P38 gearbox fault and engine dies

feyniriel · Friday at 17:44

Took it for a test drive again after changing the aux belt and engine died 4 times. I had previously deleted fault codes and the same ones showed up: engine code saying "fuel flow value out of range" and gearbox fault code "invalid engine rpm data". My husband thought the latter could also indicate a crank sensor issue?
However it seems that the codes too are pointing to the FIP. If I understand it correctly, I have on my hands a diesel runaway engine, except the ECU shuts off the engine to prevent it from receiving too much diesel from the faulty FIP and running away? Last time it shut off the rpm quickly went to 4000.

Datatek · Friday at 19:20

feyniriel said:
Took it for a test drive again after changing the aux belt and engine died 4 times. I had previously deleted fault codes and the same ones showed up: engine code saying "fuel flow value out of range" and gearbox fault code "invalid engine rpm data". My husband thought the latter could also indicate a crank sensor issue?
However it seems that the codes too are pointing to the FIP. If I understand it correctly, I have on my hands a diesel runaway engine, except the ECU shuts off the engine to prevent it from receiving too much diesel from the faulty FIP and running away? Last time it shut off the rpm quickly went to 4000.

Fuel flow out of range seems to be common, I have it on one of mine it mak3es no difference. Crank sensor can be checked with Nanocom. All this speculation is pointless until the FIP timing is sorted, it's a surprise it even runs.

Mark Piercy · Friday at 21:33

Datatek said:
Last mvoement should always be towards the block.

Only in reference to the apparent over advance our mate has listed in his post.

feyniriel · Saturday at 18:44

Today we did the static timing as described by datatek, first tapping the FIP 5mm away from the engine and 1mm back, after driving the engine to 95 degrees this gave a jump to 60% modulation at idle, from the old 4%. Then tapping it again towards the engine 1mm or so resulted in no change and another mm gave 51-53% modulation at idle. After letting the car sit for 10 minutes and driving it warm again, at idle Nanocom showed 53-57%. The car drives fine right now but tomorrow I will take it for a longer drive (30km) and if nothing happens I would say that is that. Should I leave the modulation as is or fine tune it a bit more?

RangeRoller dt · Saturday at 18:48

Anywhere near the 50 mark will do. Judge it off how it drives particularly once it’s had a good run.

Datatek · Saturday at 19:20

feyniriel said:
Today we did the static timing as described by datatek, first tapping the FIP 5mm away from the engine and 1mm back, after driving the engine to 95 degrees this gave a jump to 60% modulation at idle, from the old 4%. Then tapping it again towards the engine 1mm or so resulted in no change and another mm gave 51-53% modulation at idle. After letting the car sit for 10 minutes and driving it warm again, at idle Nanocom showed 53-57%. The car drives fine right now but tomorrow I will take it for a longer drive (30km) and if nothing happens I would say that is that. Should I leave the modulation as is or fine tune it a bit more?

51/53% is just fine, as near perfect as you will get.

feyniriel · Sunday at 08:39

After doing a longer drive, everything seems to be well. It even accelerates better than before. Static timing fixed it. Thank you guys for your help!

Mark Piercy · Sunday at 11:18

Your welcome, thank you for listening

brianp38dse · Sunday at 15:49

Glad its sorted, they are very nice when they are working right.

Grrrrrr · 2025-04-28T05:13:44+0100

Datatek said:
It sounds OK, but you need to look at the battery with a DVM. Certainly you need to do the static timing of the FIP. PM me with an email address and I will send you a way of doing it without the dial gauge etc.

I think given we don't know the starting point with his he'd be better off doing the static with a dial guage and then maybe using the Nanocom to move it towards the engine later to see if it helps. Someone has done something wrong here so I would put everything as per RAVE to start with.

My suspicion is the FIP isn't on right and maybe acting up on top.

Grrrrrr · 2025-04-28T05:16:39+0100

brianp38dse said:
Glad its sorted, they are very nice when they are working right.

Is it sorted?

Mark Piercy · 2025-04-28T05:22:49+0100

Grrrrrr said:
Is it sorted?

feyniriel said:
Today we did the static timing as described by datatek, first tapping the FIP 5mm away from the engine and 1mm back, after driving the engine to 95 degrees this gave a jump to 60% modulation at idle, from the old 4%. Then tapping it again towards the engine 1mm or so resulted in no change and another mm gave 51-53% modulation at idle. After letting the car sit for 10 minutes and driving it warm again, at idle Nanocom showed 53-57%. The car drives fine right now but tomorrow I will take it for a longer drive (30km) and if nothing happens I would say that is that. Should I leave the modulation as is or fine tune it a bit more?

Keep up @Grrrrrr

Grrrrrr · 2025-04-28T19:45:59+0100

Mark Piercy said:
Keep up @Grrrrrr

Odd. Didn't see that post!

P38 gearbox fault and engine dies

feyniriel

Active Member

Datatek

Well-Known Member

Mark Piercy

Well fumbled member....

feyniriel

Active Member

RangeRoller dt

Well-Sprung Member

Datatek

Well-Known Member

feyniriel

Active Member

Mark Piercy

Well fumbled member....

brianp38dse

Well-Known Member

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

Mark Piercy

Well fumbled member....

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

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