tacr2man
Well-Known Member
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- 3,926
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- J10 M40 UK
Has anyone tried cutting a access hole in floor to save having to remove tank ? 
P38 diesel Fuel pump
- Thread starter tacr2man
- Start date
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Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- 43,967
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- Near Poitiers SW France
Do a search, Canyon did a good write up with dimensions and photo's on cutting the floor for access to the pump.
gog
Active Member
- Posts
- 138
- Location
- conwy n.wales
Yeah i've done it,do as datatek says to get the measurements for the cut ,
much easier,quicker way to do this job.
much easier,quicker way to do this job.
Help!! I'm new, probably on the wrong post but here goes........
I have just bought a 1996 Range Rover 2.5 DSE, starts fine when cold but will not for the life of me start when hot, it just keeps turning over and over. Called the AA today and the man checked stop solenoid, temperature coolant sensor, relays, cracked injectors (no fuel) fuses, easy start into air filter housing (which started the engine 3 times and it kept running) before taking the fuel pipe off at the filter and discovered that all though the in tank pump was working it was only blowing a dribble of fuel through. His diagnosis is that the pump is sha**ged..........would that sound correct to you? PS....it has done this with 3/4 tank of fuel and also 1/4.
I have just bought a 1996 Range Rover 2.5 DSE, starts fine when cold but will not for the life of me start when hot, it just keeps turning over and over. Called the AA today and the man checked stop solenoid, temperature coolant sensor, relays, cracked injectors (no fuel) fuses, easy start into air filter housing (which started the engine 3 times and it kept running) before taking the fuel pipe off at the filter and discovered that all though the in tank pump was working it was only blowing a dribble of fuel through. His diagnosis is that the pump is sha**ged..........would that sound correct to you? PS....it has done this with 3/4 tank of fuel and also 1/4.
ovalandrover
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,591
Mine has a problem starting when hot but only when tank is below 1/4 full and is probably the in tank fuel pump.
There is a hot start fix that can be got off ebay but also there is a threa on here that you can make your own.Do a search for hot start fix on here
There is a hot start fix that can be got off ebay but also there is a threa on here that you can make your own.Do a search for hot start fix on here
enery8
Active Member
- Posts
- 540
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- Near Weymouth, Dorset
Has anyone tried cutting a access hole in floor to save having to remove tank ?
LIke datatek says, Canyons instructions worked great. easy as plenty of pictures and measurements.
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Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 43,967
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Help!! I'm new, probably on the wrong post but here goes........
I have just bought a 1996 Range Rover 2.5 DSE, starts fine when cold but will not for the life of me start when hot, it just keeps turning over and over. Called the AA today and the man checked stop solenoid, temperature coolant sensor, relays, cracked injectors (no fuel) fuses, easy start into air filter housing (which started the engine 3 times and it kept running) before taking the fuel pipe off at the filter and discovered that all though the in tank pump was working it was only blowing a dribble of fuel through. His diagnosis is that the pump is sha**ged..........would that sound correct to you? PS....it has done this with 3/4 tank of fuel and also 1/4.
Either the pump is, as the AA said shagged or the intake is blocked with bacterial growth. Either way it's a pump out job.
In all honesty can you think of anything else that it could be? And can you explain why it will start in the morning but not when the engine is hot? Surely if the pump is sha**ed then it's sha**ed when the engine is both hot and cold, or is this not the case?
Last edited:
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- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
In all honesty can you think of anything else that it could be? And can you explain why it will start in the morning but not when the engine is hot? Surely if the pump is sha**ed then it's sha**ed when the engine is both hot and cold, or is this not the case?
Different fuelling/timing parameters are set when engine is cold. That is the simple reason. Get your lift pump checked out and get the FIP static timing checked. Easiest way to find out if FIP is out, is to get timing modulation check with diagnostics.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- Near Poitiers SW France
In all honesty can you think of anything else that it could be? And can you explain why it will start in the morning but not when the engine is hot? Surely if the pump is sha**ed then it's sha**ed when the engine is both hot and cold, or is this not the case?
If it's the in tank pump that's shagged, a cold FIP with cold (thicker) diesel will suck the fuel through. Hot and worn FIP loses it's suck. Just a thought.
Either way you need to check the flow from the intank pump meets the required spec.
TAKdriver
Active Member
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- Beside a field in Midlothian
Has anyone tried cutting a access hole in floor to save having to remove tank ?
I've done it and I'm a numpty. If I can do it anyone can. I made up a plate to cover and can revisit tank pump any time I like.
old traveller
New Member
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- 59
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- New Forest/Bearn/Kilronan.
The one thing that has`nt been mentioned is what affected mine, was a crack in the filter housing by the seal ring. It would start OK cold but heat affected the housing and gave me trouble when hot. I knew what it was straight away because the housing on my 525TDS did exactly the same thing, allegedly caused by age but who knows.
