P38 DSE after engine change woes

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rayc

rayc

New Member
Posts
106
Location
Deal, Kent UK
I've tried to put this topic 3 times now, Each time it says needs to be ok'd by admin but it doesn't appear so I cant understand whats gone wrong:mad:

I have just changed the engine in my DSE. After it kicking and biting all the way through I finally have the engine in and plumbed.

However! it wont give up without a fight!

Just so you know. I have checked / cleaned all earths / connectors and made sure all plugs are in place.

My problem.

When I connect the battery and put the ignition on I get a tick, tick coming simultaneously from the fuse box, Glow plug relay, injection pump shut off valve and under the passenger seat.

I have a sync mate and when I put this in the plug it flashes on and off which says to me there is an electrical feed problem somewhere. The dash board lights also go dim and bright with the pulse.

The battery is fully charged. I have checked the earth by adding a jump lead from the engine to the battery post and no different.

If I try and start the engine the start solenoid clicks in but does nothing more. Then the horn starts to sound (again sounds like bad connection to me)

The battery etc has been out of the car 2 weeks whilst I have been doing this job (In spare time). It's a 95 325TD Engine going into a 99 Range rover. It also shows Gearbox fault and ABS fault on the dash display (Which I know is normally due to flat battery) but it does this even with a battery charger / booster attached.

Today I have managed to stop the ticking by removing relay 19. However, this cures nothing as such because when I put the syn mate in it wont communicate and slows red!

I am at that point where I dont know where to look next. Can anyone point me in the right direction please?


Thanks

Ray
 
I have delved into the forum via seach and can only find one remotely similar incidence in which the concensus is fuse box. I am dubious in my case as the car was fine 2 weeks ago and has been sat in a dry warehouse whilst the work has been undergone.

I assume everyone has gone away for Easter so will keep plugging my through
 
Hi, Yes the main earth is on and I have tried with a jeavy duty jump lead attached from engine to battery post.

I agree it sounds like an earth / power problem as when it tries to draw current (I assume) it cant hence the clicking.
 
Sounds suspiciously similar to my wifes car (Nissan Micra, don't laugh!) ... Immobiliser clicking, 'other' relays and 'stuff' clicking but engine not turning over, starter not spinning, battery reading 12.6v so should have been OK. Started fine when I jumped it from the Disco ... So tried again, multimeter across the battery, steady at 12.6v, nothing happening, then all dash lights went dim, relays start clicking and battery voltage drops to 11.2!!

Took battery off, attached to charger, immediately says battery is full .. then 10 minutes later only at 20% capacity .. battery fooked .. looks like one cells broken down ... ;)

I'd suggest trying to start the P38 jumping it from another car, then try another, known to be good, battery.
 
j the range said:
have you tried live from bat to starter, earth from engine to body..
Click to expand...

Hi
Yes tried earth to body then ran a live to starter. Starter solenoid clicked so I replaced starter thinking the garage had burnt it out when testing prviously. Put replacement starter on and still only clicks (But fine off car).
 
Paul D said:
Sounds suspiciously similar to my wifes car (Nissan Micra, don't laugh!) ... Immobiliser clicking, 'other' relays and 'stuff' clicking but engine not turning over, starter not spinning, battery reading 12.6v so should have been OK. Started fine when I jumped it from the Disco ... So tried again, multimeter across the battery, steady at 12.6v, nothing happening, then all dash lights went dim, relays start clicking and battery voltage drops to 11.2!!

Took battery off, attached to charger, immediately says battery is full .. then 10 minutes later only at 20% capacity .. battery fooked .. looks like one cells broken down ... ;)

I'd suggest trying to start the P38 jumping it from another car, then try another, known to be good, battery.
Click to expand...

Hi Paul. That was my initial thought. I have 3 good batteries now all the same. I have a battery charger with jump start facility and still the same.

I'm glad from reading these that I have gone through the obvious!

When I removed relay 19 (engine electrics I assume) AND EVERYTHING STOPPED CLICKING I thought I'd try the syn mate but it then turned red as it couldn't communicate.

Does anyone know what circuit relay 19 covers?
 
have you tried putting your eka code in? try jumping off another car, change the starter solenoid in the fuse box. thats all i can think of at the min..
 
I haven't done the EKA due to having the sync mate.

Another thing I haven't put here but did in the original postings (That vanished) was that the dash display shows gearbox fault (Normally get when battery is flat) and also ABS fault (which I've read elsewhere can be possibly fuse box). I will re iterate everything was fine before the engine was changed. So it's obviosuly that that has caused the problem.

The battery was off over 2 weeks so maybe I need to get someone with rovercom to reset the whole lot?

