P38 manual inflation advice

freelandermad · Mar 29, 2015

ive ordered a obdll plug & db9 to make a cable & have software ready to go once i receive the db9 to unlock the EAS.

Anyways in meantime....fitted a manual inflation kit.... 4 t's to each valve in compressor block and to each airbag, 4 elbows to the valves to inflate & unplugged eas relay under passenger seat....nice coloured nylon pipe (looks very colourful under bonnet have to saylol) all good so far??

Now..my question is.... setting the RR to 20" at the rear & 18.5/19" at the front....why does the rear passenger airbag continue to inflate when i'm blowing up rear drivers side..... fronts seem to be fine when inflating both corners & only seems to happen to the rears when inflating they corners

Any advice appreciated or pointers

tomcat59alan · Mar 29, 2015

Stop messing about with a system that works perfectly well if maintained. You obviously have a problem with your system so sort it properly. That's my advice.

mgmayo · Mar 29, 2015

I had mine on manual a few times while solving problems in system. I chose to connect rear bags with a tee piece and then similar for the fronts. When done in pairs you get balancing across the axle. This is done away from the valve block which if it has sealing problems maybe the cause of the symptoms you have.

freelandermad · Mar 29, 2015

tomcat59alan said:
Stop messing about with a system that works perfectly well if maintained. You obviously have a problem with your system so sort it properly. That's my advice.

I jump started it...and in the meantime while awaiting to have it fixed (all reasons in my post above).... i am looking for advice...is that ok with you?
I'm very capable (24 years experience) of fixing anything but like many other RR owners i have opted to try the manual inflation add on....

Many thanks

freelandermad · Mar 29, 2015

mgmayo said:
I had mine on manual a few times while solving problems in system. I chose to connect rear bags with a tee piece and then similar for the fronts. When done in pairs you get balancing across the axle. This is done away from the valve block which if it has sealing problems maybe the cause of the symptoms you have.

Thanks for the reply.... yeah i was sorta thinking that it may possibly be something to do with the valve block & one of the seals... i wasnt wanting to go down the 2 piece inflation idea thats why i opted for the 4... but may just give rear axle a try on the single valve inflation see how it goes
So im assuming you joined the 2 rear pipes to one 3 way t piece?

Saint.V8 · Mar 29, 2015

If the airlines are still connected to the valve block, I'd say you have a leak in the valve block.....

I do stand by Alans comments though, the EAS system if well maintained will not give issues!

I'd be looking to reseal the block.

freelandermad · Mar 29, 2015

Saint.V8 said:
If the airlines are still connected to the valve block, I'd say you have a leak in the valve block.....

I do stand by Alans comments though, the EAS system if well maintained will not give issues!

I'd be looking to reseal the block.

Yeah thats the plan saint.... but to be honest there wasnt any problems with the suspension til i had to jump it... was all sitting nicely until then, no sagging over night etc

tomcat59alan · Mar 30, 2015

freelandermad said:
Yeah thats the plan saint.... but to be honest there wasnt any problems with the suspension til i had to jump it... was all sitting nicely until then, no sagging over night etc

I wasn't being funny mate, I have had my 38 for over 9 years and never needed to mess about with manual inflation devices. The more joints in the system the more chances of places to leak. Does sound like you need a valve block reseal, not a huge job, whip the exhaust filter off and see if you have white residue inside it. The contents of the air dryer tends to break up and get blown into the v/block. Give the block a good clean, some put it in the dish washer, I used an ultra sound bath. The jump start my just be a coincident. Good luck.

Datatek · Mar 30, 2015

mgmayo said:
I had mine on manual a few times while solving problems in system. I chose to connect rear bags with a tee piece and then similar for the fronts. When done in pairs you get balancing across the axle. This is done away from the valve block which if it has sealing problems maybe the cause of the symptoms you have.

All balancing, inflation & height regulation is done through the valve block.

Datatek · Mar 30, 2015

freelandermad said:
Yeah thats the plan saint.... but to be honest there wasnt any problems with the suspension til i had to jump it... was all sitting nicely until then, no sagging over night etc

If you have jump started it without following the procedure in the manual, it's possible something has been damaged.
If you want to use manual inflation, pull the pipes from the valve block and connect the valves to the ends. Fitting T's is pointless as it relies on the valve block being in good order.

mgmayo · Mar 30, 2015

freelandermad said:
Thanks for the reply.... yeah i was sorta thinking that it may possibly be something to do with the valve block & one of the seals... i wasnt wanting to go down the 2 piece inflation idea thats why i opted for the 4... but may just give rear axle a try on the single valve inflation see how it goes
So im assuming you joined the 2 rear pipes to one 3 way t piece?

