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P38 - Diesel Pump

Discussion in 'Range Rover' started by Steve000, Jan 27, 2013.

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  1. Steve000

    Steve000 New Member

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    My P38 recently did huge trip through France blew radiator it's a 2.5 turbo diesel auto box.... Was sat for few days replaced radiator and then the diesel pump started leaking (few tears and liberal use of the c word !) seems to be coming from the gaskets on the side ... On further investigation for labour and pump about a grand ...I can't drive it as the leak is so bad ... I can't get it to diesel engineer....

    the cost of my P38 ..... Isn't far off the cost of repair .... It's only done 109k do I break it or fix it !? Not sure the pic is attached .....

     

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  2. Bix

    Bix Well-Known Member

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    Fix it. When you're buying second hand you're always going to buy problems. Sure the repair might cost more than you think the vehicle is worth, but when you fix it you'll have a fault free vehicle. If you sell and buy another one you're starting from square one.
     
  3. wammers

    wammers STILL BREATHING. Donater

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    Fix it the seal are cheap enough.
     
  4. drag100

    drag100 New Member

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    i recently changed one in the car its a easy job much easyer than i thought it would be anyway
     
  5. JohnnyCrash

    JohnnyCrash New Member

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    fix it - easy job :)

    want instructions??
     
  6. Steve000

    Steve000 New Member

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    Thanks guys ......I'm fixing it persuaded me...johnnycrash - instructions definitely needed I have read on here someone replaced the gaskets for small amount of cash ... I figure if it doesn't work ill just chip in and have it reconditioned ... I'm blaming the crappy French diesel for this whole episode ....no wonder its cheap !!!!!!
     
  7. JohnnyCrash

    JohnnyCrash New Member

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    Think it's just the age of the seals that causes this as seems to be a very common problem, all the anti Bio Diesel people were only too happy to jump all over me when I mentioned I was replacing the seals in mine, but they were leaking long before I switched to Bio or Veg oil lol
     
  8. JohnnyCrash

    JohnnyCrash New Member

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    Replacing the seals really isn't that hard of a job (just messy) and if you mark off everything with a few deep scratch marks in the housing before you remove anything you will be fine once this goes back together.

    Level 1 nice and easy, no need to mark anything off for this level. 7mm Socket hammered on the security bolt will be ok as even if you have the correct Bosch tool, chances are you will round the head off and need to replace the bolt

    [​IMG]

    Now Mark everything off before you loosen and remove level 2! (also undo eleccy bits)

    you must ensure this [​IMG]

    Ends up back in the cup - practice this a few times before you put everything back together!
    [​IMG]

    Now - as you forgot to mark everything off you need to know how to get your car started, well crack off your injector pipes and loosen all the bolts on the FIP push the middle plate back (towards bulkhead) and crank the engine. Once the engine begins to run move the plate around until you get a smooth tick over. Tighten everything down and take for a test drive :)
     
  9. Datatek

    Datatek Well-Known Member

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    Nothing wrong with French diesel, I've been using it for 4 years with no problem. Yours is the same but over taxed.:p
     
  10. JohnnyCrash

    JohnnyCrash New Member

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    +1 Never had a problem with diesel in France :p
     
  11. Steve000

    Steve000 New Member

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    Thanks Johnny you actually make it sound easy !...is there a seal kit available ? Are you free to spend 7 hours on my drive this Sunday ? If I want to blame the French for this debacle as opposed to our wonderful British engineering and ideaology then I will !

    Appreciated guys....... potentially saved me a fortune or should I frick it up potentially cost me a fortune ....!
     
  12. stemac33

    stemac33 Well-Known Member

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    Hi there did you manage to get it sorted, as i have developed a leak on mine 2.5 td 1996, seems to be coming from around the black box thingy on the side of the pump. did you manage to get hold of a seal kit if so could you point me in the right direction please.
    cheers
    steve
     
  13. Steve000

    Steve000 New Member

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    I have looked at the problem several times but not tackled it yet.....waiting for weather to improve ... As soon I find a solution ill let you know ....
     
  14. Steve000

    Steve000 New Member

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    Bought pump seal kit on e bay for £13 ! ......
     
  15. wodge

    wodge Member

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    hye
    i have a P reg diesel p38 which has become an ornament on my drive now for months .it was running ok was parked and when we tryed to start it again it would not start.we found no fuel at the injectors .the injection pump has been replaced as has the in tank pump as well ,i have a healthy flow of diesel at the pump in and out back to the tank.but as before changing both pumps i still cannot get fuel to the injectors .if easy start or calor is squirted down the inlet it trys to start but the injectors remain bone dry.the looom has been checked with a multimeter and the solenoids all click when a remote battery with fly leads wwas connected . i give in ,any help would be apreciated
    cheers wodge
     
  16. Saint.V8

    Saint.V8 Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

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    Have you tried having the BeCM and the Engine ECU resynced using a Syncmate or Diagnostic Device???

    Check the Ignition relay (I know it is a diesel...same thing), and try bridging the Stop Solenoid Relay! (Or is that the Ignition Relay??)
     
  17. wammers

    wammers STILL BREATHING. Donater

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    Sounds like it's out of sync as Ant said. Hope the new FIP was the same part number as the one that came off or it will never start synced or not.
     
  18. JohnnyCrash

    JohnnyCrash New Member

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    Did the OP ever get sorted?? or is he sit sat there in a pool of diesel crying??

    anyway I've only just noticed your cry for help, and yes if you have not already sorted this then I am available to help (location depending)
     
  19. Smokeygt4

    Smokeygt4 New Member

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    I just did my seals all went ok just the hard part of trying to start it up now

    what middle back plate you talking about to move towards the bulkhead
    i take it the top of the fuel pump has to be on the pump b4 starting and the inlet manifold is off out of the way?
    or have i miss read it?
     
  20. wammers

    wammers STILL BREATHING. Donater

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    Make sure quantity solenoid lever is engaged. It is the part on the middle picture that needs moving back or forth to get quantity collar in correct position. Once you have started engine let it warm for a few minutes then tap that part back and forth again until you get a rock steady 750 idle speed then torque bolts up fully. And yes top has to be on to start car.
     
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