As I've said this change has bitten me all the way through with various problems.

Just loves to keep me occupied!
 
rayc said:
Hi Paul. That was my initial thought. I have 3 good batteries now all the same. I have a battery charger with jump start facility and still the same.

I'm glad from reading these that I have gone through the obvious!

When I removed relay 19 (engine electrics I assume) AND EVERYTHING STOPPED CLICKING I thought I'd try the syn mate but it then turned red as it couldn't communicate.

Does anyone know what circuit relay 19 covers?
Click to expand...

Try putting jump leads from a spare battery direct across the starter motor and a jump the solenoid connecction to see if it engages and turns. Could be something is stopping the starter engaging:eek:
 
Done that.

Solenoid jumps in and out but wont turn over.

More I think about it the more I'm thinking earth terminal again.

Main earth is attached to the engine and to the earthing point. Which has been cleaned and the battery terminal cleaned.

After these postings I'm thinking that if there is insufficient grounding then there is insufficient power flow for the starter to engage and maybe thats why all the other circuits are clicking (almost like loose battery terminal but it isnt):doh:
 
rayc said:
Done that.

Solenoid jumps in and out but wont turn over.

More I think about it the more I'm thinking earth terminal again.

Main earth is attached to the engine and to the earthing point. Which has been cleaned and the battery terminal cleaned.

After these postings I'm thinking that if there is insufficient grounding then there is insufficient power flow for the starter to engage and maybe thats why all the other circuits are clicking (almost like loose battery terminal but it isnt):doh:
Click to expand...

If you have put your jump leads straight across the starter motor and it doesn't turn, the problem is mechanical, not earths or anything else. Did you clip the negative jump lead direct to the body of the starter motor and the pos direct to the solenoid?
 
Not when it was back on the engine I didnt as there isn't enough space due to the metal manifold. (Original was plastic manifold).

I'm going to nip over to the unit in a bit and see what I can do. I have turned the engine over by hand without any problems (apart from compression)
 
rayc said:
Not when it was back on the engine I didnt as there isn't enough space due to the metal manifold. (Original was plastic manifold).

I'm going to nip over to the unit in a bit and see what I can do. I have turned the engine over by hand without any problems (apart from compression)
Click to expand...

The fact remains that if you put power direct to the starter motor and it neither engages or turns, you have a mechanical problem. The starter solenoid pre-engages the gear and at full travel applies power to the motor. If something is blocking engagement, the motor will not turn:(
 
Hi,
I've used Rick on my Petrol, in fact I'm contemplating another trip to see him to sort starting problems.

Unfortunately though, he's in Brighton which is the best part of 150 miles away from me.
 
Irishrover said:
Sorry about that...Yes you are right, he is in the Brighton area, my brain was addled!!!
Click to expand...

Well it is a bank holiday weekend. So your entitled to a bit of that!:D

If you look on the map it's only a couple of inches away!:D;)

Shame there's no one nearer. Maybe I'll have to invest in one!
 
Right. Went back and spent an hour with it this afternoon.

I have checked the main earth wire behind aircon pump and its secure and clean.

Put ignition on with Relay 19 out. Car says windows not set but thats all.

Put in relay 19 the clicking starts and seems to take a lot of juice from the battery.

Switched off checked connections.

Main earth - Fine.
2 x head sensors = connected.
1 injector connected.
Fuel solenoid on pump - connected 8mm nut.
Fuel filter connected
EGR connected
Bottom pump Connected
Oil filter connected

13mm main live on Alternator connected (also to starter)
10mm to alternator connected and showing earth (Not running obviousl so not charging).
10mm on starter solenoid connected.

13mm main live feed from battery round back of engine connected and live

Gearbox multi plug connected

Glow plugs all connected.

Air con compressor connected.

Air con fans not connected as yet.

Power to fuse box fine.

Earth from fuse box fine.

ECU earth correct

Power to glowplug relay live.

Plug in relay 19.

tick tick bloody tick from glow plug relay, Fuel pump, and under pass seat:doh::doh::doh::doh:.
Dash display then shows traction control fault, ABS fault and gearbox fault (Normally associated with flat battery). Put booster charger negative lead onto the inlet manifold and big sparks (Heavy load?) suggesting again that the earth isn't brilliant?

Put my tester onto solenoid connector (10mm) and give it a power up. Solenoid clicked and a spark from the starter as the other 13mm nut for the solenoid to starter was loose. :doh: Tightened this up and no difference. Just click click click of the solenoid moving in and out.

So! Removed relay 19 again and all error codes gone for traction etc.

Now stumped!

Any suggestions please? Answers on a postcard to ........:rolleyes:

Even the box of matches sounds feasible!:D
 
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