P38 DSE 97 Auto 1st Gear JOLT

Hi Guys...

It looks like the old girl is fixed on keeping me on the forum. Went for a run yesterday (about 80miles) and at about 75miles I noticed something she has never done before;

When coming to a halt (example a roundabout), she will jolt as she changes down into 1st gear. It feels the same as when you have a slack in the drive train and its being taken up... but she ONLY does it when she changes down into first gear and sometimes will give a similar symptom when you select Revers. She has always been smooth and these are new symptoms.

I have checked oil and its fine.... I though this based on the fact that it takes about 20 or 30min to start doing it and thus I thought about oil levels being low and overheating being the issue, but with oils being ok am stuck. I did 'top the oils' up to be safe (probably overfilled it a bit) and she does the same.

in my acura a similar problem was solved by flushing the gearbox oil on one of those machines and cleaning the wire mesh strainer which was almost completely clogged. don't know where the crud came from as oil was relatively clean coming out! sorry can't give you a more direct answer as my RR is a manual and i don't know the autoboxes.

Many Folk do say after an oil change , clean up fo the filter it smooths things out?... worth a try...

I haven't changed the oil ! as post; on inspection it didn't show it needed any. I did however top it up to be safe (which I acknowledge may not have been a good thing).

I just don't know what could be causing the jolt as it only happens in 1st Gear.

Now it does it sooner... so it may not be heat from lack of oil. Any1 with any ideas where to start checking?

Still going along with a clunk!

I've been thinking about how to best describe the sound. It's almost like it slaps into gear on change down when slowing at a junction.

I thought it was into first, but I now think its second. It slap/clunks/jolts into second then a slightly softer slap/clunk/jolt into first.

If you slow really softly then the slap/clunk/jolt is a lot softer. The harsher you brake = the harsher the slap/clunk/jolt.

She changes up fine. And she's fine when cold.

Any ideas chaps?

If I was to change the fluids myself. What is the best auto fluid to replace with?

Prop UJ's?

Datatek said:

Prop UJ's?

Click to expand...

Had the UJ done in June this year due to a noise like birds singing under the car when on light throttle. That fixed it. I've been back under to check everything and I cant move the front or rear prop shafts either vertical or horizontally by wiggling with my body weight. Do they need re-greasing you think? Probably wouldn't harm would it.

I have checked the trans oil levels and it is a bit high up the dip stick (checked when cold and idle after changing though gears and back to park as manual). But having said that - would that cause these noises?

I'm wondering if I have incorrect oil in the trany. I may have to do an oil change to ensure correct oil and levels. Update: Just noticed that I have been given Comma ATF AQM (dex2). Rave says Dex3, but thought Dex2 wasn't made anymore anyway and it was the same thing.... will it do?

I was also thinking the noise is actually further back from inside - around the transfer box. Could this be the issue?

I was thinking of changing the the transfer box oil at the same time of the trany. My thinking here is I might as well get oil all over my face just the once instead of twice.

Whilst I'm under there. I might as well do the front and rear axle diffs. I have the oils ready for them so might as well hay.

ffs change all the oils already. you started this thread over two weeks ago and you're still driving like that? clean any strainers you find in the sumps, look for any debris or grit in the autobox oil and then come back.

Guys... I know I'm gunna get flack for this - but only just got round to doing an oil change.... I know I know. But I've lost job recently and other things have been taking priority and don't use the rangie often due to costs of fuel etc. Just take her for a spin to keep everything moving.

I went under to identify all the drain plugs etc. Does anyone know what size allan key I need for the drain plugs on the Transfer, axle and socket needed for the bolt on the oil pan? I don't have the size needed and only want to buy the correct size and not a set due to funds.

When you use the transfer box do you get a whining noise? Also do you have the same symptoms when in sport mode?

could it be the chain in the transfer box becoming worn.???.

Canyon: Does the same in Sports... and does not wine in Low range. can;'t lock the diffs manually as its electronic but I have no wired noises other than the jolt that came on very quickly. One day not there next it was. No off road or anything between the two instances.

I've manually restricted the gears when approaching a junc to confirm the gear and its defiantly 2nd and 1st. Worst from 3rd to 2nd. The slower you come to a stop, the softer the jolt.

kind bump...

