P38 diesel radiator problem

I managed to blow the top of the radiator on my P38 and wondered if I could just change the plastic casing.

It appears to be held on with a series of aluminium lips which look like they can be bent back.

Is it possible to just change the plastic top of the radiator?

I can get a cheap radiator online but both of the bottom screws are rotating in their plastic housings and as a sixty five year old my days of clambering under cars are behind me. The other problem is opening the oil pipes as no doubt the stuff will go everywhere.

It is a 96 car and if I can't find a quick fix It will be heading for the scrapyard

not sure what you mean exactly by "blown the top off" Oldpilot, but there are a good few radiator repair videos on YouTube,
e.g.

Oldpilot said:

I managed to blow the top of the radiator on my P38 and wondered if I could just change the plastic casing.

It appears to be held on with a series of aluminium lips which look like they can be bent back.

Is it possible to just change the plastic top of the radiator?

I can get a cheap radiator online but both of the bottom screws are rotating in their plastic housings and as a sixty five year old my days of clambering under cars are behind me. The other problem is opening the oil pipes as no doubt the stuff will go everywhere.

It is a 96 car and if I can't find a quick fix It will be heading for the scrapyard

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You could if you could get one, think you will find the alloy clasps are in fact stainless steel. They are on my old one anyway. If you get a new rad make sure it is not one of the cheap and cheerful ones without the top baffle.

I'm guessing you mean the top tank has split along the seam, can be due to age related brittleness or symptomatic of another problem, eg.over pressure due to cylinder head gasket leak, failed viscous fan or water pump. Had several over the years and have now switched to totally alloy rad, cost about twice a cheap plastic tanked one. I presume it also overheated so would look more deeply than just replacing rad.

After a decades good service and as it has reached the age of 20 with 225'000 on the clock I think it is time for the scrapyard. Been offered £250. Sadly I replaced the suspension air pump a month ago.

The tank blew because I left it idling to charge the battery and the fan belt snapped. It has been giving sqeeling noises for the last few months and I had a spare one in the boot for the last year.

Oldpilot said:

After a decades good service and as it has reached the age of 20 with 225'000 on the clock I think it is time for the scrapyard. Been offered £250. Sadly I replaced the suspension air pump a month ago.

The tank blew because I left it idling to charge the battery and the fan belt snapped. It has been giving sqeeling noises for the last few months and I had a spare one in the boot for the last year.

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That will cause overheat every time, although pressure cap should have let go before rad fractured. They are designed to release pressure over 15 PSI and totally vent at 22 PSI to prevent system damage. Whilst lack of circulation caused by belt failure will cause overheat the cap should have gone long before the rad did. BMW did a total recall on vehicles in around 1998 to change the pressure caps that were faulty causing over pressure and system failure. It appears Landrover didn't bother. Having said that the top tanks are prone to age related fatigue failure of their own volition from time to time. Usually along the line of the raised trunking for the brass vent pipe near the inlet hose side.

Oldpilot said:

After a decades good service and as it has reached the age of 20 with 225'000 on the clock I think it is time for the scrapyard. Been offered £250. Sadly I replaced the suspension air pump a month ago.

The tank blew because I left it idling to charge the battery and the fan belt snapped. It has been giving sqeeling noises for the last few months and I had a spare one in the boot for the last year.

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It is has a decent MoT certificate with 6 months or more then £250 is too little. New Nissens rad isn't much from Island 4-4. Dead easy to fit. As long as the head wasn't cooked it'll be fine. Could probably get £900 for it all working with a ticket. Call it £200 to fix the rad. Think you should have at least £500 unless you know there is something else wrong with it.

Grrrrrr said:

It is has a decent MoT certificate with 6 months or more then £250 is too little. New Nissens rad isn't much from Island 4-4. Dead easy to fit. As long as the head wasn't cooked it'll be fine. Could probably get £900 for it all working with a ticket. Call it £200 to fix the rad. Think you should have at least £500 unless you know there is something else wrong with it.

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Nissens rad to fit either manual or auto is £150.00 from island. Genuine dedicated manual auto are around the £250.00 mark. A scrappy will make £1000.00 to £1500.00 on the bits.

The big problem with changing it as I see is that there are two oil cooler pipes from the gearbox that go in the bottom. I imagine opening those dumps the oil?

Oldpilot said:

The big problem with changing it as I see is that there are two oil cooler pipes from the gearbox that go in the bottom. I imagine opening those dumps the oil?

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Gearbox oil cooler, must be a manual, you will lose a little but not much just need a drip tray. Then after running around block will have to top gearbox up.

Watch the oil cooler pipe connections where they go into the bottom of the radiator as they're brass and can be wrenched off very easily. Not an issue if you're replacing the radiator but make sure they break the right end.

Given all the hassle of trying to fix it and my age plus the fact the mot ran out this week I am tempted to take the £250 a local guy has offered.

It seems a shame to scrap it with four really good tyres and the airpump just replaced but
I doubt I will get anymore than that on ebay.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Could see if there is anyone on here who might do it for you? Must be someone close who'd do it for a few beer tokens. It is a quick and easy job if you have the parts delivered.