P38 Diesel engine mounts

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Littelwill

Littelwill

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,065
Location
Lincolnshire
Hi guys been poking around my P38 today and noticed that one of the engine mounts is fooked rubber has degraded and metal on metal just about. (Could explain vibration too?)

My question is how do I change it? It looks fairly straight forward but thought I'd see if anyone else has had to do one and if there is a good process

Thanks

W
 
Littelwill said:
Thanks Alan :) where's best to jack from and it looks like it needs to go pretty high to get the old mount out..?
:)
Click to expand...
Plank under the sump and a trolley jack is the usual method, haven't looked too closely on the P38 though.
Can't see it would have to be lifted much from memory, I'll have a look tomorrow if it will help.
 
You have a stark choice between Britpart at £10.80 each. Bearmach (possibly made by the same supplier as Britpart) at £13.00 each and Genuine Land rover at £60.00 each. Possibly at this stage of the game made by the same supplier as the previous two. Decisions, decisions. :D:D
 
Morning Alan yeah she's a diesel was going to have a go today. And wammers is there a diffrence in rubber softness on gen and Brit part mounts do you think?
 
Just to come back to this (replaced mounts a while back) if you lift the engine up with the jack with a block of wood on the sump there is just enough room to get the old mounts to come out. I found that using a pry bar to lift the engine using the mounting bracket the mounts attach to helped give that tiny bit more space to get them out. In all I think it took about an hour and a half and engine is much smoother for it. Well worth it. I went for genuine mounts to save time and money in the long run.
 
Littelwill said:
Just to come back to this (replaced mounts a while back) if you lift the engine up with the jack with a block of wood on the sump there is just enough room to get the old mounts to come out. I found that using a pry bar to lift the engine using the mounting bracket the mounts attach to helped give that tiny bit more space to get them out. In all I think it took about an hour and a half and engine is much smoother for it. Well worth it. I went for genuine mounts to save time and money in the long run.
Click to expand...

How much did you have to lift it? Does it not strain oil cooler pipes or similar? Did they just slide out sideways?
 
You have to lift it a fair way to get them out. Oil cooler pipes were ok. I lifted it as far as I dared then used a pry bar to leaver them out. When you do it you'll see what I mean.
 
Littelwill said:
You have to lift it a fair way to get them out. Oil cooler pipes were ok. I lifted it as far as I dared then used a pry bar to leaver them out. When you do it you'll see what I mean.
Click to expand...

Mine look OK but the metal rod that goes in is a bit shiny as if it has been moving around and polishing itself. I guess it will anyway as that' kind of the point but I'm trying to make my mind up my mind if the movement is excessive or not!
 
The metal rod that goes through it doesn't actually have anything to do with the vibration dampening that the mounts do. The two square rubber blocks one each end do all of that. The metal bar is there to prevent the engine leaving the mountings in a head on accident. So it's ok if that bit moves about. The rubber squares are compressed with the weight of the engine and that is where the vibrations are cushioned. Hope that helps :)
 
Littelwill said:
The metal rod that goes through it doesn't actually have anything to do with the vibration dampening that the mounts do. The two square rubber blocks one each end do all of that. The metal bar is there to prevent the engine leaving the mountings in a head on accident. So it's ok if that bit moves about. The rubber squares are compressed with the weight of the engine and that is where the vibrations are cushioned. Hope that helps :)
Click to expand...

It does! The rest looks solid!

I'll have to sort out those dash bulbs then. Been getting around to it for years!
 
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