
But if the glowplugs are not working it would be a cold start problem which is why I posed the question "hot or cold" problem.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's why i deleted the post Keith. Head on backwards today. Got me holiday head on, flying tonight to climates more appropriate. Give me a wave about 00.30.
 
Hi everyone,

Firstly, thanks for all the replies and for being welcoming : )

With regard to the starting issue, the glow plug light comes on when the engines cold. When hot, it doesnt and you crank for maybe 15 - 20 seconds before she "fires". Soooo im guessing the box is not working. The box fitted looks the same as all the "auction or company ones", albeit i havent opened it yet, it is hardwired into the ECU as per most of the instruction threads online.

thanks for the information i shall be removing the PSI box..

now just got to find out whats making an odd noise on the front end and why the front diff has alot of oil on it. Maybe stupid, but after forum review and the wonder of a video tube online site, the noise sounds like that of a buggered diff or diff parts....

Still smiling though, cant believe ive waited this long to get one.

Thanks all,

P.S - if there are any owners around the bristol area that could offer technical help i have a faul on the "hevac" screen and i dont currently have a diagnosis box.
 
Front diff is right under the oil cooler and oil pipes. The pipes do tend to leak on the fixings. However, being a rr, its not as simple as replacing the pipes. Likelyhood is the fixings are corroded onto the oil cooler so you'll need one of them to. If its black oil on the diff most likely engine oil. Put your hand under all four fixings on the oil pipe and see if your hand comes out wet and black.

If the oil from the diff smells like diesel then you probably have leaking spill pipes which are cheap and easy to replace. Or more expensively but easy enough leaky injectors.

Clean it up underneath so you can do a priper diagnosis
 
langley said:
Hi everyone,

Firstly, thanks for all the replies and for being welcoming : )

With regard to the starting issue, the glow plug light comes on when the engines cold. When hot, it doesnt and you crank for maybe 15 - 20 seconds before she "fires". Soooo im guessing the box is not working. The box fitted looks the same as all the "auction or company ones", albeit i havent opened it yet, it is hardwired into the ECU as per most of the instruction threads online.

thanks for the information i shall be removing the PSI box..

now just got to find out whats making an odd noise on the front end and why the front diff has alot of oil on it. Maybe stupid, but after forum review and the wonder of a video tube online site, the noise sounds like that of a buggered diff or diff parts....

Still smiling though, cant believe ive waited this long to get one.

Thanks all,

P.S - if there are any owners around the bristol area that could offer technical help i have a faul on the "hevac" screen and i dont currently have a diagnosis box.
Click to expand...


The top of the oil filter leaks on mine which covers the diff, but also the diff flange bolts have a habit of coming loose and letting the oil out of the diff, if it is out of oil it will be noisy.
 
langley said:
Hi everyone, ive just got my first Range rover, a 2000 2.5 DSE with most of the DHSE toys.

Having investigated under the bonnet, i believe ive found a hot stat box connected to the ECU (which doesnt seem to be acually doing anything as you have to wind the car over for a while...). ive read alot of the post on this, but, is there a way of testing the box to establish if it is working or not?

Secondly, i found a PSI Performance "link box" plumbed into the car, im new to diesel tuning, but having spent some considerable time on here ive established its the old type that has a hose plumbed in as well as cabling. Am i right in thinking that this is the wrong type for a 2000 spec car? (its on a X plate).

Finally, an thanks if youve stayed with me here, im looking to fit a stainless exhaust sysem. Having researched it, ive come down to either the Double S system or a Janspeed system. But, im confused as ultimately the part numbers for the diesel and petrol are the same.. Is this correct, or am i buying snake oil.

Thanks for your help and hope to see some of you on road

Cheers

sam
Click to expand...

I have no idea why but somehow I'd got it into my head that the hot-start was only an issue on earlier (pre-98) models? Think it was a theory by Wammers or Saint or possibly Datatek about the fusebox layout and rating changing on the later models?
 
Grrrrrr said:
I have no idea why but somehow I'd got it into my head that the hot-start was only an issue on earlier (pre-98) models? Think it was a theory by Wammers or Saint or possibly Datatek about the fusebox layout and rating changing on the later models?
Click to expand...
Fuse Rating changed on the later models....from 10A to 20A (IIRC)

The hot start issue is due to stretch in the FIP timing chain after 20,000km (or is it miles - check RAVE) and can happen to all the M51 engines - Beemers included.

The true hot start issue resolution is to retime the pump using a DTi and a crank locking pin....
 
Saint.V8 said:
Fuse Rating changed on the later models....from 10A to 20A (IIRC)

The hot start issue is due to stretch in the FIP timing chain after 20,000km (or is it miles - check RAVE) and can happen to all the M51 engines - Beemers included.

The true hot start issue resolution is to retime the pump using a DTi and a crank locking pin....
Click to expand...

You should write that into LRO. In the agony aunt section this month, someone questioned the hot start issue on p38 diesel.

The expert was encouraging people to buy the cheapy boxes on the online auction site and I was quite annoyed as they didnt seem to explain what the underlying cause was but just to 'mask' it using some box of tricks from hong kong!
 
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its a 2,5 diesel...why bother putting a stainless/performance type exhaust on it :p waste of money really


if the hevac screen is shoping a book, its probably the air con, is the air con working properly ?

need to get mine done :eek:
 
polsta said:
its a 2,5 diesel...why bother putting a stainless/performance type exhaust on it :p waste of money really


if the hevac screen is showing a book, its probably the air con, is the air con working properly ?

need to get mine done :eek:
Click to expand...

More often the blend motors causing the book to show, on later cars aircon mal function does not seem to produce the book, at least it does not on mine.:)
 
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