Right.... booked into Garage for Thursday. Checking all UJ's and Changing Oils in Main Box, transfer and Axles.

Feedback was that it could be a sticking gearbox valve and that a dose of stop slip may solve it otherwise it would probably be better to replace main box and transfer with recon / second hand units.. as it could be main box at fault or chain slip in transfer box.

Will update Friday when I get her back...

Right... got the beasty back. Oil changed in the main gearbox and transfer box. Stop slip added to main box.

I've been told to drive it for about 100miles to see how it goes, but I have a sinking feeling as after 30miles no change.

Garage suggests next step if no change after 100miles is to take off the props and check the viscus coupling.

What's the thoughts? Is it transfer box, viscus or both and how do you check and whats the cheapest way to go?

hello mate.i had exactly the same on my disco,2 garages could,nt find the problem,it done my head in,drove like that for 4 yrs,but worst is i,ve now got it on my rangie.i think the problem lies in the transfer box but until it blows up it won,t get changed.

Yeh... In my heart I think its the transfer box or viscus... but what I'm afraid of and can't afford is to replace both. So I suppose my question is which one do I do first and how I check which one needs changing?

Ok... so I guess I won't have to wait long to find out what was causing that clunking then as the Rangie is now parked up at the side of the road waiting for me to sort out the AA tomorrow morning!!!!!

Was going down the duel carriageway at 60ish;

1) Noticed a strange change into 4th. Shed change into 4th, then almost instantly change back to 3rd then back into 4th again)

2) About 5min later down the road I felt something like a gear change... Seamed strange as I didn't think I'd come off at all - gave her some right foot but then had a feeling of (all I can say is) the handbrake being on. Happened to be next to an exit so came off and pulled up.

3) Checked the handbrake and it was off.

4) Brakes not binding

5) She would select all P, R, N, D, 3, 2 and 1 in both high and Low box... moved fwds and back in each to check.

6) Engine revved fine without any nasty sounds in N.

7) Decided to head back home so turned around and pulled away (now on A class roads going 30mph)

8) About 5min latter again, came to a junction, had some wining some rattles and light grinding / light rumble... then 5sec later as I was pulling over a crunching rumbling feeling and noise and the drive started to stiffen / tighten up.

9) Managed to pull off the road, but needed to help her with a little throttle to move completely off the road to make sure my back end was clear.

10) By this time (we're talking only a few seconds if that) I needed to give quite a bit of throttle just to make her move and you could feel the drive train getting really stiff at this point.

11) Stopped, selected 'N without issue and switched off.

12) Smock coming from under vehicle and smell of Transmission Oil but no leaks.

No idea if this is Transfer Box or Gearbox.

Hope to God its the Transfer Box and NOT the main box but wouldn't of thought that the Transfer box would effect the gear changing of the main box would it. Unless it was actually the VC or torque converter messing with the torque up in 4th and that eventual led to the transfer box itself failing????

Anyway - any thoughts would be welcomed as I now settle down for the night and get ready to phone the very nice man tm morning and have the embarrassment of raving my p38 low-loaded to a garage!!

What's the expected costs of replacing both main and transfer box inc fitting? (97'' 2.5 DSE Auto on 136Kmiles). Recent oil change that showed no heavy metallic deposits from either of the boxes.

SAT Recovery Update: Got it recovered and noticed that the Front diff plug was missing... as it came off the truck, the garage said it felt like a Diff. Then I explained that I just noticed that the plug was missing... so we'll see what the outcome is. The hope now I think, for both me and the garage is that the clunking was the diff. Otherwise, am I right in thinking that seeing as the garage on Thursday checked the oils on the Diff - that any remedial work required on that diff (unless it fixes the previous clunking) is the responsibility and liability of the garage?

What would people say is the best way to play it. I'm phoning the garage Monday afternoon to get an update, and as previously mentioned will accept the cost of a front Diff replacement IF it fixies the previous Clunking. If not, then my position at the moment is that the Front Diff has failed due to negligence of the garage. I'm assuming in this that diff drain plugs don't just fall out on there own. No leaks where reported to me following an instruction to check all oils. In deed, the garage actualy said that the oils didn't need changing.

i have the same in a ford ranger , and on that one it is the body valve there is leaking.