That's right 3 way tee. I made the inflation stem from a tubeless tyre inflation stem. When you pare away the rubber from it, it's a 6mm brass shank which just fits the push in tee.

Grrrrrr · Mar 30, 2015

When you inflate them put a bit in each and keep moving around. As it rises the weight transfers around and squashes them flat. You need to get to about 50psi before it starts to go up. If you're above 80psi then something has gone wrong.

wammers · Mar 30, 2015

Grrrrrr said:
When you inflate them put a bit in each and keep moving around. As it rises the weight transfers around and squashes them flat. You need to get to about 50psi before it starts to go up. If you're above 80psi then something has gone wrong.

Unless the boot space is full of breeze blocks. Just fix the bloody EAS.

Grrrrrr · Mar 30, 2015

wammers said:
Unless the boot space is full of breeze blocks. Just fix the bloody EAS.

Couldn't agree more, especially having seen how much the ECU is constantly adjusting each bag on a drive. But as an emergency measure to keep him mobile until he fixes it ...

Incidentally, the crappy heap kit that came with mine was leaking more than the bl**dy bags!

freelandermad · Mar 31, 2015

mgmayo said:
That's right 3 way tee. I made the inflation stem from a tubeless tyre inflation stem. When you pare away the rubber from it, it's a 6mm brass shank which just fits the push in tee.

Yup thats what i'm using in meantime...with a wee bit ptfe tape around the shank itself

freelandermad · Mar 31, 2015

Grrrrrr said:
When you inflate them put a bit in each and keep moving around. As it rises the weight transfers around and squashes them flat. You need to get to about 50psi before it starts to go up. If you're above 80psi then something has gone wrong.

wammers said:
Unless the boot space is full of breeze blocks. Just fix the bloody EAS.

Grrrrrr said:
Couldn't agree more, especially having seen how much the ECU is constantly adjusting each bag on a drive. But as an emergency measure to keep him mobile until he fixes it ...

Incidentally, the crappy heap kit that came with mine was leaking more than the bl**dy bags!

Well i've went down the 2 valve inflation method in meantime....(know wammers will like ma post lol)

Got it sitting at around 20" all round from middle of wheel to arch at approx 65psi all round and 44psi in each tyre

*Hopefully* the db9 gender changer will arrive tomorrow (bought wrong fitment hence the F2F gender changer & USB adapter) so i can unlock the eas, already made the obd cable up & balls it up altogether lol (joking)

wammers...any tips on what to do with the eas unlock??....better to deflate it all back down to bumpstops or anything you suggest please would be appreciated?
Or anyone else got experience of best thing to do?

Attached piccy of how it looked prior to day i jump started it

tomcat59alan · Mar 31, 2015

freelandermad said:
Well i've went down the 2 valve inflation method in meantime....(know wammers will like ma post lol)

Got it sitting at around 20" all round from middle of wheel to arch at approx 65psi all round and 44psi in each tyre

*Hopefully* the db9 gender changer will arrive tomorrow (bought wrong fitment hence the F2F gender changer & USB adapter) so i can unlock the eas, already made the obd cable up & balls it up altogether lol (joking)

wammers...any tips on what to do with the eas unlock??....better to deflate it all back down to bumpstops or anything you suggest please would be appreciated?
Or anyone else got experience of best thing to do?

Attached piccy of how it looked prior to day i jump started it

Shouldn't your tyre pressures be 28 front, 38 rear?

brianp38dse · Mar 31, 2015

+ 1 on the tyre pressures,

Littelwill · Mar 31, 2015

Those pressures are way out!

Datatek · Mar 31, 2015

freelandermad said:
Well i've went down the 2 valve inflation method in meantime....(know wammers will like ma post lol)

Got it sitting at around 20" all round from middle of wheel to arch at approx 65psi all round and 44psi in each tyre

*Hopefully* the db9 gender changer will arrive tomorrow (bought wrong fitment hence the F2F gender changer & USB adapter) so i can unlock the eas, already made the obd cable up & balls it up altogether lol (joking)

wammers...any tips on what to do with the eas unlock??....better to deflate it all back down to bumpstops or anything you suggest please would be appreciated?
Or anyone else got experience of best thing to do?

Attached piccy of how it looked prior to day i jump started it

Start off by reading the instructions for the EAS software, then get the green "Good Idle". Once you have that, read the faults and report back.
Your tyre pressure are possibly dangerous.

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