P38 heater matrix

Cheer's mate. It's always good to ask somebody who's been there and done that rather than struggling id say. Having come from a l322 to now this maybe I've don't the wrong thing!as much as i loved it even with its problems I was scared of damaging it off road

P38 much simpler from an L322 from what I've seen of @Saint.V8 's posts!

just read up on the head gasket repair page on paul38 doesn't actually seem too bad. Maybe I might build the courage do some homework and have a go myself. Just abit curious on how to check that mating surfaces aren't warped?

lukecrf said:

just read up on the head gasket repair page on paul38 doesn't actually seem too bad. Maybe I might build the courage do some homework and have a go myself. Just abit curious on how to check that mating surfaces aren't warped?

Click to expand...

The simplest way is a metre long metal ruler from tool station and a torch if you Google you will find photos of how its done but to be sure get the heads skimmed if you suspect there warped in any way.......its actually a simple job just give it a go if you were close I'd help have you checked to see if any one is near that mite ?

different approach,if your really comfortable and know of a tidy second hand parts supplier ,enquire about a warranty dont buy without one,just a thought as i found it cheaper to buy a complete 2.5 diesel engine with a 6 months warranty which worked out cheaper and faster to do just a thought

Grrrrrr said:

P38 much simpler from an L322 from what I've seen of @Saint.V8 's posts!

Click to expand...

What you saying.....??.....

if you have the heads skimmed regardless and pressure checked, for me its a guarantee they're in good fettle!

Saint.V8 said:

What you saying.....??.....

Click to expand...

stop putting your contact lenses on the dash top!! Those screen vents will eat everything..ive known very small people sleeping under the screen to disappear without sign down into the cavern we call the heater system!!!!

just having a second think on the rangie. Been looking at having the engine rebuilt / recon. Seen this on eBay and wondering what people think?

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER...NGINE-SUPPLY-AND-FIT-/222424532175?nav=SEARCH

reading horror stories about engine blocks isn't doing me any favours either! Haha.

lukecrf said:

just having a second think on the rangie. Been looking at having the engine rebuilt / recon. Seen this on eBay and wondering what people think?

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER...NGINE-SUPPLY-AND-FIT-/222424532175?nav=SEARCH

reading horror stories about engine blocks isn't doing me any favours either! Haha.

Click to expand...

Dunno what they drink up in Dudley but the photos aint a Range Rover engine and infact it ain't even a bleeding V8.....If they have no photos of one of the V8's they have worked on, I'd be tempted to think they are a tad suspect!

They could be genuine, but if you are selling a product or service, then a decent photo is a must....everyone pretty much has access to a decent digital camera nowadays so there are no excuses really!

call them and ask?
you'll get an idea from the way they talk about the engines!
have some questions ready..maybe?

lukecrf said:

ill have a go at what I can but I think a head gasket is best being done properly and pay the labour

Click to expand...

Don't despair mate you're at the start of a learning curve.

I've done hundreds of head gaskets in my time, they are mostly a simple affair. Haven't done a V8...YET But I'm sure I'll get a chance

I've been really lucky in that A) my engine is well under 30k miles and B) both times it overheated it suffered no ill's.

1st time was when I bought it. Drove about 3 miles to the local garage with the needle in the red, but luckily it only needed 2 litres of coolant to top it up. The 2nd time was when the top hose blew clean apart and clouds of steam made it look like a creeping fog bank That evening it was something like -2 celcius so I limped home.

Anyhoo, the best thing to do is read up on it, watch video's of how it's done and do the RAVE thing. Make sure you photograph each phase as you go so you can refer back to the pictures if you get stuck. Also, get masking tape and a black felt tip pen, write down where each plug/socket goes so you can match them up again after, something like crank pos sensor and such like. Makes it real easy to put it back together. Same with the spark plugs, wrap a bit of masking tape round each one so they are marked 2,4,6,8 and 1,3,5,7 etc.

But most important of all, make sure there is a nice other half to make tea

Great reply Doo, I just need to get on with it and stop the talking I think. Until I strip it down ill never know what's wrong with it. Working away alot isn't helping me with hardly getting the chance to look at it. I've got a couple of weeks off over Easter so hoping I can get as much of it sorted as possible. Another thing haha yeah there's more.... It won't go over into low range, I've had a look about and i seem to keep finding check the sollinoid for operation? Gear stick won't physically push over on the H whilst in neutral. Again hopefully get this sorted when im off. Thanks for the replys everyone

lukecrf said:

just read up on the head gasket repair page on paul38 doesn't actually seem too bad. Maybe I might build the courage do some homework and have a go myself. Just abit curious on how to check that mating surfaces aren't warped?

Click to expand...

I did my head gaskets this time last year. First time I've ever had an engine that far apart! It's pretty easy if you're methodical.

If you don't want to skim the heads (as a matter of course), you can borrow my machined straight edge. I bought it to do this job, have used it once (mine were dead flat) and it's been safely wrapped in it's wax paper ever since. You just lay it on top, and try to slide a feeler gauge between the straight edge and the heads. There is a tolerance in RAVE to stick to. Let me know if you want it and I'll post it up. Just don't drop it!

I'm starting the Audi heater matrix swap on mine tomorrow, I'll let you know how it goes....

Thanks for the generous offer mrgorsky. I may just take you up on that one! Be good to hear how your getting on with the Audi heater matrix? Cheers

Well it's in! I haven't got the dash al back together yet, but all being well that should happen tomorrow. Spent a good deal of time cleaning all the old knackered foam off the air box, and trying to get the new coolant pipes through the firewall using the original grommet.

All seems to be in place, I hope I can remember how it all goes back together tomorrow!!!!

Top tip for putting large pipes through the bulkhead grommet.

1) If the grommet falls out wrap a strand of steel wire round the recess of the grommet, get someone inside the car to offer it up to the bulkhead and press with their fingers and then peel the wire out as if you were fitting a windscreen.

2) Plenty of foamy soap on the pipes as you put them through the grommet so they slide easily. They should be a damn tight fit to stop any gases from the engine bay sneaking back through to the cab, should anything like an exhaust gasket fail.

tomcat59alan said:

Don't despair mate you're at the start of a learning curve.

Click to expand...

Good to see you back, Tomcat.

lukecrf,

i'm in the middle of doing the head gaskets on my 4.6 thor..

i did my heads on my 3.9 a shortwhile back and BikeTeacher Dave kindly came to visit on thursday to give me a hand pulling the heads..

the main bulk of time is getting everything stripped out ready to lift the heads mine is LPG took me a bit longer. there are a couple of ballaches.. 1. the coil pack mounting.. mine was trivky as it had lpg pipework going over just to make it awkward to get to and 2. the sodding heatshields.. everything else.. straight forward and follow rave.

if you want a tip. i would start by taking the three flange bolts off the bottom of the manifold (order new studs and flange bolts) , get a 7mm socket on the heat shield heads and wing those out.. get the crappy bit done first everything else after is a breeze