blackstrat
Well-Known Member
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- 9,265
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- East Anglia
Bet vilguy's missus could turn it over..
P38 diesel wont turn over
- Thread starter confusedp38
- Start date
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tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
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- wirral and triquivijate
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- 18,963
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Hold on ... has Eaglesalz got 2 threads going here?
- Posts
- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
Not unless he has two accounts.
No I have not. I had this problems before confused
. I just came across this one and wanted to let him know how I got mine started (sort off, a bit funny looks yesterday when in the supermarket and lifted the bonnet to start the engine, or is that normal for a bonnet to be up on a P38:lol after looking at all the replies on here and will look into what Datatek has suggested about the switch.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
No I have not. I had this problems before confused
The starter circuit is quite simple. Power comes to both sides, pin 1 relay pull and pin 3 solenoid power, relay 16. From either MF 2 pre 1999 or fuse 40 post 1999. Pull circuit then goes via relay pin 2 through BECM back to ignition switch. Providing BECM has no objection which it can have for various reasons. When ignition switch is moved to position 1,2 or 3 the circuit is grounded. Position 3 pulls relay. When relay is pulled it makes pin 3 to pin 5 and puts power from MF 2 or fuse 40 to starter solenoid. If position 1 position 2 on ignition switch work then the circuit is being grounded. So this only leaves a bad connection at position 3 if the ignition switch is responsible. Remove relay and test for voltage between pins 1 and 2 when key is turned to position 3. If none that side of the circuit must be the problem. As you can bridge pins 3 and 5 to start the car the pull circuit is favourite. Or the relay is knackered but think you have already tried that. So after establishing voltage to pin 1 relay 16 you will have to trace power flow from pin 2 relay 16 to appropriate input pin BECM and from output pin BECM to ignition switch. If all have continuity switch must be faulty. If no continuity between any of the pins the fault lays between them.
Thanks for that Wammers j ust the answer I was looking for with all the numbers. Now I can look further.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
confusedp38
Member
- Posts
- 58
Found the problem in the end which was a bit obvious I suppose. In fact fuse 40 was blown (it wasnt very obvious when I checked it first of all). What I didnt appreciate is that fuse 40 covers starting and the EAS. Cause of blown fuse was that the EAS compressor's conrod had broken (Yes !!). This had then jammed the motor which had then burned out - presumably the thermal cutout had failed to operate ?
This compressor was only a year old - an "aftermarket" compressor so I dont think much of those and wouldnt recommend them to anyone.!!
However I now have a further problem. Could anyone help please ?
When I found out that the compressor was U/S I replaced the fuse so that I could move the car out of a field - only about quarter of a mile or so.
I then fitted a good secondhand compressor (original type - suction seems fine). Initially after start up everything seemed ok although it took about 2 minutes to pump up to normal. I started it up a couple of times and it was fine. The lights on the dash all behaved normally. Then about 3 days later I came to use the vehicle. Now all 4 lights are on and visually it seems to be very high. Checked with the EAS software. Initially just "7. vehicle has moved" and under F9 "128". Cleared faults and tried again. Same problem - just 4 solid lights on dash.
Checked again and there were about 16 different faults logged. I have kept a note of these. Cleared them. Still all 4 lights on (I have definitely had the doors closed as I have made this mistake before !). Cleared the faults again and now "1. F8.2 Hidden". Still all 4 lights on and not behaving itself.
I checked the wheel heights and they were all between 127 and 135 with "DW" in red lit up. Does this mean that for some reason it is stuck on wading height ??
Visually the vehicle appears to be high as if on deep wading.
Any help as to what to do next gratefully received. Thanks.
This compressor was only a year old - an "aftermarket" compressor so I dont think much of those and wouldnt recommend them to anyone.!!
However I now have a further problem. Could anyone help please ?
When I found out that the compressor was U/S I replaced the fuse so that I could move the car out of a field - only about quarter of a mile or so.
I then fitted a good secondhand compressor (original type - suction seems fine). Initially after start up everything seemed ok although it took about 2 minutes to pump up to normal. I started it up a couple of times and it was fine. The lights on the dash all behaved normally. Then about 3 days later I came to use the vehicle. Now all 4 lights are on and visually it seems to be very high. Checked with the EAS software. Initially just "7. vehicle has moved" and under F9 "128". Cleared faults and tried again. Same problem - just 4 solid lights on dash.
Checked again and there were about 16 different faults logged. I have kept a note of these. Cleared them. Still all 4 lights on (I have definitely had the doors closed as I have made this mistake before !). Cleared the faults again and now "1. F8.2 Hidden". Still all 4 lights on and not behaving itself.
I checked the wheel heights and they were all between 127 and 135 with "DW" in red lit up. Does this mean that for some reason it is stuck on wading height ??
Visually the vehicle appears to be high as if on deep wading.
Any help as to what to do next gratefully received. Thanks.
